Zoeken in blog

Foto
Categorieën
  • AFGHANISTAN (9)
  • AFRIKA (17)
  • ARABISCHE WERELD (30)
  • Articles en français (10)
  • China (55)
  • columns (14)
  • In English (10)
  • Iran (14)
  • OOST-AZIE (10)
  • PROJECTEN (0)
  • Rusland (13)
  • ZUID-AZIE (13)
  • ZUIDOOST-AZIE (7)
  • Inhoud blog
  • CHINA/ hoe de deugd werd vermoord
  • Marokko/ In de kerker van de koning
  • Gestrand in Oostende
  • 'Hij was weg, plots en voorgoed'
  • Wanneer moeders heksen en vampieren op de wereld zetten
  • Oostende, waar illegalen thuis zijn
  • 't Stad is niet van Assaad
  • Marokko/België De angst is naar hier geëxporteerd
  • BAHREIN /Jaffar al Hasabi: 'Martelen, daarin is het regime erg inventief'
  • IRAK-Regisseur Mohamed al-Daradji over de waanzin van filmen in Bagdad: van Al Qaida en bombardementen tot honderden massagraven
  • Migratie - Minderjarig en moederziel alleen in België
  • QATAR - de slaven van koning voetbal
  • CHINA - Frank Dikötter over de Grote Sprong Voorwaarts
  • NOORD-KOREA - Bovenaanzicht van de hel
  • CHINA- Ai Weiwei, de man die overal mee wegkwam
  • IVOORKUST- Alassane Ouattara, de superloodgieter
  • TUNESIE - columniste Naziha Réjiba over de Arabische Lente
  • IRAN - interview met Kader Abdolah
  • IRAK - Schrijfster Haifa Zangana: ‘Irakezen kwamen verenigd en vreedzaam op straat’
  • ARABISCHE WERELD - wat schrijfster Hanaan-as-Shaikj in 2004 over de toestand vertelde
  • Waarom het misging in de Arabische wereld
  • CHINA - Vluchtmisdrijf door zoon hoge functionaris zet land in rep en roer
  • EGYPTE
  • TUNESIE - Facebook heeft het land gered
  • TUNESIE -een gigantisch probleem van jeugdwerkloosheid
    Archief per maand
  • 10-2011
  • 09-2011
  • 08-2011
  • 07-2011
  • 06-2011
  • 05-2011
  • 04-2011
  • 03-2011
  • 02-2011
  • 01-2011
  • 12-2010
  • 11-2010
  • 10-2010
  • 09-2010
  • 08-2010
  • 06-2010
  • 05-2010
  • 04-2010
  • 03-2010
  • 02-2010
  • 01-2010
  • 12-2009
  • 11-2009
  • 10-2009
  • 09-2009
  • 08-2009
  • 07-2009
  • 06-2009
  • 05-2009
  • 04-2009
  • 03-2009
  • 02-2009
  • 01-2009
  • 12-2008
  • 08-2008
  • 03-2008
  • 01-2008
  • 03-2007
  • 01-2007
  • 10-2006
  • 06-2003
  • 02-2003
  • 09-2002
  • 07-2002
  • 06-2002
  • 12-1998
  • 10-1998
  • 09-1998
  • 04-1998
    Catherine Vuylsteke
    Stories that remain too often untold/ Histoires oubliées
    02-06-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS - Bobo Brussels
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen While the last rays of sun filter through to the square below and the market stalls pack up their unsold wares, well-to-do ladies and gents drink Italian bubbles on the pavement. They debate the best address for sushi and enthusiastically discuss the stock sale of this, that or the other fashion designer. A little further, their fellow citizens sit with laptops open. They are looking after themselves with organic apple juice while they update their Facebook pages. Welcome to Bobo Brussels, the city of bourgeois bohemians.
    Linguistically and territorially, the Bobos are divided into Dansaert Flemish and Chatelain Frenchspeakers, named after the streets where their lifestyles can be deduced from the contents of the shop windows and their prices. They are usually hard-and-fast career makers but consider themselves fundamentally alternative, green and independent. Their children have read the Little Prince by the time they’re six and they are proud of the fact they pay lots in tax, sings the French singer-songwriter Renaud with some degree of sarcasm.
    Sounds reasonable. But what I find most conspicuous is that these men and women have chosen Brussels. Carrying a degree like a free pass to another life, free of compromise, they still embraced the city, warts and all. They applauded its diversity and caressed its scars, somewhat naïve in their conviction that the love and care of deliberate civility could cure this place of all its ailments. The reality is somewhat less conducive. After small successes follow unfortunate regressions and above all, often sur place. Giving up, however, is not an option. In the meantime, they have seen their children born here, and hence also their own fate bound to that of the city.
    The Bobos persist, despite regularly banging their heads against Brussels. They see the city in their own terms: as an opportunity, a bubble of oxygen, an escape. A city of freedom too, that belongs to no one, property of neither lion nor rooster.
    These men and women found Brussels and invented her anew. As a bobbing island of youth, fantasy and diversity, in a tired nation that, on its one hundred and eightieth birthday, doubts its own right to exist. However, beyond the country, the city or its history, they also reinvented themselves here in versions that become more and more grotesque as the evening progresses and the empty wine bottles stack up.
    Some fled the whip of regional unemployment and collective depression. Others ran from the suffocation of introverted, suburban small mindedness. They have jettisoned yesterday and acquired now and later, without so much as looking over their shoulder. With great tolerance, fed by their studies, foreign friends and regular travel abroad.
    The city feels like a heavy burden at times but theirs is more resilient than others. Bobo Brussels is full of potential. It is a light version of the metropolis, one which most resembles the image depicted by the glossies, travel guides and in-flight magazines. Washed, shaven and dressed up. People explore in Mini Coopers, dine in newly opened restaurants and reside in more or less renovated merchants’ houses that were bought years ago for peanuts. It is fantastic but somehow photoshopped and reconstructed. And yet still real.

    02-06-2010 om 15:26 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    30-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS - Luxury is a burden
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    Around the same time her thin strip of bright-red lipstick comes into view, her approach is announced with a waft of perfume. Call it her shield against a merciless world.

    She looks close to ninety, according to my estimate, although her choice of wardrobe seem to be resistant to age. Spindly legs are clad in expensive, fancy stockings and pretty but slightly worn shoes. Over that, she wears classic skirts, white blouses with an upright collar, jackets from better times and antique jewellery.

    This walking anachronism would not dare leave home without a hat and at every opportunity she discretely checks to see whether the feathers or other ornaments have not been tilted out of balance. With an economy of effort, she declares she is Bruxelloise. At least, she became one. She sighs. Her heart, history and half her fortune were left behind in the St. Petersburg of nearly a century ago. With an embroidered handkerchief, she regularly dabs her eyes, subsequently reassuring herself with the aid of a mirror that her make-up has not been compromised.

    Luxury is a burden, so goes the saying. But less so, when it can stare in the face of its own downfall. The story of the Russian dame meanders from the realm of the tsars, mowed down, their blue blood flowing a deep red, to a Brussels biotope of elegant establishments and well thought out arrangements.

    Things never came good again, she proclaims in expensive French, despite the fact that she spends much of her time in the patisseries of the Sablon and the restaurants of the Avenue Louise. On rainy days she orders delicatessen and wine by telephone from the supermarket “Chez Rob”. From time to time she enjoys 17th or 18th century repertoire pieces in French at the Théâtre Royal du Parc. And weather permitting, she will buy fresh cut flowers from a florist on the Place du Chatelain. However, she is still only a countess in her own mind and in the reflections in shop windows along the Rue de Namur, where she is sometimes inclined to go shopping.

    She shakes her head. For people of social standing, these are tough times. She should know. It is an arduous task to manage the remnants of a fortune wisely and who says that the current crisis is to be the last? It is not easy to greet today’s society with a well mannered smile and at the same time distinguish friends from the endless array of opportunists. Greed, deception and envy are king. The old countess puts it gently but decisively. She tells me that some of her acquaintances leave their identity card at home when they go to a party, while others deliberately leave without money or bank cards. A question of avoiding abuse, you see. One must always be wary.

    Even though the battle has been lost, the noble lady belongs to an endangered species with frail shoulders and an even more fragile ego. They crack under the pressure of history, more so than under the weight of a family tree to which she alone ascribes distinction. Luxury is indeed a burden. To be born by such spindly legs in fancy stockings.


    30-05-2010 om 10:14 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    26-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS - Condensed Brussels
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    He calculates, door to door – from his own door in a suburb of Ghent to that of his office in the centre of Brussels – one hundred and five minutes. A daily eternity, one way. By bus to the station, train to Gent-Sint-Pieters, railway to Brussels and then metro or on foot through the streets of the city.


     Nor are they the most pleasing pavements or the most beautiful houses that greet him on the way. But rather a tired old station quarter, battered by the haste of time-conscious travellers and above all, by the megalomaniacal office buildings recently erected according to the iron-fast principle of good accessibility. Two hundred and ten lost minutes, two and a half football matches every day. ‘Oh well, it’s not so bad,’ he says. After 19 years he’s used to it. Only phenomenal delays and breakdowns in communication are enough to tip him off balance. Then he cusses and curses as the others do. ‘The train is always a bit like a holiday,’ sneers one, to which the others snigger in reply.

    At such unhappy moments, he imagines the motorways, inhabited by thousands of men and women locked inside prisons on wheels of varying grades of luxury and comfort. They get annoyed, pick their noses but don’t budge an inch.

    While the landscapes scarred by cottages and subdivided roadsides glide past the train window, he considers himself lucky. He has the time to quietly read his newspaper, to find out what’s on the box later on or just peruse the main headlines. Sometimes he runs into a familiar face in his carriage, a man or woman who would otherwise probably not strike up a spontaneous conversation about the weather, work, the kids but now feels compelled to do so.

    Door to door. He wouldn’t dream of swapping his door near Ghent for one in the capital of Europe. Not for all the money in the world. He will never love Brussels. (He hasn’t managed to in the first half of his life.) And how would he? His Brussels is a fusion of windswept rubbish, aggressive motorists and high-testosterone youth. A city of beggars who every day ask for a cigarette as soon as he exits the station looking for his lighter. He turns them down. They swear. A daily ritual. He shrugs his shoulders. Brussels is no place to hang around. He’ll soon be back on the train.

    His Brussels only exists on weekdays. It has no nights, no standing still, no enjoyment. It is condensed into a cluster of stations that are unworthy of a European capital and depressing metro stops where the aroma of Liege waffles forms a mélange with that of old urine. Ask him which of the city’s parks he likes best and he’ll reply with an empty gaze. Or take the fairytale Chinese Pavilion, the sultry greenhouse in the Botanical Gardens, the world-famous furniture of the Horta House, the fabulous view from the roof of the Musical Instrument Museum, the panoramic public life that descends from the Palace of Justice to the Marolles. These things do not even appear on the map in his head. He comes to Brussels every day but never touches it. He thinks door-to-door but the door to his heart forever remains locked tight.


    26-05-2010 om 16:35 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    22-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS - Silent Heroism
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    Trembling hands, callused and covered in sun spots. And higher up: bony shoulders, a shrunken stature. But behind that fragile façade lies hidden a silent heroism. Listen to the stories. They draw from the dark depths of child labour and sleeping on empty stomachs. Not complaining, not asking, but hanging on. Or they take root in the iron fist of dictatorship. Not speaking, not believing, but suppressing. It lasted until a chance came along. A way out, a way here. And often no way back. For a long time. Until the leaders lived no longer, until poverty threatened or until only the grave lay waiting.

    Some came to Brussels in the 1950s, the others a decade later, the last of them just yesterday. With nothing but the shirt on their backs and the dreams in their heads. Travelling on nothing but luck and worn sandals.

    The opportunity was a letter from a cousin, about excellent wages and wanted labour, in times when progress seemed unstoppable and papers didn’t mean a thing. Sometimes it was little more than a whispered rumour, a house built in the village from the ground up on overseas money. He must be doing well there, otherwise he’d never be able to build such a mansion… Someone else’s chance becomes theirs. He who dares, wins.

    For once it is the state that gives chances, that officially invites. That resettles. With people from camps and stranded political refugees, that is, after years of war and years of waiting. A new life given.

    For the children, above all, for the next generation. The present one is torn. It has had to leave its predecessor. Will I ever see you again, dearest mother? Will they come get you if they can’t find me? Will the money I send make up for my absence?

    Crushing choices, yesterday’s long shadows cast over the years to come. I couldn’t bring you with me, can you forgive me? Guilt, regret, despair. There was but one chance. My chance. Don’t complain, don’t speak, silent heroism behind a fragile façade.

    A barely audible sigh. And then gratitude towards the new homeland. For the education these men and women could often only dream of in their country of origin but can now offer their children here. For the housing, too, which they have managed to acquire with their arduous labour and humble lifestyle. And for the freedom and security of a democratic, just society. Am I from here or from there? Wings or roots? Oh, I don’t know. My country is a patchwork of memories, words and thoughts. My country is in my head.


    22-05-2010 om 00:00 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    19-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS - social passport
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    Festivities define us. As inhabitants of a country caught up in the fever of Olympic gold or as the imaginary kin of a winning national football team. As (great) grandchildren of these or any other prophets or as followers of a claimed superior religion or conviction.

    They display us as Muslims who celebrate the circumcision of their sons with festivities that will be talked about by those present forever. Or they confirm our identity as Christians who jump from fish on Fridays to Christmas turkeys, from martyrdoms to resurrections, Easter lambs and palm branches. Brussels plays host to them all. Or at least almost. It is rare for such traditions and national commemorations not to be celebrated in the city, be they joyful or solemn and in most cases based on somewhat twisted historical facts and regardless of where or when they took place.


     You would hope that festivities would bring us together, that they would transcend our race, nationality, ideology or faith. You would hope.

    What and how we celebrate, however, define us like some kind of social passport. They classify us, lead us back to a past when the idea of making up one’s own mind was yet to be invented. To our communities of origin, regardless of how enormous or how limited our present-day loyalty may be.

    Moreover, what inspires joy and affirmation in one man will not uncommonly inspire discontent in others. Listen to the petty remarks around the office about colleagues who observe Ramadan. The bad temper of temporarily abstinent smokers, the eternal fatigue, the burgeoning instances of sick leave. Ask the homosexuals who say ‘I do’ to their chosen love at the Town Hall only to be booed by narrow-minded youth just a few streets further. Consider the despair and dispossession in the Messianic churches and read the destructive sociological studies about ‘such intolerable forms of manipulation and deception’. And read the street humour: every time king football appears on the screen and monopolises the minds of millions, the hooting glory of one side ends in the sleepless frustration of the other.

    Brussels celebrates everything, come rain, hail, fog, snow or shine. We are spared no mystery. Families celebrate, clubs celebrate, neighbourhoods celebrate, communities celebrate. They mainly do it in compartments, though: alongside and gratingly against but never with one another. And often with disdain for one another. Brussels celebrates but so rarely, as in the Zinneke Parade, together. My Zinneke, your Zinneke, our Zinneke. A parade from heart to heart, through and of the city. A celebration for the Brussels of our dreams.

    19-05-2010 om 22:26 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    13-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS II - Coming and going, impossible to keep track
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    Coming and going, impossible to keep track


    Little red man. Little green man. He is obsessed with them, at least when she isn’t home. She goes to the shop, there and back: that’s four little men. To the bank: just two. To her girlfriend’s: that’s ten. He peers out of the window at the people waiting by the bus stop. His wrinkled hands tremble. In his thoughts, he is with her, amidst the unpredictability of the little man: green before you know it and red even faster.

    I see her across the road. She looks up and hesitates. She momentarily waves her walking stick in the air, and shuffles over the asphalt. Two steps of white. Two not. Concentrated, she looks at the ground and heaves herself forwards. She hasn’t realised the little man has turned red until a discotheque on wheels approaches.

    The little men are boss of the zebras. They, too, are newcomers to Brussels. There were many rats, a decent number of cats and dogs, a hamster here and there and a few goldfish that had survived the trip from the fair back home. But no zebras.

    Oh, I suppose the same goes for many things. For metro lines, skyscrapers, road rage, MP3 players, non-European languages and people, internet cafés and ironing centres. So much has come, you can’t keep track. And even more has gone.

    The Brussels of her youth became the Brussels of Europe. Appropriated. Holes appeared in the city, construction sites that swallowed up whole houses and the lives that used to inhabit them. And the things that have come in their place make no sense to her.

    The past is gone, packed up, out of reach. No little men or zebras lead there. That’s the way it is. First the lives disappear, then the memories.

    They can’t complain, she constantly tells him. But it doesn’t help. Coming and going have become a nigh impossible negotiation. In his steadily shrinking world, there is not an inch of space. No room for new words or things, or even the names of things and loves gone by. Everything shrinks, his stature as much as his future. Between the table, the sofa and the bed, he sails. His world has been reduced to just a few square metres.

    Only on Saturdays and Wednesday afternoons do they leave the house together. The taxi driver rings the bell at half past twelve without fail and they make their way to Chez Madeleine. To the past, that is, and a few familiar rituals.

    They greet the regular guests with a kiss, one by one. Even before they’ve finished their lap of honour, the dry martinis and the man’s favourite snacks are on the table. Then come the dishes of the day, the glasses of white wine, two each, and to finish: coffee and cake. On Wednesdays, they play a round of cards with old friends, on Saturdays she dances with men more steady on their feet than her husband.


     At around five o’clock, the taxi brings the tipsy couple back home. That ought to keep us going, she says in parting with the driver, who helps her husband out of the car.

    They can’t complain. Certainly not on Madeleine days and no more during the week. She says it a bit too often for his liking. She wants things he can’t do. He can rattle on a bit about his hip and his memories, about the little men, the price of things in euro and the growing insecurity on the streets.

    Things don’t get better. Sometimes it’s as if the tear-off calendar of his life has reached its last few crumpled pages but continues to hang precariously from its hook.

    Everything passes, she says with a sigh. Comes and goes. But they are happy with every day they are given. Those with and without martinis. Those with each other.

    13-05-2010 om 00:00 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    11-05-2010
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.FACING BRUSSELS
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen

    TV news shows depict a pitiful side of Brussels. Ratings axioms and mental laziness have reduced the city to a conglomeration of troubled youth, lawless murderers and trigger-happy gangsters. Now and then we see a Muslim extremist appear before the camera, sporting a Santa Claus beard, white tennis socks and a purely auxiliary person dressed in niqab.

    Oh well. What do you expect? The glorious summer terraces, the beautiful squares with benches and ancient trees, the glowing lawns of wide-spread parks, the renowned art collections and the overwhelming array of culinary delicacies from all over the world are not newsworthy anywhere else either. Those highlights of Brussels however, do explain why the city comes in fourteenth in the list of the most agreeable cities to live in. Just under Amsterdam but 18 positions higher than Paris and 24 above London. And yet, it is no easy love affair. Grim yet grand, posh yet poor, grey and green, delightful and depressing, this city is all that.

    Brussels is like a mosaic of shards of glass, each reflecting varying degrees of light, depending on how you look at it. As a tourist, commuter or resident. As homeless, aristocrat or eurocrat. Those born here look at things differently than migrants - from near and far - of first, second or third generation.

    The city is plural. My newly arrived gay Algerian boyfriend Ali lives in a different Brussels than me. He tells of the looks and insults his colourful shorts inspire in Kuregem and of the young girl next door from Liège whose smile is interpreted by neighbours as whorishness.

    This is where I want to live, he says, while watching the pedestrians on the zebra crossing in Ma Campagne in Elsene. Teenage girls in hot pants and brightly coloured stockings discuss recent conversations with lovers, an African grandmother shuffles laboriously across the street and the owner of an alternative restaurant is flirting with a friend.

    This new Bruxellois describes his city as an archipelago, a cluster of island communities surrounded by lots of water but few bridges. I try to explain that his judgement is too hard, too quick, too simple. I recount the story of an 11 year old adopted Haitian girl. She followed a week-long course on the outskirts of Brussels. Only on the second last day, she assured us, did the group of otherwise entirely white people treat her normally. In my Brussels, she claimed with absolute certainty, such things do not happen. There, they know that black is not the colour of your heart.

    Her Brussels is mine. The city that is and the city that becomes. The city made by mothers and fathers, grandmothers and grandfathers, teachers, rubbish collectors, tram, bus and metro drivers, citizens and people without papers. With ourpoverty, our blindness, our arrogance, our tyranny. And with the opposite of all this.


    11-05-2010 om 22:26 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    24-01-2009
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.Being gay in Morocco - the englis translation of a chapter of my book 'Amongst men'
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen
    Chapter 9 Between God and Paid Sex

    Sexuality is often used to determine where civilisation begins and ends, and for homosexuality that cuts both ways.

    (Robert Aldrich (Ed) From All Times, In All Cultures, 2006).

    Marrakech's new district of Guéliz is all but deserted just after sundown. The shops are closed, the only passers-by are tourists. After fourteen hours of Ramandan-fasting the ftour has finally arrived. The whole city is hunched over dishes of dates and bowls of harira, devouring hard-boiled eggs, plates of bread and cakes dripping with honey. The country’s dietary experts might very well warn of the digestive problems that a third of those fasting face, it's to no avail. “What should be an exercise in piety and sobriety,” complains one doctor on his website, “has in practice degenerated into a phenomenon of sleepless nights of partying and excessive eating that can seriously engender people’s health”.
    It makes me think of Abdelhak Serhane’s famous first novel Messaouda, in which he virulently criticises the collective devotion of the ninth month (of the Muslim year). He sees it as a charade - the communal aspect and the mandatory abstinence from eating, drinking, smoking and sex have no fundamental content or impact. “After the month of Ramadan, piety once again takes leave of absence. The whore Messaouda returns and the men once again devote more time to their organs than to their children. He becomes deaf and dumb and His holy word is once again stashed away with the prayer mat and prayer cap”.

    My atheist friend Jamal (33) has invited me to his tasteful apartment for his version of the ftour. The uncorked bottle of red Boulaouane is on the living-room table next to an ashtray and two recently dried wine glasses. Here, drinking is all about anticipation, since the sale of alcohol is forbiddenfrom the month before the start of the fasting.
    Jamal has brought in a nice little supply and he wasn’t the only one. “I’m convinced”, he says, whilst taking stock of the wine, “that the Assima warehouse does record business in the eighth month, almost exclusively due to the astronomical increase in alcohol sales. You should look into it some time”.
    Jamal, who graduated in medicine in France, fills up the glasses and lights a cigarette. He sighs, he never thought of establishing himself in Paris. He is at home in Marrakech, although the hypocrisy and schizophrenia that characterise this society are increasingly repugnant to him. “You would think that you would get used to it, and that probably also goes for the majority of my compatriots. They don’t have my exceptionally liberal parents, followers of Descartes who believe in sincerity and principles. Quite simply, most Moroccans have been forced into the shackles of conformity since childhood and rarely ask any questions”.
    The young doctor empties his glass and serves himself again. He is clearly getting into his stride. “Believe me, this country is ripe for collective psychoanalysis, it's a pity we don't have enough experts. Until recently, one couldn't study psychology or psychiatry. King Hassan II really didn’t like shrinks. During his rule there was no room for truth and real feelings. Terror and silence reigned supreme”.
    “I swear that if I were the Minister of Health, I would start straight away with the schools. One afternoon on the psychiatrist’s sofa would be made obligatory for all students. It’s a truly revolutionary thought, but I like it”.
    Whilst Jamal gets lost in contemplation about the abject mental health of the Moroccan psyche, my mobile phone rings. The young man who will shortly be waiting for me at the train station wants to know whether I have forgotten about our meeting.
    His text message is exceptional. Generally, I’m the one who has to remind my promised interlocutor about our appointment half an hour after it was supposed to have started. However, this man doesn’t seem to be taking any risks. Despite my confirmatory answer, he sends several more text messages. “You are already a minute late”, runs the last one, “you are still coming, aren’t you”?

    In front of the run-down train station, there is a somewhat loutish young man, looking conspicuous in a brand-new G-Star shirt. He keeps on pushing his glasses up and just above his slightly feminine mouth beads of sweat are starting to form. They are attributes of his nervous, insecure nature rather than a result of the already much more bearable heat. “Let’s go, I don’t like to be seen on the street with a foreigner. That could give wrong ideas - people like to talk, you know”.
    Finally, he manages to flag down a rare taxi that will take us to a recently built block of flats a few streets further on, where his parents, who live on the coast, bought an apartment for their children in school.
    I ask whether he would like to choose a name. The student in engineering looks shocked. How could he have forgotten this. The peace that he had gradually rediscovered on his way back to his trusted living room is suddenly replaced again with anxiety. He asks for time to think, he doesn’t want to come across as just any old mug.
    It will take until the end of the evening before he even comes back to the question. “The name”, he suddenly says softly. “Call me Saâda, Arabic for everything that I have never had but which I’ve always yearned after terribly – happiness”. Simple human happiness.
    “Maybe this can be the start”. Saâda looks at me with hope in his eyes.
    As I listen to his life’s story, I realise that he actually had ample choice for a name. He could just as well have opted for the Arabic translation of Friendship, Trust or Warmth, or even for any of the fifty Arab nouns for Love. From the unstained Mahabba to the passion of Jawa, all are foreign territory for Saâda.
    This young man with his soft, insecure look is the second of four children. He worships his one-and-half-year older sister, even to the point that he followed her in her choice of study. “No-one is as intelligent, modest, studious and kind-hearted as she is”. At the moment, she’s studying in Rabat and I miss her terribly, but she’s working for her future and I understand that”.
    He can't explain why, and God knows how long he fretted about it, but Saâda has always had a problem with boys and football. As a toddler, he was inseparable from his mother, later he was fascinated with the games that the girls from the neighbourhood played. He loved their calm, civilised interaction, which stood in stark contrast to the manners of the boys on their respective stomping grounds. By some distance, Saâda chose the girls’ shady inner court, protected from violence and obscenities, over the lewd as well as unsafe, scorching hot pavements of the boys.
    He says that he wants to show me something and cautiously opens the large orange folder that is lying on the corner of the living-room table, nicely arranged behind the serviettes, glasses and bottles of fruit juice and mineral water.
    There are quite a few small, numbered scripts with smooth, laminated covers. They seem to be perfectly devoid of human weakness. Not a single imperfection disfigures the modest threading together of Arabic words. On page after page, the structured, orderly world of Saâda’s childhood secrets is revealed. It contains poems and self-composed songs, images of bears and boy scouts.
    “Nice, aren’t they?” He says it with the earnestness of a child, as if hoping for praise for the idealised and chaste creatures that he so carefully cut out of magazines and whose shiny surface he stroked with his fingers on numerous occasions. They were his best friends, he says quietly.
    “I was eight years old when I began this”. Saâda points to a carefully aligned little story next to a pretty stamp that he patiently steamed off a letter. “I’ve always had the feeling that unwritten reams of paper were waiting for my words. They seemed to be encouraging me to trust them, to pour out my heart. Above all, they were important during the terrible years at the boys’ grammar school”.

    Saâda stands up and runs to the window. “I would really like to sincerely thank you. You don’t understand what it means to be able to talk nor how much I need your undivided attention. You know, I generally try to forget those years, the numerous beatings, the violence I was systematically subjected to. Me, a perfectly innocent child. Or should I consider it a crime that I loved to study, admired the teachers and earned their respect by generally turning in my homework flawlessly. Did I deserve  to be spat on and booed at repeatedly, just because I refused to cut school and often tried to prepare the following day’s exercises at home? You see, my sister did exactly the same, how come she received prizes and praise, whilst my only reward was punches and curses?”
    “I often complained to my mother about it. She said she didn’t have  time for an appointment with the headmaster and that I should try not to provoke my classmates. But tell me, why is bragging about lewd escapades greeted with sympathy, whilst the sincere, eagerness to learn of a shy, earnest boy like me generates feelings of hate and hostility?”
    “I sometimes think that I had to be like that, that God wanted to test me and that in this manner He wanted to show me the Light of the Right Way. It is in my suffering that I found Him. He and He alone helped me, gave me the strength to offer my head to the tyranny of my classmates. He who knows everything, sees everything, understands my sadness, He who gives us life and takes care of our parents, He who created all the good in the world, He who taught me to pray, to turn to Him in moments of desperation, to kneel. It was prayers that calmed and soothed me; they were the ointment for my wounds, then and every day since”.
    Saâda shows me the diaries from when he was fifteen. Pictures of the Saudi Arabian Medina and a faded photo of a popular Egyptian preacher whose Islamic ideas exerted extreme influence on this young spirit.  
    The scripts, to which he entrusted the stirrings of his soul on a daily basis, follow one after the other. Along the way, the Islamic symbols make way for stickers of footballers, mainly of young men celebrating, with their shirts in one hand and the cup in the other.
    Saâda says that I am his psychiatrist and that it’s not easy to talk, but that he is convinced that he has to do it. With a somewhat dreamy look in his eyes, he stares at the naked torsos of the football stars, his fingers stroking each photo. “I was about sixteen”, he begins, “when I caught myself being attracted to men’s bodies”.
    The image in his head is that of an Egyptian film on TV with his mother and sister sat next to him on the sofa. They’re commenting on the actors. Just look at his eyes. And the mouth, Mama, I hope I get onto the marriage boat with a man like that. His sister excitedly grabbed her mother’s hand. They were laughing hysterically, allies sharing a common guilt. They had absolutely no idea what was happening a few centimetres further down the sofa. They were so taken up with their own hormones that they didn’t notice how the boy next to them was seizing up.
    Saâda remembers the warm glow that moved through his body and the confusing combination of delight and panic which overtook him when watching the bathroom scene with the crooning protagonist shaving, naked from the waist up. He became infatuated with the sensual lines of the protagonist’s delta muscles, intermittently taut and supple, from top to toe, under an olive-coloured shiny skin.
    Whilst the shaving knife went up and down, Saâda began to feel unwell, victim of a chemical process that he had never experienced before.
    “I asked them to change channel with the argument that we really didn’t need to watch such frivolous entertainment”. Both his mother and sister protested – they thought that he was being ridiculous and sent him to his room to study. However, the images were irresistible and the boy was unable to get up and leave the room. He felt his blood pounding and remembers to this day how fervently he called out to the Lord that evening.
    It didn’t help – on the contrary. Barely a week later, alone at home and in front of the TV, Saâda is watching an Arte documentary on the making of homoerotic films. He can’t believe his eyes. What he assumed that only he thought about in the darkest recesses of his heart was unfolding in reality, shamelessly, almost endlessly, and what’s more, under the watchful eye of a camera that didn’t eschew a single physical sensation. Initially, Saâda was horrified and wanted to switch the TV off, but the warm sensation in his loins and the singing in his heart prevented him from doing so. As a result, the boy locked the door and burned the succession of images into his memory.
    Even during the closing credits, he sat mesmerised in front of the screen, which is when he discovered the ‘www-way’, access to the Internet of hidden desires, with a name of a site. “Something to do with ‘gay’, I don’t recall exactly anymore, but I used to think that it was just the English word for boy”.
    “The Arte documentary, broadcast in the autumn of 2003, was the ‘9/11’ of my youth. I knew straight away that nothing would ever be the same again”.
    For a whole year, Saâda daily visited an Internet café, relentlessly Googling all possible combinations with the word gay, thus becoming infatuated with the photos that left little to the imagination and even finding a few sites that contained free films. At the same time he grew more and more afraid of being discovered and so painstakingly erased all traces of the sites which had him dreaming all day. Still, the yearning  got the better of the feelings of fear and guilt that kept him awake at night. Or at least, that’s how it was initially.
    “If I could”, he sighs, “I would cut that year out of my life to rid myself of the shame attached to it”. The virtual reality had completely colonised Saâda’s spirit. It had succeeded in eliminating the studious boy who for years had stowed away the gaping void of loneliness with facts plucked from Al Jazeera, maths tables and certainties from the world of physics. With a simple click, Saâda had been reduced to a character in a pornographic game.
    He looks at me and sighs. “Time and time again I asked God for redemption, but increasingly my prayers ended in tears”. He understood that the Almighty wanted to test him, to sharpen his faith and to arm him against sin, but the ever-cerebral young man was paralysed. The seed of his youth and of his betrayal had dishonoured his prayer mat. Broken promises had destroyed it, the mouse mat had conquered the prayer mat. “I was unworthy of the Merciful Lord and on certain days that knowledge made it impossible for me to pray”.

    He lays his glasses on the table, rubs his eyes and remains sat down with his back bent. A pious young man’s version of capitulation. “The worst of it”, he says softly, “is that I became a zamel, a filthy homosexual, in the way people around here understand it. A good-for-nothing, a sex maniac who lays his hands on the first body offered to him. I couldn’t look at myself in the mirror anymore”.
    Dark days and even darker nights, the equally satanic and non-erasable 2004 was the last year that Saâda would spend in his place of birth. In the meantime, he came to Marrakech, a city of ochre, liberation and MSN. Marrakech turned the zamel back into a young man, a soul yearning for words, friendship, understanding and affection.
    There was as a click of the mouse that differed very little from the previous one. And yet, the first click took the young man to worlds of porn and desperation, whereas the second one brought him to two French homosexuals – to Anthony from Marseilles and next to Arnaud, a Parisian.
    You could call the latter his guru. In slightly less than a year of almost daily chatting, Arnaud ordained his Moroccan friend in the secrets of love between men. He shared his experiences and feelings with Saâda and taught him to talk about desire and tenderness. At nineteen to the dozen, he told him about the discussion in French society about homosexuality and about the theories on the Oedipus complex. Arnaud spoke about homoerotic books and films, about cafés, bars and annual gay processions in the capital cities of Europe. In an almost jaunty tone, he described his coming-out to his parents and teachers and the success of their process of acceptance didn’t even seem to surprise him.
    They were more or less the same age, but the distance between their worlds was greater than the 2,130 kilometres, as the bird flies, which separated them. Saâda knew that he could never bridge that distance, but the knowledge that Arnaud’s world existed changed him completely.Initially, Arnaud’s jauntiness and carefree attitude took him completely by surprise and his tales went completely over and beyond Saâda’s comprehension, although he tried to not let it show. For a while, he even thought that Arnaud was making them up to cheer him up.  Later, they even laughed about this together. Gradually, the young Frenchman became the centre of Saâda’s life and his improbable self-confidence even began to rub off on him.

    It’s thanks to Arnaud that Saâda existed, that he was able to invent himself as a young homosexual man. The almost graduated Frenchman gave him the courage, understanding and virtuous words that were meant to protect him against the vitriol that would always be his lot in Moroccan society.
    Arnaud and Saâda were friends and became lovers, virtually at least, and verbally. “We were hatching plans to meet up. Arnaud had been to Marrakech once, had liked it and the prospect of being able to come and visit me made him very happy.
    Saâda was imagining how he would receive Arnaud in this apartment, what he would cook for him and how he would make love with him. For the first time in his life, his lips would touch another’s and his hands would be able to survey every centimetre of his lover’s body. There were just another three or four months to wait, an eternity for someone as impatient as Arnaud but barely more than a second for those such as Saâda, who have been waiting their whole life. “Arnaud would be my first lover - that was my most fervent wish”.
    A shadow of immense sadness comes over Saâda’s face. He gets up, turns the already barely audible Mozart off and sorts the scripts with the orange cover by date. There is a heavy silence in the air and I deduce that Arnaud never came.
    Saâda admits it can be read in different ways.  He mutters that two terrible things happened on that bright January day in 2006.  It was early evening, when, by digital processes he couldn’t comprehend, he lost Arnaud from his MSN friend list for good.  Within a few hours, whilst looking for a diversion in Jamaa el-Fna square, a pick-pocket made off with his mobile phone and with it the only chance he had left of contacting Arnaud again – his phone number. “My whole world collapsed that evening”.
    For days on end, Saâda tried in vain to get back in touch with his friend. He attempted all possible alphanumerical combinations of his e-mail address, launched SOS calls on other sites and dialled untold numbers with the few digits that he still remembered from his previous phone call with Arnaud.
    “I knew that it was pointless”. His mouth twists into a bitter shape. He sits down and stares at his hands. “It was a punishment from God. He, and He alone, knew my sinful intentions. He wanted to lead me back to the righteous path, I’m convinced of that.”
    History was more or less repeating itself. It went from the mouse mat back to the prayer mat, from a world of nimble happiness to one of unbearable guilt. Arnaud was reduced to a cyber mirage and with him disappeared the ideals that they had so lovingly nurtured together.
    Saâda began frequenting the mosque again. He prayed to God for forgiveness, he begged and cried, but something had changed. However unreachable Arnaud had become, he existed and his legacy couldn’t be erased. The question wasn’t whether Saâda would return to the Internet café, but when.
    He believes that he stayed away for about three months, but he had to go back. To live, to fill the void that Arnaud had left behind, even if he knew he was just indulging in pure hallucination.
    Saâda then discovered the Moroccan gay sites. He chatted with a man who immediately set up a meet as soon as he discovered that Saâda had his own apartment.
    By the following afternoon, they had already met in the park next to the petrol station. After about five minutes, the man asked whether he had any condoms, he was in a rush and was hoping that Saâda didn’t live too far away. Without further ado, they went upstairs. Next, the man wanted to know where the bathroom was, gesticulating to the shy virgin that he should already get undressed.
    Saâda says that he can still remember a few seconds of the encounter, despite himself, as he would actually prefer to erase it from his memory. He knows that the alarm bells starting ringing in his head as soon as they went into the apartment, but his voice failed him. Mainly, he knew that it was too late. He heard the toilet being flushed and saw the man coming into the bedroom. “It was awful - bestial actually”.

    For years, Saâda had dreamed of the Act, he had imagined caresses like the ones Arnaud had promised him and remembered those from the gay porn he had seen in cyberspace. He had hoped for gentle strokes, tenderness and passion. He had called to mind all kinds of scenarios, but he hadn’t thought of the few words with which the
    Act starts and which said everything. “Turn around”. Even if it had sounded less like an order, Saâda wouldn’t have dared to put up any resistance. He felt a wave of panic rushing through his body and closed his eyes.
    It didn’t last more than a few minutes. Saâda remembers the man’s shouts and how he then disappeared to the bathroom and mumbled something by way of saying goodbye.  The door closed and a feeling of immediate sadness took over him. He thought of Arnaud and cried all afternoon. He felt like a girl who had been raped by a macho brute of man. He says that he doubts whether the man was gay. In any case, he was only interested in sex.
    That evening he returned to the mosque again. He promised God that this would be the last time. Saâda sighs and shakes his head. “I don’t understand”. He doesn’t know what, barely a week later, took him back to the Internet café, and much less why he invited a man from Rabat to spend that very night with him. He went to pick him up at the station at five past ten and brought him the following morning for the seven o’clock train. “He was handsome and friendly”, Saâda thinks, “but he immediately made it clear during the chatting that he only wanted sex and no relationship.” He heard himself lying to the man that it wasn’t a problem and that he was also only interested in a fling. He thought of Arnaud, of the Paris in his imagination and of the words that they would one day whisper to each other.

    In the ensuing months, he concentrated on his studies and went home for the summer holidays and only returned to Marrakech at the start of autumn. He had undertaken to avoid the cybercafé, but even before the first week was over, he had already arranged to meet someone from one of the city’s outlying districts.
    The man in question was a singer of popular songs who supplemented his less than royal salary by walking the streets. He didn’t beat around the bush – for less than ten euros, he would be Saâda’s, if need be for the whole night. It was the end of the month, a student couldn’t spare that kind of money. The singer was an understanding man, he would even come along for less than half the amount. “It might perhaps sound pathetic, but how can you feel happy when paying for sex? However, this was my only positive experience, Ismaël being the first and only man to give me a good feeling. I felt complete in his arms”.
    A while later, they happened to bump into each other. Saâda asked whether the singer felt like coming to visit him. Ismaël really wanted to and even said that he loved him. They were all-too-cheap and rash words, they defiled love in Saâda’s eyes and he had scornfully asked the singer whether from now on he would do it with him for free or whether he was merely using a ruse to guarantee himself a fixed customer. Ismaël became angry and walked away.
    Saâda stares out in front of him. He says that a man like himself can only find sex in Morocco but not love.

    I can’t help thinking of my friend Jamal, who, just as I was about to leave, said that I should enquire as to Saâda’s voting behaviour in the parliamentary elections which took place at the beginning of September 2007. “Only 1 out of 3 people eligible to vote actually exercised their democratic right”, he said. “That’s how little people here expect from parliamentary delegates. And you can’t blame them. The King is so mighty that he has nothing to fear from elections”.
    Saâda cast his vote on the first Friday of the month. He voted for the Islamic Party of Justice and Development (PJD), a political entity that would actually prefer to see people of his sexual orientation stoned to death, such as the sharia foresees for recidivists. “Oh, I just voted for a woman that I know”, is how he initially defends his choice. “She’s very dynamic and sincere, not just another complacent kleptomaniac like most of the representatives in this country”.
    I argue that individual kind-heartedness and incorruptibility can achieve little in parliament, that it’s all to do with the dynamics of a group and with political ideas that are defended or rejected. A party like the PJD will never stand up for Saâda’s interests, on the contrary. Women striving for emancipation and parity can also expect little from its Islamic social project. I ask whether it is fair that daughters inherit 50% less than sons, whether women who do not wear the veil really want to be raped on the spot - and what must his own life be like under an Islamic regime?
    At that moment, something inexplicable happens. Even before I have finished speaking, our relationship has broken down. The timid young man who, for the last five hours, has considered me an ally, who took me to never-before-visited places in  his soul and who for the first time in his own house was able to formulate the unspeakable in words and sentences, has gone. The fragile boy who seemed to exist only in fear, uncertainty, doubts and guilt and whose dreams hadn’t yet definitely been written off as unrealistic, has also disappeared.
    The man now sitting in front of me has a callous expression on his face. He has straightened his back, lifted his chin. The tone and rhythm of his voice have changed, his words those of a stranger and of God. He is blind, deaf and impervious. The boy has become a man who has become a robot. At most, 55 kilos of skin, hair, flesh and bone, but twenty tonnes of Koran assurance.
    He looks at me hard. He tells me straight off that I’ve understood nothing. Islam, for him, is not a system of values, it is not morality you choose from a menu, nor is it a cerebral function which can be switched on or off depending on the circumstances.  This person that I no longer know says that he lives in Islam. For an eternity. God doesn’t need him, but he needs Him. Without Him he is nothing.
    I often wondered about it later on, but can’t for the life of me work out why, at that moment, he brought up the cartoons in a Danish newspaper, those caricatures with the Prophet as the protagonist. “Hundreds of thousands of people across the world took to the streets”, he says, “men, women, even children. At one with the Lord, they expressed their indignation. They didn’t allow themselves to be put down, not then, not ever”.
    The water between us is getting ever deeper. “What really amazes me”, I answer, “is that acts of cruelty in the world, from Darfur to Burma via Sri Lanka, have never got the masses out of their seats”. I say that I can’t understand what a possibly offensive cartoon means in comparison to the death of unnamed innocent people, of someone’s children, someone’s mother and father, someone’s uncle, aunt, nephews or nieces, someone’s friends, someone’s loved ones.
    He doesn’t let me finish my sentence and repeats that I don’t understand anything. How can I compare mere mortals with the Prophet who mediates with God on the admission into heaven of believers such as himself? “I would do anything for the Prophet. I would give my life”.
    Shouted words, shocked silence. I can’t help thinking of Jamal, of the schizophrenia which he so loves to hate and of my role as an untrained on-the-spot psychologist.
    Is there a place in heaven for Saâda? Will the pearly gates be opened for homosexuals? He roars that he has always been a normal person in every respect, except for one, the sexual deviation which he suffers from. It’s an illness, an ordeal. He will however overcome this obstacle with the strength that God will give him. There is no doubt in his mind that he will go through life as a normal, worthy person.
    It’s already way past midnight. He accompanies me downstairs and hails a taxi. Saâda seems to have returned. He says that he is sorry and asks whether I can forgive him. “You’ve meant a lot to me”.

    24-01-2009 om 00:00 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    07-03-2007
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.China - The people's republic of Desire
    Klik op de afbeelding om de link te volgen Between October 2005 and May 2006 De Morgen-journalist and sinologist Catherine Vuylsteke made three journeys throughout China accompanied by photographers Dieter Telemans, Tim Dirven and Jimmy Kets. They visited elderly peasants in their emptying villages in western China and accompanied rural migrants on their train journey to a better life. In Kunming they talked with pimps and prostitutes, in Shanghai with the newly rich and in Beijing and Chongqing with impoverished city dwellers. Their findings first appeared in the newspaper De Morgen and were published in book form on 1 March 2007 by Meulenhoff/Manteau.

    07-03-2007 om 00:00 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English
    15-01-2007
    Klik hier om een link te hebben waarmee u dit artikel later terug kunt lezen.China - What happens to the children of long term convicts in China?
    Innocence murdered

    It’s a misty Wednesday morning - or is it the smog playing tricks? In the hills around the old Chinese imperial capital of Xi’an, at the entrance to the hamlet of Milu, lies the Children’s Village. A series of houses is visible from behind the green iron gates. The vegetable gardens that surround them are dead and frozen at this time of the year. A dirt track goes past latrines with plastic-coated walls to a boiler room, a canteen and four identical bungalows that have recently been built with funds received from western companies and embassies.

    Inside are a barely heated living room, two dorms for up to twenty kids, a laundry room and toilets that can only be used at night, and a small room for the live-in care provider.

    Seventy-six children have found a new home here.

    Children’s Village is a strange world, as layered as an onion. From the outside, it resembles an ordinary Chinese school, ringing out with careless laughter and quarrelling voices in equal measure. I hear girls getting worked up about a hairpin and boys screaming in an dispute over the ownership of a football.

    Beneath all of this are the hushed-up stories of the adults that work here, tragic tales of mothers that were taken away in shackles, of women that simply disappeared when their husbands were put behind bars or of others that made their children witness horror scenes, condemning them to endless nightmares or incurable bed-wetting.

    Blood, violence and, in most cases, guilt have a stranglehold on these lives. Some people became transfixed on images of blunt axes, of kitchen knives in the hands of the desperate or of bowls of rice laced with rat poison. Others on the sight of unrecognisable family members - drunk, enraged, crying madly or having become motionless, stiff and cold.

    The inner layers are only rarely visible and even then only for those in whom the children confide. They consist of silence, sorrow, anger and an utter sense of incomprehension. In short, they are made up of all those things for which kids often don’t have words and for which Chinese adults usually don’t want to provide them any. For they are not convinced of the nurturing effect of balancing dangerously above the gutter of the past in an often futile attempt to understand. Bie ku, guoqu jiu guoqu ba, is their mantra. Don’t cry, let bygones be bygones.

    Children’s Village came into being about ten years ago at the behest of a few judges that first dispensed with the lives of men and women that were deemed incorrigible or unforgivable, only to find themselves stuck with the orphans they left behind. For the first time, boys and girls, whose future became uncertain after their past was executed, did not end up on the streets but in mini-institutions. Four in total, with fifty kids in each of them. Only the mercy of the judges didn’t last - three years after their creation, three of these centres had been closed down, leaving the last one all but doomed.

    It is Big Brother Koen, as the kids call the equally idealistic and cuddly Belgian who works here, who saved the place. If you’d ask the eight-year-old Guo Lin, she’d attribute that miracle to Guanyin, the goddess of mercy that she always carries in her trouser pockets, but actually it was sometime during 1999 that western friends of the then NGO-worker Koen Sevenants enquired if he had any idea on what they could spend a remaining budget of 15,000 euros. He thought that money had to benefit the most needy, those that society and the state had spat out and removed from view. “If you realise that one in six of the nine million people that are behind bars worldwide are Chinese and that, according to figures provided by Amnesty International, 3,797 people were executed in China in 2005, then you get an idea of how many children are serving their own terms here”.

    A lot had to be done. The basic needs of the children were barely taken care of, most of them didn’t have legal papers, which for example made it very difficult to go to school. Visiting mum or dad in prison rarely happened and there was no psychological counselling to speak of. Sevenants confirms: “We worked very hard and are proud of what we achieved. And what’s more, Morning Tears, as we’ve called our organisation, aims to become an international organisation consisting of and serving the children of long-term prisoners and executed people. We don’t just want to provide charity - these forgotten youngsters must be put on the agenda worldwide so as to force governments to assume their responsibilities.

    It wasn’t easy. Sevenants explains that at one stage in 2003 he had wanted to give up completely because emotionally he couldn’t handle it anymore. “Sometimes you have to turn kids away. You see, we only have a limited capability and there are at least two hundred children of some one thousand female prisoners in Xi’an who urgently need shelter. That makes for some hard choices and, on top of that, success is not immediately guaranteed. One of the very experienced workers of Children’s Village once told me that she was sure that one third of the children would make it, another third could turn out fine provided adequate support was given and that the last third was lost. She might have exaggerated a bit but I don’t think she was entirely wrong”.

    International research comes up with similar conclusions. The chance that children of prisoners end up behind bars themselves is six times higher than with ‘ordinary’ kids and they are also much more likely to suffer mentally”.

    Yet Sevenants was unable to quit. “I couldn’t leave those children behind, children with whom I had spent so much time. I had to see them grow up”, he concedes with a smile. In the meantime, he redoubled his efforts to find donors amongst companies and he even managed to convince the governments of two Belgian provinces to commit to this project on a long-term basis.

    At the same time, he established confidential ties with the Chinese government that would enable him to launch three more pilot projects with youngsters.

    Forty euros a month
    Miss Fang (50) hangs up the laundry next to bungalow number three, where she lives with some fourteen boys and girls of between three-and-a-half and seventeen years old. Her life isn’t easy. She earns less than forty euros a month, can only visit her husband and daughter every other weekend and isn’t entitled to any form of entertainment. Fang took up this job four years ago, when the state factory, where she had worked for decades, closed its doors.

    Seeing her busy with the clothes pegs makes me think of what Zhang, the institution’s accountant, had said hours before. She didn’t make much of a fuss about it, but claimed that only those who can’t find other jobs are willing to work here. “Older workers that were laid off or pensioners with not much to do, like me”, she said.

    Fang says she’s very happy with her job. “The love that the children give me is invaluable”, she says shyly. “Moreover, they badly need our attention and understanding. A normal person can scarcely imagine what these boys and girls have been through, often at a very early age. They don’t speak about it, but you cannot escape from the past. I remember that time when the older boys had been playing with red paint in the old building where we used to live. Seeing the red marks on the wall, one of the children fainted. She can’t stand the image of blood anymore. It reminds her of that evening, when her mum hacked her father to death and made her hold the bucket to collect the blood. The woman was executed by firing squad but her daughter’s nightmare continues”.

    When they first get here, most children are very anxious but in the end they get to like this place more than their own family. Fang: “When I recently punished a thirteen-year-old girl who has been here for three years now, she said she didn’t mind. “At least you scold me for a reason, she explained, at home I used to be punished all the time without anyone ever explaining what was wrong. You know, Auntie”, she continued, ”I prefer this place a million times more than my own home. I never want to leave you again”.

    “We also notice during prison visits. Some children don’t look at their parents, they don’t even answer their questions. They are consumed by feelings of hatred, towards those they hold responsible for ruining their lives. Those moments are very painful, especially if you take into account that for most of those detainees a visit of fifteen minutes three or four times a year is all they get”.

    “Others are very fond of their mum or dad who is behind bars. They give them drawings and as soon as they hear that a visit is being arranged, they start saving up the desserts or cookies that they get, as these will make a nice present”.

    The first children have come back from school. They say hello politely and take a good look at us newcomers. Finally, the most daring member of the group asks where we come from, which makes the others laugh nervously. “They must be from Belgium, just like Big Brother Koen”.

    They put their schoolbags in their rooms but keep their coats on all day. There is no heating in the village primary school. Although it’s freezing cold, windows and doors are open all day, birds fly through the class rooms and even at the centre it’s really icy in the dorms and the canteen. “Auntie, don’t you have long underwear?” a boy asks me later in the day, when he sees me glued to the only heater that works in the canteen. I say I do and show him the three layers of clothing that have to protect me against the cold. He shrugs and says that I’ll get used to it.

    After lunch, the girls jump up and down with an elastic thread while the boys play football. “Will you join us?” An enterprising girl with two ponytails takes my hand and smiles. It will be the first of many games that we teach each other. Kids’ songs from Holland, 'telephone', puzzles and many finger games fill the spare hours that we spend together over the next few days.

    The girls definitely prefer ‘Big Bad Wolf’, in which I play the part of the dangerous, growling animal that devours one screaming kid after the other, while the others run about wildly, trying to avoid being captured.

    I want the children to talk about themselves but as soon as I enquire about the pros and cons of living at this centre, I get nothing more than silence, alarmed glances and a most dismissive body language. And indeed, why would they confide in me?

    Days go by. I have been promoted to be the platter of many a girl’s hair, I teach most of them how to do wheelbarrow races and establish a firm reputation as one who will forever suffer from the cold and the most relentless hunter of all Big Bad Wolves.
    “Will you be here tomorrow?”, has become the standard phrase with which each night-time departure ends. “And the day after tomorrow? And when you’re back in Belgium, will you forget us or will you come to see us again?”

    Guo Lin (8), a girl from a poor farming family in the nearby Gansu Province, whose mother disappeared after her father was sentenced to twelve years for armed robbery, insists most of all. “At what time will you arrive?”, she wants to know, while her fingers explore my hand, as if they were some big insect. “If you leave on Monday, how long will it be before you’re back? This summer? I’m supposed to go and see my Aunt for a couple of days then, but if I know that you’re coming, I won’t go”. Guo Lin laughs, she’s gauging my reaction. “The only person that has ever been so sweet to me as you have been”, she says on the last day, “was my grandmother. You know, it wasn’t that nice at home”.

    The child of a prisoner herself
    There are few other confidentialities. But then, what should you expect from boys and girls that have yet to learn their times tables? Still, at times, stories surface unexpectedly. At least, that’s how it went with Kou Wei, Sevenants’ English interpreter, whose commitment to Morning Tears is even more radical than his. He says she’s never revealed her past to anyone, except to him, that is, and now to me. “I never thought I’d get so involved in this project”, says a visibly nervous Kou Wei, while she sips soothing chrysanthemum tea. “At least, not before I became the child of a prisoner myself”.

    She’s not too sure where to start. “Maybe it would be a good idea to summarise my youth for you. It was an era of constant fear, ever unexpected blows and never-ending nightmares. I don’t think my father was ever nice to me or to my mother. We only had peace of mind when he was out”.
    The outside world knew him as a quiet, friendly policeman. And as the worthy son of his father, the party secretary in our district capital”. Only their neighbours and relatives ever saw his true face. For those that lived nearby, it revealed itself in the all too frequent, desperate cries of Kou and her mother, while the members of the family got to see the bruises with which their bodies were more often than not covered. “As soon as he started picking a fight, I ran off to the neighbours. During all of my childhood, I found comfort in the arms of the woman next door. But she couldn’t help me. I’m sure you know the Chinese saying. It is better, it goes, to destroy ten temples than to tear apart one family. She used to say that it would pass and that shit happens. It is our fate”.

    But Kou’s mother, a doctor, wasn’t willing to take it lying down. She filed many complaints at the local police station and repeatedly turned to the People’s Court to request a divorce. “That only made his anger worse”, says Kou. “My grandfather, whom you could easily compare to the Almighty, was always informed straight away and for him such a disgrace was utterly unthinkable in a family like ours.
    Kou’s words get stuck in her throat. “You know, my mother was really a good wife, although she had a very demanding job. She cooked my father’s meals every day and kept the apartment very tidy. I am convinced that my father’s rage had to do with something else, with his unfulfilled dream: he wanted a son, you see, not a daughter like me”.

    I can tell that she considers it as being her fault. “I should have protected my mother much better, only I didn’t know how. After I’d left to study English at the university in Xi’an, I often lay awake all night. What would he do to her? Before I left, I had made her promise that she’d wait for me. As soon as I graduated, I would take up a well-paid job in Beijing and then we’d live together. But it wasn’t meant to be”.

    The nineteen-year-old Kou was in the third year of university when the call came from her best friend. Could she come home? He had to talk to her. A couple of minutes later, her mum called, saying she had to leave for a training course. She instructed her daughter to go to her grandma’s place during the holidays. It would be the last sign of her mother. The next time she saw or heard from her was seven months later, in court.

    “I had a premonition. The night before it happened, I had woken up all of my fellow students in the dorm with my screams, dreaming that I was being killed with a knife”.

    There’s not much that Kou remembers of the day itself, apart from the conversation with her friend. He said her mother had killed her father when he tried to get hold of the money she had put aside for Kou’s education.

    During the following three days, her uncle would tell her afterwards, Kou was in a permanent state of shock. She wasn’t aware of what people said to her and only after the doctor had managed to inject a tranquilliser did she fall asleep.

    “The only one who got to see my mother in all that time was her lawyer, who was to pass on the message that I was to be kept out of all of this at any cost. However, my uncle explained to me that I was the only person who could save her life. Grandfather would not rest before he had dealt her a final, deadly blow and nobody in the outside world knew what we had gone through for the last twenty years”.

    “I handed over my diaries, in which I had written about the horror at home, year after year. Making them public, sharing them with a lawyer that I didn’t even know, was very hard. But for the sake of my mother, I would have done anything”.

    During the trial, Kou took to the witness stand three times. She could hardly bear the image of her mother standing trial, and on the day of the verdict she didn’t show up. “My uncle went, while I was waiting at home with a knife. If she were to be sentenced to death, then so would I”.

    By now, tears are running down Kou’s face. She says in a stifled voice that a thousand people have signed a petition of sympathy for her mother, such was her popularity.

    The doctor is sentenced to a stay of execution, a measure which, according to Human Rights Watch, is applied in one in four murder cases. It means that she gets two years to successfully prove her mental rehabilitation, two long years during which death is constantly lurking around the corner. For if your behaviour is not judged satisfactory, the bullet is still waiting and in the best-case scenario, twenty years will still have to be spent behind bars.

    “The worst thing is that the judge himself said to my uncle that he would have been inclined to pass a sentence of twelve years, the minimum penalty for murder. But the pressure which my grandfather exerted was too overwhelming.”

    Finally, it took twenty-six months before Kou could meet her mother again. Two years and two months of silence: no letters or calls. “My uncle made me promise that I wouldn’t weep. He said it would destroy her and that I had to maintain my composure. During those first fifteen minutes we were given, we only talked about other people, about things that didn’t really matter”.

    “It took months before we were able to bring up that dreaded day and the incident. My sweet, sweet Mum says she doesn’t regret it, the only thing that’s eating away at her is the fact that she made me unhappy and that I became the child of a criminal.

    “It may seem odd, but I find it much harder to come to terms with her sentence than she does. She doesn’t deserve any punishment, her whole life has been utter penitence. She tries to convince me that she’s doing well. On weekdays, she works in the prison clinic and she teaches on Saturdays. “Nobody does me any harm here, believe me”, she said. “I’m being respected. Actually, I have a much better life than before, the only things that are lacking are you and freedom”.

    Kou Wei’s mother has been behind bars for more than seven years now. She gets along very well with the prison authorities, to the extent that she can receive her daughter within the walls of her own cell, sometimes for over two hours. It’s not yet clear when she’ll be released. “Maybe in nine years’ time. She’ll be 62 by then”.

    The luxury of a hotel
    It’s Friday night and we’re going for dinner with some of the older girls in a Sichuan-style restaurant in Xi’an. The atmosphere is great, the food is terrific and the night is still young. The teenagers feel like going bowling, or at least to some cosy bar and they’re looking forward to the idea of spending the night in a hotel. With a television, that is, with an endless amount of channels, with mattresses into which they can sink deeply, and with unlimited amounts of boiling hot water. The next morning, they confess with small, sleepy eyes that they only got to sleep at four o’clock.

    As a good host, the seventeen-year-old Zhang Xiangyu sorts out the most exquisite bits of food for us. She says she greatly admires journalists, reads every newspaper she can lay her hands on and definitely wants to become a writer later on. Or rather, she has already finished her first book on ten years spent in the Children’s Village. It’s currently being translated into English.

    A few days before, the accountant of the centre spoke of her as a model child. She’s very bright and has quite well psychologically with the family drama, the woman said. According to her, Zhang’s father was a boozing and womanising ne’er-do-well who even kept on harassing her mother after they got divorced. During one of those unwanted visits, Zhang’s mother and brother conspired to kill him. The boy has since been released, his mother still has more years to serve. “My first and foremost hope”, says Zhang softly, “is that my book brings about more empathy”.

    “The worst thing about a childhood spent in Children’s Village is not so much the absence of parents but rather the fact that you continually have to say goodbye to all those that you love. I told myself time and again that I wouldn’t care about people anymore, for when they leave, it’s as if a little part of you dies as well, and part of your life disappears”. Her friend Zhang Hao nods. “You never know how long a person will stay. If one or the other uncle or aunt gets it into his or her head to take you home, you have to obey”.

    Even children that are unwilling to go back to violent or totally undesirable family situations are being physically forced to leave with their family members. “The only thing we can do”, says Sevenants, “is to try to stay in touch. We therefore teach them how to make a phone call and provide them with some pocket money so that they can call us if need be. But whether or not they manage to do so... Besides, legally we have absolutely no right to stick our noses into their lives once they’ve gone”.

    Saturday afternoon. By the time we arrive at the centre, the oldest boys are busy preparing the wood for that evening’s bonfire and are quarrelling about the privilege of being the outdoor-DJ. A couple of teenage girls want to know if Auntie likes dancing. You see, they love to dance themselves, only they don’t really dare to.
    Xiang Kepeng (16) has been given a special task. He has to make sure that the youngest kids don’t run around the fire too wildly and that they manage to get through the evening without any accidents. He says he feels honoured, which I can well imagine. For the boy is still in primary school, where the teachers consider him to be a lost case, and Zhang the accountant doesn’t appreciate him much either. A couple of days before, she pointed him out as an example of the ‘lost third’ and said that everyone was already happy that he had stopped wetting his sheets a couple of months ago. “But now we’re worried about the fact that he’s discovered cigarettes and alcohol”. I want to ask her what adolescent has never tried a drink or a cigarette, but Mrs Zhang doesn’t like to be disagreed with.



    Xiang is a softly spoken, quiet young man who has lived here for six years and who dreams of a career in the army. He sees it as a matter of making himself useful for his country. “And I know”, he continues, “that my mother would be very proud of me”. The woman that is, who killed his father and who gets no other visitors than him, three or four times a year, each visit lasting no more than fifteen minutes. Her eldest son has of course tried to visit her, but as he doesn’t have any identity papers, he’s not allowed into the jail. “I know she’s innocent, she told me so and I believe her. She’d never lie to me. As soon as she gets out, I’ll take care of her. That’ll take at least another ten years but I’ll wait for her”.

    The boy stares off into the distance while he talks about the drama that destroyed his family. “We used to be well off, my father was the village chief. He got along fine with my mother and my brother and I used to come home from school every weekend. We were a very happy family, believe me. I often wonder what could have happened that day but I don’t understand a thing. When I ask my mother, she says that we should let the past rest. Guoqu jiu guoqu ba. Let bygones be bygones.

    “I remember it was the day before the start of the holidays. My mother had called the school, asking for us to come home straight away. I was nine, I understood that something serious had happened, otherwise we wouldn’t have been brought home in the school bus. To this day, I often dream about the moment we entered the house, the image of the room, my father’s dead, stiff body, my mum sobbing. Then the police came. They handcuffed her and dragged her along violently. That image still haunts me, after all these years it still numbs me.

    Ten days later, my brother and I were allowed to visit her in the local district prison, where she was awaiting trial. She looked terrible. Her body was covered in bruises and there were many burn wounds on her hands and arms. No wonder she had confessed to her so-called crime. Later, we heard that my uncle from my father’s side had given money to the police. He wanted her to confess to the murder at all cost. We think he was after our house and our land”.

    In the first year after the death of his father, Xiang lived with a relative. “It was absolutely terrible. We couldn’t go to school anymore, we had to toil from morning till evening and were barely fed. My brother ran away and later on I followed him. Finally, I got a place in this centre. At first, I was very much afraid but I didn’t cry. Boys don’t cry, do they?”

    The bonfire is a big success. The kids have played and danced for hours on end. “This was the most beautiful night of my life”, says Guo Lin, when I take her and her friends to their bungalow around nine o’clock. She squeezes my hand softly and wants to know at what time we’ll arrive the next day.

    Sunday, our last day in Children’s Village. Countless adventures of the Big Bad Wolf and stories based on Dutch kids’ songs until everyone is exhausted, and hours of drawing and making cards for the Chinese New Year.

    When we get ready to leave after nine o’clock that evening, Guo Lin puts a card in my hand. “Don’t show anyone”, she says in a firm voice. “And don’t read it until you’ve reached your hotel room”. I made a card for her too, clumsily and artistically average, but sincere and well intentioned. She’s visibly happy with it and immediately puts it underneath her pillow. “Will you send me envelopes with your address on it?” she asks in a small voice, almost pleading. “I can’t write very well yet, but I’ll practise a lot, I promise. Then I’ll be able to write to you often”. All of a sudden, this strong-willed little girl of eight seems very fragile. “Don’t forget me, Auntie”.

    While the other girls are still saying goodbye, Guo Lin goes straight to bed and turns her head to the wall. Auntie’s last goodbye remains unanswered.

    In the hotel room, I get out the card. It says ‘I love you, Auntie, I want to stay with Auntie and play together. I think Auntie is super. Promise me that you’ll take good care of yourself, as I will, so that we’ll surely meet again’.

    15-01-2007 om 00:00 geschreven door Catherine Vuylsteke  


    Categorie:In English


    Extraits à lire / uittreksels/ selected articles
    Foto

    Archief per week
  • 17/10-23/10 2011
  • 03/10-09/10 2011
  • 26/09-02/10 2011
  • 19/09-25/09 2011
  • 29/08-04/09 2011
  • 01/08-07/08 2011
  • 25/07-31/07 2011
  • 20/06-26/06 2011
  • 13/06-19/06 2011
  • 06/06-12/06 2011
  • 09/05-15/05 2011
  • 04/04-10/04 2011
  • 28/03-03/04 2011
  • 28/02-06/03 2011
  • 21/02-27/02 2011
  • 31/01-06/02 2011
  • 10/01-16/01 2011
  • 20/12-26/12 2010
  • 13/12-19/12 2010
  • 06/12-12/12 2010
  • 29/11-05/12 2010
  • 01/11-07/11 2010
  • 25/10-31/10 2010
  • 18/10-24/10 2010
  • 11/10-17/10 2010
  • 04/10-10/10 2010
  • 13/09-19/09 2010
  • 06/09-12/09 2010
  • 30/08-05/09 2010
  • 07/06-13/06 2010
  • 31/05-06/06 2010
  • 24/05-30/05 2010
  • 17/05-23/05 2010
  • 10/05-16/05 2010
  • 26/04-02/05 2010
  • 19/04-25/04 2010
  • 12/04-18/04 2010
  • 29/03-04/04 2010
  • 22/03-28/03 2010
  • 15/03-21/03 2010
  • 08/03-14/03 2010
  • 01/03-07/03 2010
  • 22/02-28/02 2010
  • 15/02-21/02 2010
  • 08/02-14/02 2010
  • 25/01-31/01 2010
  • 04/01-10/01 2010
  • 28/12-03/01 2010
  • 14/12-20/12 2009
  • 07/12-13/12 2009
  • 30/11-06/12 2009
  • 23/11-29/11 2009
  • 16/11-22/11 2009
  • 09/11-15/11 2009
  • 19/10-25/10 2009
  • 12/10-18/10 2009
  • 05/10-11/10 2009
  • 28/09-04/10 2009
  • 21/09-27/09 2009
  • 14/09-20/09 2009
  • 07/09-13/09 2009
  • 03/08-09/08 2009
  • 20/07-26/07 2009
  • 13/07-19/07 2009
  • 06/07-12/07 2009
  • 22/06-28/06 2009
  • 15/06-21/06 2009
  • 08/06-14/06 2009
  • 01/06-07/06 2009
  • 25/05-31/05 2009
  • 04/05-10/05 2009
  • 20/04-26/04 2009
  • 13/04-19/04 2009
  • 30/03-05/04 2009
  • 16/03-22/03 2009
  • 09/03-15/03 2009
  • 02/03-08/03 2009
  • 23/02-01/03 2009
  • 16/02-22/02 2009
  • 26/01-01/02 2009
  • 19/01-25/01 2009
  • 12/01-18/01 2009
  • 05/01-11/01 2009
  • 29/12-04/01 2009
  • 15/12-21/12 2008
  • 01/12-07/12 2008
  • 18/08-24/08 2008
  • 10/03-16/03 2008
  • 03/03-09/03 2008
  • 31/12-06/01 2008
  • 05/03-11/03 2007
  • 26/02-04/03 2007
  • 15/01-21/01 2007
  • 16/10-22/10 2006
  • 02/06-08/06 2003
  • 27/01-02/02 2003
  • 09/09-15/09 2002
  • 08/07-14/07 2002
  • 10/06-16/06 2002
  • 30/11-06/12 1998
  • 12/10-18/10 1998
  • 05/10-11/10 1998
  • 07/09-13/09 1998
  • 20/04-26/04 1998

    Categorieën
  • AFGHANISTAN (9)
  • AFRIKA (17)
  • ARABISCHE WERELD (30)
  • Articles en français (10)
  • China (55)
  • columns (14)
  • In English (10)
  • Iran (14)
  • OOST-AZIE (10)
  • PROJECTEN (0)
  • Rusland (13)
  • ZUID-AZIE (13)
  • ZUIDOOST-AZIE (7)

  • Inhoud blog
  • CHINA/ hoe de deugd werd vermoord
  • Marokko/ In de kerker van de koning
  • Gestrand in Oostende
  • 'Hij was weg, plots en voorgoed'
  • Wanneer moeders heksen en vampieren op de wereld zetten
  • Oostende, waar illegalen thuis zijn
  • 't Stad is niet van Assaad
  • Marokko/België De angst is naar hier geëxporteerd
  • BAHREIN /Jaffar al Hasabi: 'Martelen, daarin is het regime erg inventief'
  • IRAK-Regisseur Mohamed al-Daradji over de waanzin van filmen in Bagdad: van Al Qaida en bombardementen tot honderden massagraven
  • Migratie - Minderjarig en moederziel alleen in België
  • QATAR - de slaven van koning voetbal
  • CHINA - Frank Dikötter over de Grote Sprong Voorwaarts
  • NOORD-KOREA - Bovenaanzicht van de hel
  • CHINA- Ai Weiwei, de man die overal mee wegkwam
  • IVOORKUST- Alassane Ouattara, de superloodgieter
  • TUNESIE - columniste Naziha Réjiba over de Arabische Lente
  • IRAN - interview met Kader Abdolah
  • IRAK - Schrijfster Haifa Zangana: ‘Irakezen kwamen verenigd en vreedzaam op straat’
  • ARABISCHE WERELD - wat schrijfster Hanaan-as-Shaikj in 2004 over de toestand vertelde
  • Waarom het misging in de Arabische wereld
  • CHINA - Vluchtmisdrijf door zoon hoge functionaris zet land in rep en roer
  • EGYPTE
  • TUNESIE - Facebook heeft het land gered
  • TUNESIE -een gigantisch probleem van jeugdwerkloosheid
  • Vluchtelingen - gestrand in het bitterkoude Calais
  • CHINA - Ikea en McDonald's mikken op de panda
  • CHINA - Nobelprijs voor een lege stoel
  • CHINA - Liu Xiaobo, gevangen in een kooi van woorden
  • Internationale migratie - gestrand aan de oevers van de zee van Marmara
  • Joao da Silva - De Bang Bang Club
  • NIGERIA - sloppenbewoners moeten wijken voor verfraaiing van tuinstad Port Harcourt
  • INDIA -malafide microkredieten drijven boeren tot zelfmoord
  • DUITSLAND - 'Multiculturele maatschappij is mislukt'
  • IMAM èn homo zijn: het kan
  • CHINA- de Nobelprijs voor Liu Xiaobo
  • CHINA- het belang van de Nobelprijs voor Liu Xiaobo
  • AFGHANISTAN- stemmen in tijden van oorlog(3)
  • AFGHANISTAN - stemmen in tijden van oorlog(2)
  • AFGHANISTAN - stemmen in tijden van oorlog

    Blog als favoriet !

    Reactions/suggestions/e-mail mij

    Druk op onderstaande knop om mij te e-mailen.


    Startpagina !

    Zoeken in blog


    Gastenboek

    Druk op onderstaande knop om een berichtje achter te laten in mijn gastenboek



    Blog tegen de wet? Klik hier.
    Gratis blog op https://www.bloggen.be - Meer blogs