It has been a long time since I posted some material about the rebuild
of my Morgan. But as I found out last year, the summer months are not the best
to obtain some progress. There are so many other things requiring my attention,
that I neglect my baby. Shame on me!
Nevertheless, I made some progress since my last report. I can say that
I finished the engine, but to do so I had to make some parts myself, thereby
the spin on oil filter conversion being the most challenging.
I spend a few hours at MANO, a firm that provides all kind of parts and
tools for the industry. Luckily we managed to find the right adaptors and tubes
that I needed to make the conversion plate. After that the plate itself was a
simple job on the latte, making it on a logical thickness and drilling the
holes on the right spots. The right tread was simply tapped by hand, and it was
done.
Then I had to make some conversion adapters on the oil lines going from
the side of the engine block to the oil filter and back to the oil pan. All
those original adapters are in BSF, and if there is one thing you cannot find
in Belgium... right. So I welded some current adapters to my old ones, one side
taking the new oil pipes, the other (old stuff) going in to the engine. Rather
simple, and safe.
The dog drive for the distributor appeared as a problem, but in fact was
a piece of cake. I first made a tube of the correct length and thickness, and
then made on both sides the necessary cut-outs. It fits perfectly, does what it
has to do (turning), and so I dont expect future problems with that.
So with the distributor now in place, it was time to set the timing. I
just turned the nr 1 cylinder on his compression point, marked out where the
rotor arm was pointing to, and took that as a standard to start the festivities
with... Then came the spark plugs in,
and could I make the high tension cables.
But then it stopped, no time anymore. The Morgan has gone in his summer
sleep J
But on a very sunny Sunday - 12 august 2012 I decided that it was time
to wake the sleeping beauty. So I first made a temporarily oil line to an old
oil pressure meter. I thought that at least would be something to keep an eye
on, as it would start. The I placed a fresh battery on the floor board, made a
decent plus and min connection, a temporally fuel line, and a current line to
the coil. Off course I filled up the engine with oil (half synthetic), and
bolted the exhaust on.
OK this was the moment of truth... With the plugs out I let the engine
go round on the starter, to build up some oil pressure. That turning around also
provided fuel to the carburettor, so we were ready. Plugs back in, power to the
coil, and then I pulled the starter.
YES ! after a few seconds the engine came alive, after ± 40 years! A great
moment, and what a sound J
This test was still without radiator, because I still have to remake
that part. It has a slight leak and it has to be recromed. So without that necessary
cooling, I only let it run for a minute or so. But the radiator was on in about
15 minutes, still leaking (not really bad) but better than nothing J. So I restarted and let it run for 10 12 lovely
minutes, without any problem. A great day, a big step forward for me.
So next BIG problem is my radiator. I had a price quote from a
specialist in the UK, I think he is the only one that can make a series I
radiator. It comes out on about 5.000, but to be honest I cannot spend that
amount on a radiator alone. What he makes is top work, I have seen it and believe
it cost that much to make such a radiator. But no, my restoration budget cannot
cover that. So if anyone can give good advice on my radiator, PLEASE DO !!!
After the successful first start of the engine, I was rather pleased with
the results of the work I did until now. Hearing the sound of engine for the
first time is always a milestone in a restoration project. And since I started
from a pile of parts in a box, this was more than a milestone for me.
After that I mounted the exhaust system, a rather straightforward job. I
just had to reshape the pipe that comes to the exhaust collector, because that
pipe runs through the chassis. It has to be in the centre of the hole thats in
the chassis, to avoid that it would rattle against it. No problem, a bit of elbow
grease and the heat of the welding flame did the trick.
Until now I always walked around it, but now the next thing to do is the
radiator. Not only to go further with the engine, but also because I need the
radiator shell to outline the body parts. But as I mentioned before I had a big
problem regarding the costs of a new radiator, and so I had to find a cheaper
way to fix it. To have it re-chromed it has to be an empty radiator shell, so I
have to find someone that can make me a radiator that fits inside the original
shell, it is the only solution.
To find someone that can make me what I have in mind, I cut out the old radiator
core, to find out how much space I have inside the shell. Then I made an
technical drawing of the new radiator to my idea, and presented that to about 5
radiator specialists.
I had several reactions from the type yes we can do that, and one that
came with al lot of good suggestions about it, straight from the first contact.
I realised; this is the man I need. He is not only thinking in the same
direction as I do, but thinks even more forward with a lot more knowledge. And
that he was the cheapest of them all, was another great advantage too J.
After an extra telephone call I brought my radiator to his shop in
Oudenaarde, and there he bombed me with facts and tips about how he would build
it, as was it his owne. We agreed that he could do it in spare moments, because
a few weeks extra was no problem for me, and that he would keep me posted about
his progression. So I left my precious part in his good hands and left,
convinced that I have found the right guy.
After a few days I already received the first photographs of the naked
radiator core he was going to use, and that mail traffic would go on for a few
weeks, until the radiator was finished. He made some good changes on my
original plan, but always after discussing that first with me. The finished
product is perfect, and I had it in a 4 weeks. Thanks Koenraad Wynants, you are
a great guy and a true professional with hart for your job.
Then I found it was time to restart my restoration, it has been
neglected again too long. My first good intention for 2013 is: to work on it a
half day at least every week. I hope I will keep it J.
As a start I took the skeleton body from the loft an gave it an extra
layer of a wood preserving product, so the bad bugs would not eat it J. It looked
very nice afterwards, in fact it is a shame that you cannot see it once the car
is finished.
Then I measured it out on the chassis, and in the length it all looks
correct. Then I just had to line it out following the inside chassis shape, also
a piece of cake. So time to lift it a little bit, put some sealing-like product
between body and chassis, and put it on his final place. Then I drilled the
holes for the fixing bolts, and bolted the woodwork on the chassis. Again a
nice sight!
To satisfy my curiosity I took the old body panels from the loft, to
measure them on my car. It all seemed to fit in a normal way, until I
measured the distance between radiator shell and scuttle.
Great consternation, it seems to be 6 cm to long. The bonnet could
simply fall between the scuttle and radiator, an error on the skeleton? A bad
night followed...
But then I discovered that the radiator dont have to stand perfectly in
the upright position, as I placed it. In fact it is slightly tilted to the
bulkhead. So I moved it, and the second measurement from bonnet to scuttle gave
a complete different result. The distance was almost right now, and perfect as
a start position. So again I put the bonnet on. And now it fills nicely the
distance, and it follows perfectly the shape of the radiator shell. A heavy stone
fell off my shoulders...
Now I am looking for a safe way to remove the old paint from my original
body parts. Sandblasting is not an option, because of the deform that appears
on thin not strengthened parts. So I made contact with a firm that does paint
and rust removal with a chemical process. They are sure that there process fits
my requirements, and the parts are going there next week.
It has been far too long since I posted
a follow up on my project, it looks like the older I get, the scarcer the time...
But anyway, here is an update on the steering, an item that caused a lot of bad
sleep, again because the difficulty of getting parts. Worries that afterwards a
based on nothing...
The steering box that
came with the car was just an worn out, rusted and bended box and tube, even
the cover was missing. Nothing that could be used again without a proper parts
supply.
So I started looking
for second hand Buhrmann box of the same type, but that was as searching for a
needle in a hay stack. The biggest problem was that I needed an left hand drive
steering box, a right hand drive would be a bit easier. So again I had to ring
George the series 1 pope, and he gave me the advise to go looking for a Bishops
box as used from 1951 to ± 1976. The column would be about 10 cm. too long, but
making things shorter is easier than making them longer J. He advised me also to look for an
chassis clamp, because the fixing to the chassis is completely different.
Left hand drive, so I
thought USA. And the first company that crossed my search on the internet was
Morgan Motors of New England, in Copake NY. I mailed them, and the next day I
had a mail back from Linda Eckler, that they had a second hand example for me,
completely overhauled and with chassis clamp. About two weeks later it arrived
with UPS, and I could start with the adjustments.
Because of the
positioning of the clamp the steering column comes a bit further outwards, and
that makes that it comes under a slight angle regarding to the dashboard. With
other words, the steering wheel would not be in the same line as the dashboard,
but a little oblique.
But since I had to
shortened the whole column, I could easily solve that problem by using a little
universal joint in the last part, hidden under the dashboard. My neighbour had
an written off Renault in his backyard, and that was the donor for the
universal joint. I shortened the tube, took out the rigid steering axle, and
shortened that too, but on the latte. The diameter was adjusted to that from
the universal joint, and everything could be back together. On the other end of
the universal joint came a short piece of the axle, and that fits in the boss
for the steering wheel. Problem solved!
Next things to do is
the body, I am looking forward to it! In
fact I am busy on it at the moment, so an update comes very soon.
After
solving my problems with the steering box, I had to go on with the project, it
has been neglected too long. So here is an update, but I am already a bit
further in restoration than in writing, isnt that good news?
After placing the old panels on the skeleton body, just to have an idea
how the car looks or have to look, I had to decide how to remove the old paint
without damaging the body parts.
To be safe, I decided to have the paint from most of the parts chemically
removed, simply because the metal is only 0.8mm thick. When you try to remove
the old paint purely by sandblasting on such a thin metal, the chance that you
end up with nothing than scrap metal is around 100%.
And yes, I know there are several meanings about chemical paint removing
on car parts, the product stays between double plating an things is a common
complain, but I felt I had no choice. So I took everything off and brought it
to ICS in Sint Niklaas. They have a fairly good reputation in chemical paint
removing, so I decided to let them do the job. The factory didntlooked inviting, but the work I saw did. So
come on, and go for it....
I had to wait a few weeks before my parts were ready, and the result is not
all nice to see, but exactly what I expected. All the old paint was gone, and
the rusty areas completely visible, exactly as I hoped.
So now it is time to do some cautious sandblasting, on the rusted parts.
Theo my best friend offered to do it for me, I just had to set him on track,
and help a little bit with the difficult parts. We did the job simply at home, with
the little DIY sandblasting tool, and no more air pressure than necessary. That immense job took a few days, mostly
because the air compressor could not follow the huge demand on air. Theo had to
wait regularly, but at the end I had all the thin parts (that is except the
front wings, that are much thicker and can be done by a professional
sandblasting company) rust free and put in a protective red paint. Some kind of
a friend, no?
I repaired the cracks in the rear wings, reinforced them, hammered the
dents out, and welded new metal in the holes from the incorrect rear lights. No
holes anymore at this stage, I make the new ones at the end with the new rear
lights as a pattern. After the wings I did the same with the rear panel, the
back where the spare wheel comes through. A hell of a job, again because the
metal is so thin, and because the panel has been repaired several times in the
past, and not always by the best body repairer... But as my father used to say:
difficult works also, a bit slower, but it makes you smarter J. Then I
placed the rear panel and the rear wings on their place, and attacked the left
over dents with metal putty. Then a tour with abrasive paper, and again putty,
and so on and on...
Until the moment I decided that the result was good, and I could paint
the rear of the car in primer. Not only a great sight, but a real boost to
continue working.
With the rear quarter panels I had some other plans. They were so bad on
the lower part, that I definitely had to make new ones. So I thought, I better
make them in aluminium. And so I bought a plate off aluminium that the
professional aluminium van builders use. It is called in Dutch anodised
aluminium andhas a far better quality
for this kind of use than a normal plate you can buy in the DIY shop.
Making the quarter panels was easier than I expected. But to be honest,
I have to thank another friend Kris on that, for his good advice and help. He
has some experience with that kind of a job, from the time he restored his
Hotchkiss. So first we made some patterns from cardboard, and then we cut out
the aluminium with an extra 2 cm on the edges. Than we placed the panel on the
skeleton, and use spanners and some plywood to keep it strongly in place.
Hammering the edges around the wooden frame was easy, and then we fixed it with
nails. Piece of cake...
The doors where not that easy, but at the end also not really difficult,
because the main system stays the same. First you have to fix metal plates on
the wooden frame, creating the door shape. And that is the base where you fold
the aluminium around, so making a door skin. First we made the metal plates,
and fixed them to the wood with nails. Then with the old door skin as a
pattern, we cut the new metal plates in the correct shape, and did a try out on
the car. After a bit extra modelling, we placed the door frame on the
aluminium, and used then that as a pattern (+ 2 cm) to cut out the definitive door
skin.
The plate came then on the naked door frame, fixed in place with
spanners and plywood, and was hammered around the metal plates, creating a
double edge. On the top side the plate was plied direct on the wooden frame and
fixed with nails. And thats it!!!
And now I am fighting a real war with the bonnet. She(according to the
problems I came on it must be female) was in a very bad state, and the shape
was if like a truck run over it... twice J. The front side was corroded and sharp as a
knife, so I had to make a new front strip for it, 5 cm wide. Then plied that
over on one side, so creating a double edge. That is not only very strong, but
also can be plied in correct bonnet shape. After a visual test to see if it
would follow the line of the radiator, we cut off a ± 4,5 cm strip from the
bonnet front, and welded the new front side on with the TIG. Until that stage I
hoped no I was sure - that the front
of the bonnet would nicely follow the shape of the radiator. But that would
have been too good to be true. Although the result was already nice, it was
clear that Santa Claus does not come for grown ups with bonnet dreams J. But still I
was happy with the result, it was not bad at all.
To have the shape correct - we speak about a few millimetres only on
some places - I am now preparing everything to adjust the shape of the bonnet
to that from the radiator. That has to be with lead, it has to be strong. Not a
real easy job, but one that I did before and with success. So I am convinced
that I can reach the result that I like.
A first and very important stage is the preparation of the metal, it
must be 100% clean to give a correct grip to the lead. Than bringing on a thin
coat of fluid lead on it with a brush, warm that up with a small (gas)flame,
and when it gets flow able clean it up a little with a clean rag. A tinned
surface must be the result.
Than taking a rod of lead, warm it up next to the prepared surface, and
melting it on in little dots. After that I warm it again a bit, and push the
lead in the (almost) right shape with a wooden spoon. After that, the body
file, elbow grease and a good eye, must do the rest.
Now the ruff work on the body is done afterwards its seems that it was
the easy part - it is time to make everything tight, smooth, and ready for
painting. But all that is faster said than done. Mainly it means hammering as
much as possible dents out of the body, filling some dents with thin, and using
a metal file (more a grater) to straighten the metal. All that to ensure that the
use of filler can be limited to the minimum.
But some dents in the bonnet and the rear panel do not differ, the
condition of those panels was terrible after about 40 year storage combined
with a few house moves. On top of that the
(after war) metal is so thin (0.8 mm.) that you have to be careful when you
start sneezing J,
the metal was stretched where dents used to be, and it was impossible to get a
plain surface just by cold hammering.
So I had to use a technique I learned some 40 years ago as helper of an
old coachbuilder - real craftsman - or at least what I still could remember of
it. Shrinking they call it, and its all in that word. I had to shrink the
metal by making a little round spot (about the size of a 2 piece) flaming red
with the blowtorch, and then fast round hammering from outside to the inside, then
followed by cooling the whole thing with a bit of water and a sponge. To be
honest, it took me some time before it would go a little bit like I hoped, but after
some training spots on a loose piece of metal it did. I think I spend about 5
hours warming, hammering, cooling and grating. But after that it all looked
straight enough to take the next step.
So now I made the surfaces (except the front wings) straight with a good
quality filler, sanding them down, filled the little dents again, and sanded
them down. And again, and again... At a moment it looked as if the whole body
was covered with a thick layer of filler, but thats only a first impression. I
think that even on the worst parts, the filler has no more thickness than 2
millimetre. I used 3 kg. of filler on the whole body, and you can count that
75% comes off again with the sanding. For me that result is more than
acceptable.
After that came a coat of spraying filler, to get the last scratches of
the ruff sanding out, followed by a few good layers of primer.
The front wings came next. There metal is much thicker, so I had them
sandblasted by someone that knows how to handle such parts. A lot of filler and
old paint came off, but basically they where surprising good. I just had to
weld in a little piece of metal where they fix on the front support, because
that part is double, and so rust can go its way there. And on the rear where
they are bolt on the rear wings, that also needed a little bit off new metal.
But making them straight was another story, it took a lot of time,
simply because they are so long and in the past on several spots repaired with
a lot of filler.
Getting a nice smooth surface was not so easy. Hammering the dents out
was one thing, getting the wings straight after the filler another. Especially
because I first tried to do it with the sanding machine, but I could not receive
the result I wanted.
To cover a much greater part of the wing in one time, I made a simple sanding
block (60 cm) from a piece of wood, and nailed the sanding paper on the head
ends. So now I could cover much longer strokes, almost the whole wing, in one long
smooth move. That worked well, so again filler sanding filler sanding and
so on. Than after much elbow grease, spraying filler came on, sanding again...
and then followed by a few layers off primer.
From the start of this adventure I decided that the body would come in a
warm maroon, and the wings in distinguished black. So now it was time to paint
the body, so I could finally go further with the more visual part of the
rebuild. For that purpose I hired the spray cabin of a small garage here in the
village, to do the paintjob myself. Geert the young owner dont mind to let
me work in it, because I used to work in several paint shops when I was a lot younger.
One of them was in fact in that same garage, but then owned by his father, who
is after 40 years still a friend. So over the years I always managed to
maintain a part of that skill, as a helping hand here and there.
I used two pack paint off course, but not the version with a varnish end
coat , because that finish would be to modern. But on the other hand, to make
the end coat stronger, I always use a bit of pure two pack varnish in my final
coat of paint. The result is always stunning...
Now the body is painted, I can go on with the dashboard, the electric components and cables, in fact with a lot of things that are needed to make the car run.
So I started putting the wiring loom in the car, because that have to be done before the dashboard comes in, so you can connect all the wires without laying on your back underneath the dash.
It was supposed to be a straightforward job, because it is a new wiring especially made for me by Autosparks (http://www.autosparks.co.uk/) But it turned out that the main wiring cable that goes from the regulator box to the dashboard was too short. I could solve that problem by giving the cable another route, but I dont like that. On the pictures of my old worn body, I could perfectly see where it has to be. So no concessions, it has to be right.
First I contacted Autosparks about it, and they were surprised but very friendly and helpful. They never had that problem before I was told, and I am
willing to believe that. With only a few LHD examples of this specific model made
or left, I simply think they never had to make a LHD wiring before J. They suggested
that I measured everything up, send the wiring back, and they would adjust it
where needed. But my proposal was that they send me 1 meter of every wire and
colour they used, so I could do it a la carte here at home, and so we did. In
3 days I had the wires, and it took me half a day soldering and isolate the
wires separately, followed by a complete isolation coat of cloth tape. You
cannot see where it has been lengthened, and it fits like it has to be, so that
was what I wanted. There colour codes where absolutely perfect, so from that
moment on, it was a real straightforward job J.
After that I had to make extra wiring for the indicators, because the
car did not had them in his younger days. Not only a wiring for the switch, and
the control light, but also wires to the front and to the back of the car. Not
too difficult all that, but it took a lot of time to fix all the wires in a
proper way...
Then the renovated dashboard came in, and I did a test start to see if
all my electric components where working. Apparently the dynamo was not
charging, although I tested it after the rebuild. So I looked and tested
further, and the control box was the bad guy. This control box has 9
connections, so an example from an MG or so could not be used. But it came out
that it was no problem at all, I simply bought a new one at Auto electrics. (http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/)
So now I could start putting the windscreen together, and placed on the
car. A while ago I had the windscreen frame dissembled and the chroming company
had made it look like new. They also took care of the pillars that come on
the body, and where the frame fits in. Those pillars where brand new ones, that
I bought from George, the series one pope. He had a few of them made by casting
company especially for him, made with some old scrap as an example. They still
where in ruff bronze, but the chroming company took all the finishing work for
them, and the result is great.
The glass part of windscreen was also in bad shape, scratched all over.
Buying a new one was impossible, it did not exist. And due the special cut out
parts for the wiper mechanism, the screen of a younger model was also no
option.
So I took my old screen to the local glazier, to ask him if he had a
solution for me... He looked at it and said, OK, I cut you a new one. He did it
the following day, and then it went to a specialised firm to be hardened, so it
can be used as a car windscreen. Simple as that, where was I so worried about J.
The new glass part went in the frame and I sealed it with Sicaflex, a
windscreen sealing product used to glue windscreens on to cars. First I
measured the glass, and then the inside of the windscreen frame. Then I made
some rubbers and placed them in the frame, so the glass was already fixed in
place. Then the Sicaflex was injected and nicely wiped off where the glass
meets the frame. A job where one should were gloves, as I know now J. But the end
result is perfect, and my hands became clean again after a day or 10 J.
A new rubber seal (MG TD) on the underside of the frame - where the
frame meets the body came on, and my renovated windscreen was ready to be put
on the car. Then the headlamps and front indicators came on, and from that
moment one it started to look like a real car.
Then came the wiper motor in sight - or rather not - because it was not
in the pile of parts that came with the car. It has to be a Lucas as used in
so many British cars of the past. So I bought me a used example on Ebay, that
had to be reconditioned. You find them also all ready, but the price is than
rather high.
The one I bought looked rather tatty, but inside it was not bad at all.
After cleaning the anchor and windings I putted new brushes in, and a test
proved its working. Then I took all the paint off and gave it 3 good layers of
wrinkle paint, so now it looks like new. A new wiper mechanism and wipers were
ordered at Vintage car parts, so everything was there to finish that part. (http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/)
Great sight, and a real boost to go one with the rest of the
restoration. I did a security check of all the bolts and nuts that secure the
suspension. So I could say to myself: OK this is all done and would not fall of
when we do a test-drive J.
And that moment came very fast, it was itching too much, I had to do a
test drive. Simply on the little road here on the back of our garden. I did
this first run together with my granddaughter, my strictest judge. We were
sitting on improvised seats, in fact wine crates with a little foam on top, and
a simple wooden plate was promoted to backrest. It was a short but great ride
without any comfort, no doors, no wings, no licence plates... But oh boy, was
this FUN ! And... the car was running surprisingly well.
Next step: preparing the car for the upholstery company. A bit painful
for me, because I like to do as much as possible myself, but for this I needed
a specialist.
The problem was that I had only the sad looking panels from the old
interior. No seats, no backrest it is a bench type nothing. So everything
has to be made using the pictures a took, every time I had the chance to see a
series 1, and what I could see in the Original Morgan book etc.
Luckily I also had the side panels from the boot, and the wooden piece
that crosses from left to right and acts as a support for the backrest, and
also fixes the hood frame. So I could exactly determine where that back had to
come, and that seems to be good start...
So with a little bit of fantasy and a part of common sense, I was able
to make a backrest that seems to be of the right dimension, and sitting in the
proper spot. Not easy because I had no references, but it all seems to be in
the right place.
Then I made new side panels, so the upholstery man can work on a good
base for Those Items. I find that it is not his problem that my car is missing
some parts, I have to provide the basics and information he needs, so he can
make an upholstery as I like it to be.
Then I made the little benches that come under the seat cushions - high enough
so that after cutting them down a few times, they were adjusted to my
personal length. An important matter, the space inside is so limited, that
every cm. counts. And beside that: I dont want my head to come out above the
windscreen, my hair is already getting so thin J. And finally I made the tunnel for the prop
shaft, another missing part. And again I had to use my imagination to create something
that looks as I think it has to be. In
one movement I also adjusted the height of the tunnel to what will be the total
height of the seats, so it will all look as if its made for each other J.
So up to the trim shop now, a very big and final step in the restoration
process of my series one...
All is changing very
fast now, once the project goes to the trim shop, you can see it become a car
day by day.
But first I have to
say that I made an agreement with my friend Michel- from the trim shop -that I would come to the shop everyday to
give him a helping hand where that was possible. Not only because he was so
friendly to take my car as an extra he has a waiting list but also because
on certain points there are decisions to be made, based on a little bit of
imagination.
Again because of the
little one can find about these cars... And no, the book Original Morgan
cannot solve that problem, a few photographs are not enough to rebuild a car in
the correct way. And beside of that, sorry to say, but the information you can
find in it is not so correct at all.
But in the past I
made my homework where possible, collecting a much photographs I could find or
take myself, and that should be enough to build a nice interior.
So we started off
with the space after the bench seat, what you can call the boot. First he
made the upholstery for the wheel arches, followed by the mat, and then
followed by the rear and side panels.
Then we moved to the
cockpit of the car, and we brought the sills in shape with a strong foam, so
we could make a nice curve from top to bottom. Then the kick panels were
made, and the mats for the bottom.
The Michel started on
the back of the seat, carefully measuring out where he had to make thestitches, so it would be visual perfect.
Again we had to use a bit off imagination, but in the end it all came well.
Whilst he was
struggling with that back, measuring and counting, I made the wooden undersides
for the two seat cushions, and a simple system to keep them in place, although
easily removable. We agreed to make the seat cushions 8 cm. high, and in 30
minutes they were ready.
Then a cover for the
gearbox was made, based on a few pictures all of them showing a different
model of cover and our imagination. Correct or not? The result looks fine,
and thats ok for me.
Then the bench was
ready, and the puzzle felt together. For me the result is very nice, and people
that have seen it agree with that. I think we made a great result, started with
what we had to compare with.
Now it is just a
matter of getting the front wings in place, and put the aluminium/ rubber profiles
on them. I am happy!
Now the Morgan project is almost ready, I decided to put all my other
work on hold and finish the Morgan first.
It is late September and the sun is still shining, perfect weather for
some test drives to get the bugs out, and with my birthday coming up the finished
Series One will be a nice present to myself J.
On Sunday me and my son bolted the front wings on the car, a
straightforward job because everything had be in place when the car was in
primer. All the holes for the woodscrews where made, the finishing strips where
cut to measure, and the RVS bolts to put the sill and rear wing together are
waiting in a box. The position lights are in position and ready to be plugged
in.
So it took us about three hours to complete that task and end up with an
almost finished series one. I use here the word almost because we still have to
make the weather equipment. But I still have to look for examples of the side
screens and hood, because I have nothing to use as a pattern. So if anyone can
help me with that
On Monday I did a nice test drive, did some adjustments on the ignition
and carburettor, and after that a longer drive. It runs very well, and far better
that I thought it will do. Only the gearbox is rather noisy, except in fourth
gear. From all the mechanical parts is that the only thing that is not overhauled,
simply because I found no source for parts. So I decided to give it a chance,
hoping for the best. But in the meantime I have found someone that can help me
with the parts, so that gearbox problem also will be solved this winter.
Time to go for the Technical inspection (MOT) so the car can get here own
licence plates and correct insurance. The Morgan passed the test with flying
colours, not one remark was made. So I am very happy JJJ.
And finally to finish the story, I felt I had to do one more thing... I decided
to use one of my test drives to visit Jean and Danielle, the couple where I bought
in 1990 the Morgan from.
The Morgan was used to be restored by Jean for his wife (see the start
off this story), but a lot of other cars came and went, and Jean never started
the restoration. But luckily Jean sold the car to me, and we always kept in
touch.
Danielle never forgot the Morgan, and I promised here to come over with the
car as soon it was ready. And so I did, and it was a very pleasant and even emotional
moment when she saw the Morgan. After almost 30 years she sat behind the steering
wheel, so now the circle is round...
