Druk oponderstaande knop om een berichtje achter te laten in mijn gastenboek
The Watch Aficionado
Voor de horlogeliefhebber
24-06-2013
Tag Heuer Monaco
Tag Heuer Monaco
Created:1969
Story: In 1969, Tag Heuer shook up watch
making tradition by creating the first ever square water-resistant case. Driven
by the celebrated Chronomatic Calibre 11, the Monaco was also the worlds first
square automatic chronograph. It was only one year old when Steven McQueen
chose to wear it in Le Mans, the famous car racing film, and on the wrist of
this major movie star, it soon became an icon. Forty years later, the Monaco
series is a truly exceptional collection, a symbol of daring and excellence.
Today, TAG Heuer continues to break all the rules with the revolutionary Monaco
V4, the worlds first timepiece with a belt-driven transmission.
Story: The Nautilus collection was
introduced in 1976. Patek Philippe was looking for a strong design and an
inimitable personality. An inspiration for its design soon emerged: The
universal shape of a porthole found on virtually all maritime vessels. The
original model was the Ref. 3700/1 in steel. Since then, the Nautilus has
established itself as a classic, elegant sports watch and the original
reference is one of the most sought-after timepieces at auction. The new
Nautilus collection showcases the flattering redesign of Patek Philippes
casually elegant classic. It has gained style through subtle and carefully
calculated changes while preserving its original spirit.
Story: The submariner, introduced in 1953,
was the first watch to be water-resistant up to 100 meters (330 feet). It was
later strengthened by its patented triple-seal Triplock winding crown, making
it capable of withstanding depths of up to 300 meters (100 feet). (See page 22
for more history on Rolex)
Story:The
Speedmaster chronograph was created in 1957. From its inception it has been
known for its high precision, sturdiness, readability, ease of use and
reliability and in 1969 it claimed its place in history as the first watch to
be worn on the moon.
Story: A
Jaeger-LeCoultre invention that has been unique in the world since 1931: the
"Reversible" case. A timeless symbol of Art Deco, it is the most
classic of rectangular watches. When its case is turned over, the Reverso is
transformed into a jewel that can be personalized for ever by an engraving.
Since 1931, the Reverso has housed over 50 different mechanical calibers, from
the worlds smallest to grandes complications, ranging from ultra-thin
movements to tourbillons and from minute repeaters to perpetual calendars. Each
of these mechanisms has been specially designed to fit the legendary reversible
case and entirely made on site at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture, in the
finest Swiss watch making tradition.
Story: At the
end of the 1930s, two Portuguese businessmen active in the watch industry were
searching for technical precision of the highest order and paid a visit to the
factory in Schaffhausen. They ordered wristwatches in steel cases with the
accuracy of a marine chronometer. At the time, the only way of meeting their
request was with a pocket watch movement, so IWC decided to take one from a
hunter movement (which also has the crown on the right-hand side) and house it
in a wristwatch case. The first Portuguese of 1939 established an IWC watch
family whose precision, sheer size and complex mechanics have been a source of
pleasure to watch enthusiasts the world over for more than 70 years.
Story: The Tank
is a line of watches made by Cartier. It was created by Louis Cartier in 1917, and inspired by the new Renault tanks which Cartier saw in use
on the Western Front, and the prototype watch was presented by Cartier to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force. Its lines and proportions are similar to those of tanks found on First
World War battlefields; it is both a square and a rectangle, and its straps are
concealed under vertical sidepieces so as to be hidden from view. Tanks
(usually) have blue, sword-shaped hands with silvered opalineguilloché dials. The winding crowns on Tanks, like those of most Cartier watches, have sapphirecabochons on them. It is possible to find most models of Tank in versions
embellished with diamonds. The metal bracelets on those models which come with them (such as the
Tank Française) are shaped with indentations which bring to mind the distinctive
caterpillar tracks of real
tanks.
Story:The favorite watch of pilots and dedicated
aviation fans laid a major milestone in its history by taking aboard Breitling
Caliber 01 the most reliable and high-performance self-winding chronograph
movement entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops. Equipped
with a case featuring a slightly larger diameter, the Navitimer 01 is
distinguished by its black dial with a red seconds hand and applied hour-
markers or numerals, representing details that give even greater depth and
character to its iconic face
Story:The origin of this
collection was a legendary watch. In 1953, Blancpain created the Fifty Fathoms,
a diving watch for the frogmen of the French army. Worn by Cousteau himself,
this timepiece took on iconic status. Today, Blancpain produces it as a family
of watches water-resistant to a depth of as much as 1,000 m. This collection is
the expression of Blancpains special relationship with the world of the sea.
It is unflinchingly sporty, and combines watch making expertise and innovative
materials in its subtle but tough construction. The exceptional performance of
these models makes them capable of standing up to any situation, even the most
extreme. Sophisticated instruments serving active people, these fearless
watches are also timeless icons, made in the image of the legendary Fifty
Fathoms.
Audemars Piguets Royal Oak and Royal Oak
Offshore
Created:1972
(Royal Oak)1993 (Royal Oak
Offshore)
Story: A
disruptive and downright revolutionary timepiece, the Royal Oak is immediately
recognizable thanks to its state-of-the-art engineered strongbox case, octagonal
bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws, visible water resistance gaskets,
dials adorned with exclusive engine-turned Grande Tapisserie motif.
Today, the world of watch industry presents
a huge variety of watch companies with a wide range of time meters. However,
chronometers of certain brands have a central place. They guarantee their
owners maximum precision, excellent quality and unique style. One of the most
famous brands of luxury watches can rightly be called Rolex. In 1903, Hans
Wilsdorf arrived in London, where he decided to establish his own watch
manufactory, being sure that wristwatches are things of future. And he wasnt
wrong: today his famous watches are the best in the world. However, these timepieces
are not just one of the most famous in the world, they are synonymous with
elegance, luxury, high status in society and impeccable quality. This famous
brand is an essential attribute of a successful person, its name has become
common: if a person has Rolex watch on his wrist, then he is rich and
successful. This famous watch brand is the only one to date that does not
discount its products. Rolex's philosophy - "maximum quality at maximum
price." Most of the money paid for these elite watches is a payment for
image. In addition to their great success at the global market of the watch
industry, these famous watches have a number of other achievements. For
example, in 1927, the watch Rolex Oyster on British sportswoman Mercedes
Gleitzes wrist swam the English Channel for 15 hours and 15 minutes. CEO Hans
Wilsdorf spent 40 thousand francs on informing the public about the health of
the swimmer and the time of the race each hour. The photos of smiling swimmer
were headlined: "The greatest triumph of Rolex Oyster. After the
legendary swim, the Rolex watch took a leading position at the watch market,
and Rolex Oyster was swept away from the shelves. In the movie "Agent
007", which appeared on the big screen in 1950-s, James Bond overcame
various obstacles with Rolex Submariner on his hand. Specially designed and
attached to the submersible "Trieste", the model of Rolex together
with French scientists Jacques Piccard and Donald was at a depth of 10,915
meters in the Mariana Trench in 1960. During the entire underwater trip the
watch showed correct time. However, the main achievement of this elite and
well-known watch brand is the fact that Rolex watches are known by everybody,
and even by those, who do not delve into the specifics of the watch industry.
Another famous watch brand is Breguet. Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of
this brand, is still one of the greatest watchmakers in the history of
watchmaking. The most famous persons in history preferred those elite watches:
Napoleon Bonaparte, Marie Antoinette, Tsar Alexander I, Prince of Wales, Sir
Winston Churchill - this is not a complete list of clients. "To carry a
fine Breguet watch is to feel that you have the brains of a genius in your
pocket." - once said Sir David Salomons, a famous collector of luxury
watches. Luxury watches of Breguet fully justify this statement.
The letter of the Greek alphabet, Omega, has been a sign of good luck and
perfection for two and a half thousand years. And now, during 150 years, the
well-known watch brand Omega fully corresponds to its Greek name. 23-year-old
Louis Brandt founded the company in 1848 in the Swiss town of La
Chaux-de-Fonds. First it was a usual workshop, specialized in watch assembly,
which later became one of the most renowned watch manufactories in the world.
Soon he was sent on trips to Europe in order to sell the products manufactured
during winter. That work provided him with a fairly comfortable existence
thanks to a stable demand for his famous watches. In 1965, already known Omega
watches with watches of other manufacturers have been tested by NASA in
zero-gravity conditions, under the influence of strong magnetic fields, as well
as temperatures from -18 to +93 degrees Celsius. However, only Omega
Speedmaster, which was chosen for the Apollo program, stood the tests. In
1970, the company released an ultra-sealed model Seamaster 600 with water
resistance to 600 meters, which was used by Captain Cousteau for researches at
a depth of 500 m. The company did not pass by the film industry either. In
1995, Omega replaced the famous Rolex watch in James Bond film. The watch
Omega Seamaster Professional Chronometer showed off on the wrist of immortal
hero in subsequent films. Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic
Games 2008 and Winter Olympic Games 2010.
A deserved and indisputable place in this list is given to the well-known Swiss
brand of luxury watches Patek Philippe. The company was founded in 1839 by an
immigrant - Pole Anthony Patek. The famous watches of this well-known brand are
among the most expensive mass-produced watches in the world. The company
adopted the Spanish Cross of the Order of Calatrava as its symbol. In 1993,
Patek Philippe produced a complicated (24 functions) pocket watch for banker
Henry Graves, which was sold for $ 11,000,000 after his death in 1999. That was
the most expensive sale in the history of watches, which entered the Guinness
Book of Records. In 1989, the masters of the company created one of the most
complex models of watches ever produced - Calibre 89. That well-known watch was
designed for the 150th anniversary of the companys founding. It contains 33
complex movements, including the date of the religious holiday of Easter,
thermometer, time of sunrise, equation of time, sidereal time, and other indicators.
The model Calibre 89" can add an extra day to February in leap years and
skip the extra days every 100 years. In the list of fans of these famous
watches there are many political figures, heads of states, celebrities, as
Hollywood actor Brad Pitt.
The well-known watch brand Cartier, founded by Louis-Francois Cartier in
1847, was a small jewelry shop at that time. However, already in 1867, Cartier
watches were exhibited at the World Exhibition in Paris. In 1888, the company
released its first models, and since 1906 it has begun to produce wrist watches
decorated with precious stones. In 1917, Cartier created its famous model
Tank, the design of which reminds of a huge British tank from World War I.
The watches of that model were presented to the American commanders (including
General John J. Pershing) in gratitude for the liberation of France. In 1933,
especially for water treatment procedures of Pasha of Marrakesh a watertight
luxury watch Pasha was designed.
The brand Longines is one of the most elegant and famous brands in the world. In 1832, August Agassiz came to the town of Saint-Imier and took a job at a small shop that sold spare parts for clocks. From that moment the history of the famous watch brand began. The watches of Longines are preferred by historical figures. For example, Amundsen, the world-famous conqueror of the North Pole, and Byrd, overflying the South Pole. In sports, the company Longines was the official timekeeper at numerous summer and winter Olympics from 1905 to 1952. It should be noted that those famous watches in a unique and elegant form of "barrel" were preferred by George Peppard and Audrey Hepburn in the cult film "Breakfast at Tiffany's." Albert Einstein also preferred a watch of Longines, which after his death was sold at auction for 596.000 dollars. The original watches of Maurice Lacroix are made by hand that makes them perfect in quality and design. These watches can be only enjoyed. The company was founded in a small town of St-Legier in 1961, when the family company Desco de Schultess, engaged in the manufacture of silk, expanded its activities and purchased equipment for manufacturing of watches. In 1975, the name of an ordinary manufacturer was chosen as an imposing name of the brand. Previously the models were manufactured under the name of customer. Since then the company has been constantly growing and improving, acquiring its own unique style and traditions, and it is one of the most famous watch brands. The company Franck Muller, founded in 1992 by Vartan Sirmakes and Franck Muller, has a relatively short history in the watch industry. However, during this short period, it has managed to win its unshakable place in the world of watches and stand in a line with the famous watch manufacturers. The company makes rather complicated watches, and every year it manages to show the world the inventions, unknown to the history of watchmaking. For example, in 1998 the famous brand created the world's smallest tourbillon movement, setting a world record. For its short period of existence, the company Franck Muller introduced the world about 20 inventions, considered to be a "world premiere". The luxury watches of the brand show off on the wrists of such Hollywood stars, like Bruce Willis and Demi Moore. The well-known watch brand Tissot is known for its movements around the world. It was founded in 1853 by Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son Charles-Emile in Le Locle. Initially, it was a small shop under the title "Charles Tissot and Son." In 1858, Charles-Emile went to Russia, where he successfully started selling pocket watches, and since 1866 Tissot became the official supplier of watches of the Russian Imperial Court. At the end of the XIX century, Charles-Felicien founded subsidiaries in Frankfurt and Moscow. Since 1904 Tissot has become the supplier of watches for the Russian army, producing the so-called "Tsar watches" for the officers of the Imperial Guard, which were engraved with the emblem of the Imperial Russian regiments. Throughout the existence of the famous brand the watches were owned by people like Elvis Presley, Nelson Mandela, Grace Kelly. The original Tissot watches have been used in the film "Lara Croft Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life" and "Mr. & Mrs. Smith". The company is also the official timekeeper of the world championships of circuit racing MotoGP and NASCAR. This is not a complete list of famous brands, functioning at today's market of the watch industry. Here are the most important ones in the world of watches. You only need to choose what brand will suit you and reflect your temperament and style best of all.
Brands
like: TAG Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Longines,
Bell & Ross, Tissot, Raymond Weil, Oris, Rado.
Price range:500 - 2.500
Things to
look for in this region:
1.Sapphire Crystal
A watch
crystal is the transparent cover over the face of the watch. Crystals have been
made using different materials over the years, but only a few major materials
dominate the market today. Most of the watches youll look at have one of two
types of crystals; mineral glass or synthetic crystals. Mineral crystals are
cheaper and offer one benefit over sapphire they dont tend to shatter if
struck hard. Meaning they will crack, but not shatter. Shattered sapphire
crystals are relatively rare and typically occur with a harsh impact. The
better the watch, the thicker the sapphire crystal will be, and thus less likely
to crack. Sapphire crystals are incredibly scratch-resistant though. You often
see well-worn watches with beat up cases but a flawless crystal. Thus,
sapphire crystals are more desirable to mineral crystals and should be
preferred the majority of the time.
2. Solid Metal Construction
To some
people it might be obvious to get a watch out of solid metal, but youd be
surprised at how some cheaper watches cut costs. Steel watches should be made
from grade 316L stainless steel. Plus, the watch case and bracelet links should
be solid pieces of metal rather than folded metal or anything hollow. It is
easy to tell a solid bracelet by looking at the side of it. In watches at this
level, cases are best made from the fewest amounts of pieces and using the most
metal possible. This means the least (or no) amount of materials such as
plastic or otherwise.
3. Swiss movement
Switzerland
is known for making high quality watch movements. Most of the time Swiss
movements come from ETA or Ronda, especially if they are quartz movements
(though this is not always the case). Lastly, at this price point you dont
need to worry too much about finding mechanical watches, you are fine with a
quartz movement, even though there are plenty of mechanical movements
available.
4. Solid Feeling Construction
You want
your watch to feel well put together and solid. Check to see how well the strap
or bracelet fits to the case. There should be little to no wiggle room. Put the
watch on your wrist and see how well the clasp or buckle operates. If the watch
has a rotating divers bezel, again twist it around and see how much movement
it gives in a resting position. A good watch should not make too much or any
noise when shifting around briskly on your wrist.
5. Designed by Actual Watch Makers
Consider
that two types of people are designing watches. Those that care about how well
a watch functions as a timepiece, and those that just care about how they look.
The best watches are designed using fundamental watch design principles that
value function AND form. The alternative fashion watch may look nice, but
actually have superfluous design cues. Worst case scenario is a watch that is
so poorly designed it does not even function properly. Examples of this are
missing chronograph sub dials, inoperable measuring scales just placed for show
or hand that are too small or the wrong size. So when buying a watch, allow
yourself to take the time and really look at the dial and all its features,
figuring out what each function does, along with making the decision whether it
is usable given your standards.
6. Locking Deployment Clasp if on Metal
Bracelet
Cheaper
watches with metal bracelets still have what is called a single locking clasp.
This is the type a bracelet that literally just snaps or clicks into place. The
best metal bracelets have what are known as double or triple locking clasps.
The image below has a bracelet with a double locking clasp (deployment). The
piece on the left locks via clicking down when it attaches to the bottom
segment. That is the first lock. The second is the little metal flap that
locks again over the first piece to secure it being closed. A triple lock
often features a push-button in the mix, or there are also double locking
clasps with a push-button instead of a fold over flap. The bottom line is that
you want a watch bracelet that will stay secure on your wrist no matter what
you are doing.
7. Weight
Watch
weight is a polarizing concept. Some people love heavy watches, others want
something very light. On more expensive watches you start to see materials such
as titanium which are lighter than steel, but in this price segment, weight is
often a sign of quality. At this price level, you are only going to get that
nice crisp quality look with steel. So in this segment weight is often a sign
of quality, so feel the weight of a case and bracelet to make sure it is
substantial enough to justify your investment.
8. Signed Crown and Buckle or Clasp
A good
watchmaker is more often than not a proud watch maker, and is fully invested in
each watch they design. This means there are typically four places that youll
watch to see the name of the watch makers. You can find these on the face of
the watch, the caseback, on the crown and on the deployment clasp or strap
buckle. The manner of signing can vary, but at this price level it is usually
some type of light laser engraving. Higher priced watches have logos and
graphics done relief. Cheaper watches have bare crowns and deployments which
make it too clear that these parts are taken from a parts bin and have no
personal touch.
9. Good Dial Lumination
Not all
watches are expected to have dials that illuminate in the dark for low light
viewing, these are typically the more classic or formal watches. However,
almost all sport and casual watches have some type of luminant that is applied
on the hands as well as somewhere on the dial. The quality of luminant greatly
varies. Some is so impractical that it should not even be there. An example
being that you need to shine a bright light directly to the face of the watch
for a minute or so, and then the dial dimly glows for a few minutes.
Alternatively you have luminant that charges easily with exposed room or sun
light and glows for hours. Watches will never indicate the source of the
luminant, but look for LumiNova, or better yet SuperLumiNova if possible. An alternative
to luminant are watches that use tritium gas tubes. These tubes are made by
just one company in Switzerland and glow by themselves for almost 25-30 years.
Tritium gas tubes are not tough to find as a few watch brands almost exclusively use them and can be had for reasonable prices.
10. Consistent Pricing
The vast
majority of watches, especially at these price levels, are sold below retail
prices. The difference here is that you have authorized dealers and
unauthorized dealers. If for example you find a watch at an authorized dealer
for 500 and a little but father down the street you find the exact same model
for 350, then you know there is something wrong with the value of the watch.
The study of clocks, also known as horology, is a very complicated
thing to master. To make things easier for watch complications newbies, a
complication refers to features of a timepiece or a watch beyond minute hands,
seconds and hours. One has to note though that a watch or a timepiece that
indicates hours, minutes, and seconds is still known as a movement. How about
those with chronographs and those that display dates and have winding
mechanisms, are these considered complications? Unfortunately, these are not
sufficient to permit one to call a movement a complication if the timepiece
only contains what is mentioned above. So what is a complication then? Ultra
complicated watches are basically watches that have a lot of functions.
Complications are a watchmakers attempt to integrate a great number of things
inside a timepiece. This usually includes astronomical indications. In the 16th
century, the world of horology witnessed the making of many ultra complicated
watches. When one says ultra complicated, they are usually produced in very
limited numbers since they are very difficult to make. Some of these ultra
complicated watches were also built as unique instruments. Companies that make
such watches include Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet.
Needless to say, any additional
complication on a watch increases the price.
Here are some examples of watch
complications:
Alarm
Watches with an alarm function. It can ring
in the case of a mechanical watch or vibrate if it is a quartz watch.
Calendar
The calendar mechanism or function on a
watch can consist of a date only showing in a window through to a triple
calendar, showing the date, day and month. A combination of dial cut outs and
pointer hands may be used. The most complicated calendar mechanisms may be
mechanically programmed to show the year, and months including those with less
that 31 days; leap years can also be mechanically allowed for. Sometimes
referred to as perpetual calendars.
Annual Calendar
Automatically adjusts for months with
different lengths i.e. 30 days, 31 days etc. Also normally features indicators
for date, day of week, month and often moon phase. Does NOT make allowances for
leap year and the 4 year cycle like a Perpetual Calendar.
Perpetual Calendar
A perpetual calendar is a mechanism that
automatically takes into account the varying number of days in each month as
well as leap years. Many also possess a moon phase function with indicates the
waxing and waning of the moon. Most perpetual calendars are based on the
Gregorian calendar so it will not need correction for more than a century.
Other perpetual calendars can be secular perpetual calendars or Jewish
perpetual calendars. The perpetual calendar as inferred will display the day,
date, month, and leap year cycle. Some perpetual calendar like, the Audemars
Piguet Millenary Perpetual Calendar, also indicate calendar weeks. Obviously
the perpetual calendar is a highly intricate mechanism that presents the
watchmaker with a considerable challenge.
Chronograph
A chronograph is watch that is able to
measure independent time intervals. It is a sense a stopwatch within a watch.
This is indicated on subdials of the watch dials. Typically a chronograph has 3
subdials. One is the subsecond dial which indicates that the watch is running.
The more directly specifically important subdials indicate elapsed minutes and
elapsed hours.
Diver's
Watch
Divers' watches traditionally are large,
featuring a graduated rotating bezel and often a screw down winding crown.
Water resistant to 200m as a minimum, the modern diver's watch must confirm to
certain standards laid down for example by ISA in order to be classified as a
Scuba Divers Watch.
Dual
time or Multi-time
A watch that keeps two or more separate
times. This is usually indicated in the main dial and separate subdials, or in
the case of Jaeger Le Coultre's reverse, on the reverse side of the watch.
Equation
of Time
An equation of time watch shows the
difference between "true" solar time (that of Nature) and
"mean" solar time (that of Man). This rare and poetic complication is
usually combined with other astronomical indications.
The Earth makes an elliptical orbit around
the Sun; also, its axis is tilted from perpendicular to the plane of the
equator. For these two reasons, a "true" solar day, which is the
interval of time between two "true" noons when the Sun is at its
highest point in the sky, is never the same length over the course of the year.
It is exactly twenty-four hours long on just four days: April 15th, June 14th,
September 1st and December 24th. In an unchanging cycle, all the other days are
either longer or shorter. This difference, which ranges from less 16 minutes
and 23 seconds on November 4th to plus 14 minutes and 22 seconds on February
11th, is the "equation of time".
On the subject of innovations, watchmakers have devised systems for reading the
equation of time at a specific longitude and not for an entire time zone,
thereby further enhancing precision.
Flyback
A flyback chronograph is a chronograph with
a twist. Unlike typical chronographs which must be stopped before they can be
reset to zero a flyback can be returned to zero while it is moving enabling one
to time successive events without a undue lapse of time.
Foudroyante
A foudroyante uses a small dial that is
marked 0-8. The hand on the dial completes a sweep every second which is an
elapsed time of 1/8th of second for each number.
GMT
Universal time based on the Greenwich Meridian
used by the military and in aviation. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is a 24-hour
watch is a type of watch with an hour hand that completes a revolution every 24
hours. This type of watch is especially useful for airplane pilots, astronauts,
members of the military, or anyone who uses a 24-hour clock. Also referred to
as UTC: Universal Time Co-ordinate.Zulu Time: Yet another reference to GMT and
UTC! The use of this phrase is prevalent in civil aviation and military. Zulu
is the phonetic for Z which is for the Zero meridian.
Jump
Hour
Whereas a standard watch displays the time
by a pair (or sometimes three) hands pointing at fixed numbers, jump hour
watches have a wheel that rotates to display the correct time i.e. the numbers
themselves move. The watch will have a small window cutout on the dial so that
only the correct time is displayed.
Power
Reserve
The mechanical watch operated either by
automatic- or manual winding. In order to run at a regular rate a mechanical
timepiece needs to have at least 30 per cent of its mainspring wound]. An
automatic timepiece needs to be worn for about 1015 hours before it is fully
wound. The power reserve indicator displayed on the watch with automatic-
winding movement shows how long a watch will function when not worn. The one
displayed at a watch with the manual winding mechanism shows the time left for
its next winding.
Moon
phase
Simply, this is a cut-out on the dial with
a picture of the moon showing its current phase.
Regulator
A watch where the hour and minute hands are
not on the same, but separate, pinions; they are watches where the hour
function is off centre. Typically the watch will have a small 12 hour watch
face at the 12 position which denotes the hours, a minute hand central to the
watch face and usually a seconds hand in a circular face at the 6 position. The
watch is read by consulting each hand separately.
Repeater
The repeater strikes the number of hours
that have passed since 12 o'clock on a gong. Repeater watches were much harder
to make than repeater clocks; fitting the bells, wire gongs and complicated
striking works into a pocket watch movement was a feat of fine watch making. So
repeating watches were expensive luxuries and status symbols.
·Hour Repeater
The term 'repeater', without qualifiers, usually
means an hour repeater. On pressing the lever or button, the repeater strikes
the number of hours that have passed since 12 o'clock on a gong. This is the
only type of repeater that needs a single gong. No distinction is usually made
between AM and PM, so whether the time shown is 2:00am, 2:17am, 2:59am, or
2:59pm, the repeater will chime twice.
·Quarter Repeater
The quarter repeater strikes the number of
hours, and then the number of quarter hours since the last hour. The mechanism
uses 2 chimes of different tones. The low tone usually signals the hours, and
the high tone the quarter hours.
·Half-quarter Repeater
The half-quarter repeater can sound the
time to half a quarter hour, or 7½ minutes. It strikes hours and then quarter
hours, like the quarter repeater, then it uses a single tone in order to signal
if more than half of the current quarter hour has passed. For example, if the
time is 3:41 the mechanism will strike 3 low tones ("bong") to
represent 3 hours, then 2 sequence tones ("bing-bong") to represent 2
quarter hours, then one high tone ("bing") to indicate that more than
half of the third quarter hour has passed.
·Ten-minute Repeater
Conceived of as clock for the blindbefore
talking clocks, and patented (3,925,777) in 1974, this electronic repeater
called the Audocron was manufactured in the U.S. When touched it chimed out the
hour, then in a higher tone - the tens of minutes, followed by the minutes in
the original tone.
·Five-minute Repeater
The minute repeater works like the quarter
repeater, with the addition that, after the hours and quarter hours are
sounded, the number of minutes since the last quarter hour are sounded. This
requires three different sounds to distinguish hours, quarters, and minutes.
Often the hours are signaled by a low tone, the quarters are signaled by a
sequence of two tones ("bing-bong"), and the minutes by a high tone.
·Minute Repeater
The minute repeater works like the quarter
repeater, with the addition that, after the hours and quarter hours are
sounded, the number of minutes since the last quarter hour are sounded. This
requires three different sounds to distinguish hours, quarters, and minutes.
Often the hours are signaled by a low tone, the quarters are signaled by a
sequence of two tones ("bing-bong"), and the minutes by a high tone.
·Grande Sonnerie
A Grande Sonnerie is a quarter striking
mechanism combined with a repeater. On each quarter hour, it sounds the hours
and then the quarters on two gongs. In addition it can strike the hours at the
push of a button.
·Dumb Repeater
Used by the visually impaired and to tell
the time quietly in meetings and concerts, 'dumb' repeater watches did not
chime audibly, but instead produced vibrations. Instead of a gong, the hammer
struck the hours on a solid metal block attached to the case, producing a dull
'thud' that could be felt in the hand.
Retrograde
Rather than a typical display in which a
hand (such as a minute hand) completes a 360 degree revolution, a retrograde
display completes 180 degree journey before flying back instantaneously to
begin its travel once more.
Skeleton
Movement
The skeleton has had all excess metal
removed from its structure of plates and bridges transforming it into an
intricate artwork of beauty and delicacy that allows the movement to be seen
through the dial. Also sometimes referred to as exposition, which usually
referrers to only the back of the watch.
Rattrapante - Split Second Chronograph - Double
Chronograph
Split Second Chronograph is the most
complicated chronograph. Instead of the ordinary single central stopwatch hand,
two hands are superimposed over the other. When the chronograph is activated
both hands will start in unison. However upon pressing the split-second button
the lower hand will stop while the other hand continues forward enabling two
events to be timed at once. By pushing the button again, the stopped hand will
immediately catch up with the other hand and will continue to travel in unison.
This complex mechanism places great demands on watchmakers as this type of chronograph
undergoes much more violent mechanical stresses when used in its intended
manner.
Tachymeter
A scale used to measure units per hour.
Commonly found on the bezels of chronograph watches, an event is timed by using
the chronograph seconds hand. The hand is stopped when the event ends and the
hand will point to the number of units per hour that could be achieved.
Tourbillon
Considered a very special complication in a
mechanical watch. A Tourbillon mechanism compensates for the effects of gravity
on the balance thus improving the overall accuracy of the watch. Originally
invented by Abraham Louis Breguet, the watch's escapement (balance, lever and
escape wheel combined) is housed in a cage which rotates every 60 seconds.
Pocket watches were worn vertically and motionless in a gentleman's pocket, in
order to negate the effect of gravity, the Tourbillon originally was an attempt
to improve accuracy. The mechanism is usually exposed on the watch's face to
show it off.
·Double Tourbillon
The Double Tourbillon 30° features one
tourbillion carriage rotating once per minute and inclined at 30°, inside
another carriage which is rotating every four minutes.
·Gyrotourbillon or Double-axis Tourbillon
This Tourbillon turns around two axes, both
of which rotate once per minute. The whole Tourbillon is powered by a special
constant-force mechanism, called a remontoire. Thomas Prescher invented the
constant-force mechanism to equalize the effects of a wound and unwound
mainspring, friction, and gravitation. Thereby, even force is always supplied
to the oscillation regulating system of the double-axis Tourbillon
·Triple-axis Tourbillon
In the three axis Tourbillon movement the
3rd (external) cage has a unique form which provides the possibility of using
jewel bearings everywhere - instead of ball-bearings.
·Quadruple Tourbillon
Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel (QDT),
which uses two Double-Tourbillons working independently. A spherical
differential connects the four rotating carriages, distributing torque between
two wheels rotating at different speeds.
·Flying Tourbillon
Rather than being supported by a bridge, or
cock, at both the top and bottom, the flying Tourbillon is cantilevered, being
only supported from one side.
·Open Heart
There are many "Tourbillon"
fake/replicas of premium brand watches that emulate this feature with the
oscillating balance wheel visible through the watch dial; however, these are
not Tourbillons. This feature is often referred to as "open heart".
The history
of Rolex is inextricably linked to the visionary spirit of Hans Wilsdorf, its
founder. The young man entered the world of Swiss watchmaking in the early 20th
century, at a time when the pocket watch was the order of the day. He began to
dream of a watch worn on the wrist. Wristwatches were not very precise at the
time, but Hans Wilsdorf foresaw that they could become both elegant and
reliable. To convince the public of the reliability of his resolutely
innovative timepieces, he equipped them with small, very precise movements
manufactured by a Swiss watchmaking company in Bienne.
The year was 1905. Three
years later, Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark Rolex. In 1926, a major step was taken with the
creation of the worlds first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch. This watch
named the Oyster featured a hermetically sealed case which provided optimal
protection for the movement. The following year the Oyster crossed the English
Channel unscathed worn by a young English swimmer, Mercedes Gleitze. The swim
lasted over 10 hours and the watch remained in perfect working order at the end
of it. The triumph led to the concept of the Testimonee, adventurous men and
women, achievers whose exploits and daring would, in time, become so closely
associated with Rolex. In 1931, Rolex invented and patented the worlds first
self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. This ingenious system is at the
origin of every modern automatic watch. In the early 1950s, thanks to the
perfect mastery of chronometric precision and water resistance, Rolex developed
professional watches that served as tools and whose functions went far beyond
simply telling time. These watches were intended for new professional
activities, such as deep-sea diving, aviation, mountain climbing and scientific
exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch guaranteed
waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). These watches generated lasting
enthusiasm and became known as the watches of achievers. In 1953, equipped with
an Oyster Perpetual, the expedition led by Sir John Hunt, Sir Edmund Hillary
and Tenzing Norgay was the first to reach the summit of Everest.
Personal Comment:
Clearly the
inventor of necessary luxury. Not high-end, not haute horlogerie, but rather
plain solid luxury. 800.000 pieces produced every year, with a capacity to
increase up to 1, 1 million, with still unbeaten resale value. Year on year the
number one on the list of the most sought after watches. Along with its Daytona
and Submariner, Rolex is the most popular watch brand on earth. Are they really
the best watches on earth?Of course
not. But their price/attractiveness/quality ratio is unique. Technically, these
watches are solid and unrefined, with machine made finishes and legendary Swiss
reliability. Nothing to write home about, but very consistent work throughout.
The Oyster
Perpetual Submariner is the quintessential divers watch, the benchmark in its
genre. Introduced in 1953 during the pioneering era for scuba diving, it was
the first watch to be water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet). This iconic
timepiece has since evolved with a series of patented Rolex technical
innovations, guaranteeing its reliability and precision down to depths of 300 meters
(1,000 feet). At home in the oceans, where it remains an indispensable
instrument for every diver, the Submariner has also conquered terra firma as
the watch of action with a rugged elegance of its own. The Submariner is
available with and without date function.
The Oyster case
is a central part of Rolexs history. Clamped shut like an oyster shell, it
could survive under water thanks to two major innovations: a screw-down back
and bezel and a screw-down waterproof winding crown. Invented by Rolex in 1926,
the Oyster case was put to a real-life test a year later when Mercedes Gleitze,
a young sportswoman, swam the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster. After
more than 10 hours in the cold water, her watch remained fully functional,
firmly establishing Rolexs legendary underwater expertise. When in 1953 Sir
Edmund Hillary and his sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount
Everest, they were wearing a Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
The Oyster
Perpetual Submariners robust and functional design swiftly became iconic. With
their subtly redesigned Oyster case, distinctive dial with large luminescent
hour markers, graduated rotatable Cerachrom bezel and solid link Oyster
bracelet, the latest generation Submariner and Submariner Date are firmly in
line with the original model launched in 1953. Equally at home underwater and
at a gala dinner, the Submariner models set new standards of robustness,
reliability, comfort and timeless sporting style.
The Submariner
and Submariner Date models are equipped with calibre 3130 and calibre 3135
respectively, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and
manufactured by Rolex. Like all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3130 and 3135
are certified Swiss chronometers,
a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed
the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. They are fitted
with a Parachrom hairspring, offering greater resistance to shocks and to
temperature variations. Their architecture, in common with all Oyster watch
movements, makes them singularly reliable.
Personal note:
I actually own a
Rolex Submariner (the no date version, more original), but Im not that crazy
to spend 5.650 on it. The great part about buying a Rolex Sub is that there is
so much choice. The secondhand and vintage markets are huge! Why buy a new one
when you can buy a perfect secondhand one for 4.000? Why is it so expensive? Well, if you buy a watch from an indepentdent watch company, who still makes it's own movements en uses only the best materials and has done so for over 60 years.. it's normal that you pay extra. That's why a Breitling or an Omega can never ask the same price as a Rolex.
That being said..
The Rolex Sub is one of those basics you need when having a serious watch
collection. Because it has been around for over 60 years and it has hardly changed
a bit, the resale value is enormous.
The Rolex
Submariner is not part of haute horlogerie, but it is a solid luxury watch.
Some say it is the best watch in the world. Is it?.. No, of course not! But its
price/attractiveness/quality ratio is unique!
In todays blingbling-world
lead by Hublot, Ulysse Nardin and those oversized IWCs, the simple and yet elegant
Submariner is a breath of fresh air.
By definition luxury watches are going to be higher-end items that will
cost more than basic watches. Nevertheless, it is good to know what type of
money youll need to spend when your wrist has earned its first fine timepiece.
Why do you want a luxury watch to begin with? Whether it is professional
performance or a sense of class and status, high-end watches are emotionally
gratifying. I like high-end watches because they are made with quality, and can
be one of the only things even very wealthy people own that are potentially
hand-assembled and highly detailed.
In a world of mass produced and disposable
items, a beautiful luxury timepiece is a wonderful way to assert your
personality and carry around an appreciation for tradition and craftsmanship
for everyone else to see. There is no specific price point where luxury
begins and mainstream ends, but you are generally going to spend at least 1.000
or so when buying your first luxury watch. How high does that number go? How
high can you count?
Categorie:Luxury Watch Brands: The Buyers' Guide Tags:Buyers' Guide Intro
Welkom bij The Watch Aficionado
For most of us, watches are a tool. Specifically, watches are a tool
that tell us when its five minutes to happy hour, when its five minutes to
the end of happy hour and how long weve been in jail after violently insisting
that happy hour continue. But for many men, watches are regarded as the No.1
male accessory because they encapsulate coveted masculine attributes: namely
style, engineering and status.
And because this thinking-mans accessory shows no sign of being supplanted
by something less intricate -- like sweatbands -- a solid background in watches
is a necessity for any chap looking to elevate his profile.
Thankfully, Ive taken the time (pun unavoidable) to compose a primer of
everything a men's watch
novice needs to know in order to stay afloat in the sometimes cutthroat world
of watch aficionados. So read on and make sure that you never get stuck
trying to convince anyone that your calculator watch is a personal GPS. If you have any questions for me about haute horlogerie, or what you think is haute horlogerie, please feel free to bother me via watch_aficionado@outlook.be (English or Dutch).
