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The Watch Aficionado
Voor de horlogeliefhebber
21-06-2013
Rolex
The Story by Rolex
The history
of Rolex is inextricably linked to the visionary spirit of Hans Wilsdorf, its
founder. The young man entered the world of Swiss watchmaking in the early 20th
century, at a time when the pocket watch was the order of the day. He began to
dream of a watch worn on the wrist. Wristwatches were not very precise at the
time, but Hans Wilsdorf foresaw that they could become both elegant and
reliable. To convince the public of the reliability of his resolutely
innovative timepieces, he equipped them with small, very precise movements
manufactured by a Swiss watchmaking company in Bienne.
The year was 1905. Three
years later, Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark Rolex. In 1926, a major step was taken with the
creation of the worlds first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch. This watch
named the Oyster featured a hermetically sealed case which provided optimal
protection for the movement. The following year the Oyster crossed the English
Channel unscathed worn by a young English swimmer, Mercedes Gleitze. The swim
lasted over 10 hours and the watch remained in perfect working order at the end
of it. The triumph led to the concept of the Testimonee, adventurous men and
women, achievers whose exploits and daring would, in time, become so closely
associated with Rolex. In 1931, Rolex invented and patented the worlds first
self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. This ingenious system is at the
origin of every modern automatic watch. In the early 1950s, thanks to the
perfect mastery of chronometric precision and water resistance, Rolex developed
professional watches that served as tools and whose functions went far beyond
simply telling time. These watches were intended for new professional
activities, such as deep-sea diving, aviation, mountain climbing and scientific
exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch guaranteed
waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). These watches generated lasting
enthusiasm and became known as the watches of achievers. In 1953, equipped with
an Oyster Perpetual, the expedition led by Sir John Hunt, Sir Edmund Hillary
and Tenzing Norgay was the first to reach the summit of Everest.
Personal Comment:
Clearly the
inventor of necessary luxury. Not high-end, not haute horlogerie, but rather
plain solid luxury. 800.000 pieces produced every year, with a capacity to
increase up to 1, 1 million, with still unbeaten resale value. Year on year the
number one on the list of the most sought after watches. Along with its Daytona
and Submariner, Rolex is the most popular watch brand on earth. Are they really
the best watches on earth?Of course
not. But their price/attractiveness/quality ratio is unique. Technically, these
watches are solid and unrefined, with machine made finishes and legendary Swiss
reliability. Nothing to write home about, but very consistent work throughout.
The Oyster
Perpetual Submariner is the quintessential divers watch, the benchmark in its
genre. Introduced in 1953 during the pioneering era for scuba diving, it was
the first watch to be water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet). This iconic
timepiece has since evolved with a series of patented Rolex technical
innovations, guaranteeing its reliability and precision down to depths of 300 meters
(1,000 feet). At home in the oceans, where it remains an indispensable
instrument for every diver, the Submariner has also conquered terra firma as
the watch of action with a rugged elegance of its own. The Submariner is
available with and without date function.
The Oyster case
is a central part of Rolexs history. Clamped shut like an oyster shell, it
could survive under water thanks to two major innovations: a screw-down back
and bezel and a screw-down waterproof winding crown. Invented by Rolex in 1926,
the Oyster case was put to a real-life test a year later when Mercedes Gleitze,
a young sportswoman, swam the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster. After
more than 10 hours in the cold water, her watch remained fully functional,
firmly establishing Rolexs legendary underwater expertise. When in 1953 Sir
Edmund Hillary and his sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount
Everest, they were wearing a Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
The Oyster
Perpetual Submariners robust and functional design swiftly became iconic. With
their subtly redesigned Oyster case, distinctive dial with large luminescent
hour markers, graduated rotatable Cerachrom bezel and solid link Oyster
bracelet, the latest generation Submariner and Submariner Date are firmly in
line with the original model launched in 1953. Equally at home underwater and
at a gala dinner, the Submariner models set new standards of robustness,
reliability, comfort and timeless sporting style.
The Submariner
and Submariner Date models are equipped with calibre 3130 and calibre 3135
respectively, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and
manufactured by Rolex. Like all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3130 and 3135
are certified Swiss chronometers,
a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed
the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) tests. They are fitted
with a Parachrom hairspring, offering greater resistance to shocks and to
temperature variations. Their architecture, in common with all Oyster watch
movements, makes them singularly reliable.
Personal note:
I actually own a
Rolex Submariner (the no date version, more original), but Im not that crazy
to spend 5.650 on it. The great part about buying a Rolex Sub is that there is
so much choice. The secondhand and vintage markets are huge! Why buy a new one
when you can buy a perfect secondhand one for 4.000? Why is it so expensive? Well, if you buy a watch from an indepentdent watch company, who still makes it's own movements en uses only the best materials and has done so for over 60 years.. it's normal that you pay extra. That's why a Breitling or an Omega can never ask the same price as a Rolex.
That being said..
The Rolex Sub is one of those basics you need when having a serious watch
collection. Because it has been around for over 60 years and it has hardly changed
a bit, the resale value is enormous.
The Rolex
Submariner is not part of haute horlogerie, but it is a solid luxury watch.
Some say it is the best watch in the world. Is it?.. No, of course not! But its
price/attractiveness/quality ratio is unique!
In todays blingbling-world
lead by Hublot, Ulysse Nardin and those oversized IWCs, the simple and yet elegant
Submariner is a breath of fresh air.
By definition luxury watches are going to be higher-end items that will
cost more than basic watches. Nevertheless, it is good to know what type of
money youll need to spend when your wrist has earned its first fine timepiece.
Why do you want a luxury watch to begin with? Whether it is professional
performance or a sense of class and status, high-end watches are emotionally
gratifying. I like high-end watches because they are made with quality, and can
be one of the only things even very wealthy people own that are potentially
hand-assembled and highly detailed.
In a world of mass produced and disposable
items, a beautiful luxury timepiece is a wonderful way to assert your
personality and carry around an appreciation for tradition and craftsmanship
for everyone else to see. There is no specific price point where luxury
begins and mainstream ends, but you are generally going to spend at least 1.000
or so when buying your first luxury watch. How high does that number go? How
high can you count?
Categorie:Luxury Watch Brands: The Buyers' Guide Tags:Buyers' Guide Intro
Welkom bij The Watch Aficionado
For most of us, watches are a tool. Specifically, watches are a tool
that tell us when its five minutes to happy hour, when its five minutes to
the end of happy hour and how long weve been in jail after violently insisting
that happy hour continue. But for many men, watches are regarded as the No.1
male accessory because they encapsulate coveted masculine attributes: namely
style, engineering and status.
And because this thinking-mans accessory shows no sign of being supplanted
by something less intricate -- like sweatbands -- a solid background in watches
is a necessity for any chap looking to elevate his profile.
Thankfully, Ive taken the time (pun unavoidable) to compose a primer of
everything a men's watch
novice needs to know in order to stay afloat in the sometimes cutthroat world
of watch aficionados. So read on and make sure that you never get stuck
trying to convince anyone that your calculator watch is a personal GPS. If you have any questions for me about haute horlogerie, or what you think is haute horlogerie, please feel free to bother me via watch_aficionado@outlook.be (English or Dutch).
