Hello readers,

Have hit already Addis Abeba and have , finally, found a good, normal hotel as I am used to.   Hopefully the wifi works ok so I can upload the blog to-day being Thursday 1st Feb.

Last one was Sunday 28th Jan at the Mayleko lodge in Gondar.  It was reasonable and my opinion was different from the halleluja remarks in the guestbook.  Often made by rather ignorent  tourists who like anything different from home even if it is as unpleasant as can be. 

Those tourisst see a country from a bus ( cocon )  , surrounded by a whole group of peers and protected by an organisation and guides.  They meet only people who know that the tourists will drop money and thus they are all friendly.

For me that is totally different.  Travelling on my own I have to mix with the locals and do what they do, look for shelter, look for food, look for fuel etc hence I am very much vulnerable and they know that.  Than you notice that the locals are not always that friendly ,especially the teeners and twentiers.   The elderly show respect but not the young ones.  Than the very young ones, they roam the streets in gangs and  appoach you agressively for money.  Ones you do not give anything, they throw stones, even while riding.  I have read and heard of overlanders, travelling by bike, car or bicycle and being harrassed and stoned on many occasions while the parents were laughing at a distance.  Therefore I meet overlanders who love Ethiopia and others who hate it.   Yesterday I got a stone against my arm but the thick leather jacket protects me , same for the helmet and front screen.

It is amazing to see the number of youth gangs  hanging around everywhere and doing nothing just looking for an opportunity to go into, like an old overlander on a big bike stopping in front of them and being vulnerable.  Once I was tempted to give one a proper knock in the face since he was very agressive but , fortunately , the traffic moved on and problem solved.

Therefore I hate riding in  these traffic jams in a large city like Addis Abeba or the larger towns where traffic often comes to a standstill at markets and busstations, both at the official ones but more at those famous unofficial stops which can be anywhere.

I wonder what the future will bring for these youngsters.  I think that sooner or later these gangs will turn violent against any possible money source.   Let’ s watch it , I am sure to be right.

Anyway, nothing thrilling happened in Gondar.  Went to buy an SIM card and looked for an Insurance company for a Yellow card but they did not speak English and all failed.  Tomorrow I go here in Addis  to get one, if they understand what I want.

From Gondar I wanted to go slow to Addis in 3 days for 800 km.   First to Bahir Dar at 188 km.   I hit BD by 10.30 after a beauty of a road.  Super steering through the bends over the hills and mountains up to 3500 m high on a perfect new tarmac.  Can’t be better !

So I hit the throttle and went 200 km further at Debre Markos and found a grumpy hotel but manageable.

Slow wifi but was  able to change my return flight to Brussels and pay the company. 

That road was also good but older so watch for the occasional bad holes and sudden disastrious speed humps, too high to go over but they are in sections so I can drive in between , but only when you see them in time and I almost failed.   Hitting one means flying off the bike and hoping that all will turn out well but I doubt that.

Therefore I tell myself constantly not to ride as in Europe but this  is Africa.  Slow down and survive or  else….!

Yesterday , Tuesday I took off by 07.30  for 300 km to Addis.  The first 100 km were fine but than hell broke loose.  I came to the edge of a plateau and looked down where I could not see the bottom of the valley.  At least a km in height to go down by mountain roads, steep and only dirty hairpins.  But that’s no trouble for me, the Stelvio is my friend, but here the tarmac was transformed into a lunapark.  Deep cuts by the lorries and tarmac pushed up in the bends, broken tarnac, big stones to fill the holes , etc.  It was unbelieveable.  Of course the heat in summer breaks a new road up immediately with overloaded lorries going up  and down.

So I went slowly down and it was steep,  I put the bike in neutral, why,  to safe fuel,  I was low on fuel and nowhere a fuelstation and I did not foresee anyone soon.  Also I did not know once being in the valley what would be next, a nice flat road out of the vallley or grimping up the  mountain on the other side with the same height, bends and bad, very bad road.   I had to guess but did not dare.

I just concentrated on the going down job and that was enough.  Felt sorry again for the bike and had to be carefull not to hit a  high stone with my engine sump or low lying oilpan which are unprotected.. My 1980 HD had an engine guard underneath since not all roads in the US were tarred but now they do not have it anymore.   Stupid of me not to make one.  I will  do now when I am in Holland after measuring the bike here.  I will have a alu plate cut with some slots to fix it with hoseclamps to the frame tubes.  Better that than nothing.   Sure I will meet more stones on the way.

Anyway, I was coming down the mountain with lorries going very slow so no problem but those damned busses fly anywhere.  Carefull  Paul !!

Once I hit the bottom of the valley there was nothing, no village no fuel , just nothing.

Soon I noticed that  I did not go out of the valley the low way but again , as feared , straight up the other side with the same conditions, but now also lorries at standstill which cannot make it and block everything.  In that case a bike is an advantage since I only need one track.

I also feared for my fuel since going up a mountain with more than half a ton in weight takes some fuel so I did it very carefully and not to many revs to keep the consumption under control.  Also the altitude will consume more fuel.

I got up the mountain meeting monkeys and , halleluja,  a bit better road donated by the Japaneese.

Thanks them for that !!

Now I was on a high plateau again and hoped for no more valleys but only for fuel.

No station I met had benzin so I had to find it the African way.  I stopped by a Tuk Tuk and asked the driver for fuel.  He said nothing, no fuel in town.  Than I asked him for the jerrycan fuel station and he asked if I had money.  After confrirmation he took off and I followed.  He brought me to the end of the village to an unfinished building as you see all over Afica and he shouted whereafter a man came out with a jerrycan and sold me 5 liters of clean fuel for one dollar a liter.  3X the price but still just a dollar for one.

I took off and through good and bad roads I approached Addis and found fuel at 25 km before Addis having left about a quater of a litre , not enough to reach Addis but again I was saved by the bell.

On the way I had one problem that I wanted to pee but you get no chance to find a lonely spot to do it.

There is just no 10 meters without a person along the road and that for 300 km.  The moment you stop immediately they come out from the woodwork and start staring at you or like the very young ones asking for money.  Bad sign !!

I think those stupid  tourists in those buses  give these nice little brown eyed kids what they look for and spoii them all along.

For Addis I had planned to set me up in the Taitu hotel,  See their site which looks better than reality.

Its the oldest in town and it shows  Must have been a pleasant Majestic place once but not anymore.

Now derelict and run down completely.  I feared for many cockroaches but did not see one.

I took a room since the bad roads had worn me out , especially the left arm that controls the non hydraulic  clutch, just an oldfashioned cable to pull on..  Makes you Biceps like in the gym !!

I had some geaorgeous Wahlias and an undercooked pizza and no tele or proper wifi and the place was deserted by 20.00 hrs so I hit the sack at 20.30 and slept well until some noisemakers woke me up at 04.30 AM.. Still did almost 8 hrs of sleep and that’s a lot for me.

I told the reception woman that I would stay if it was nice but go if it was nio and so I went.

Booked with the smartphone another hotel closer to the airport and more expensive at 65 dollars a day.  Must be better.

And it is.  Nice hotel with good wifi that needed VPN and was installed by the porter, a young lad, who was willing to help the old  helpless baba .  Works great.

I had planned to fly home on the 15th Feb  and return 2nd March with Linda for a 2 weeks holiday here , not with the bike but car, plane or other.

Now I am here already the 1st.  I changed my flight to  next week iso the 15th  straight to Brussels with ETH.  Nice 9 hrs flight direct.

But I have to parc the bike somewhere.     I contacted my former collegue who has built this brewery while I was Account Manager also for Ethiopia.

He has built it and now continues enlarging it since sales seem to boom.

He said he would ask the brewery manager who I know quite well since I had to interview him for this job.

But all works out well and they allow me to parc the bike in the brewery, possibly, in a containerr.  I will Phone the Installation manager tonight to work out when and where.

So I will rest here to go home Mondaynight and come back only on the 2nd with Linda.

She flies back home the 17th and I will continu my journey as from that moment to Kenia and so on.

May be one more blog and than I stop it till second half of March.

I find it sometimes a pity to write in English since it is not my motherlanguage.  In Dutch I can express myself much better to make statements, jokes or other wise.   But , of course, I do it for my English spaeking friends who are not fluent in Dutch.

I also need some new reading glasses .  These HEMA ones I use now are too old and overdue.

On the other hand glasses must be cheap since i eat them, sit on them, loose them etc.

Am now very thursty but I have a little fridge on my right hand side and without getting up I have a Wahlia at hand, no glass please and  prosit  and till the next one.

02-02-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Hello Back in the Blog.

It is now Sunday and I am sitting in the Mayleko  Lodge in Gondar,  Ethiopia.  Yes, a bit further than anticipated but, you know, once I go its hard to stop.   Only tiredness is a killer and will stop me.

Also I was curious how it would be at the border.  Hopefully no horrible procedural nonsens again.  Have had enough of that.

On Friday I still wanted to stay resting in Khartoum but on that morning I looked out of the window at 7 and saw no traffic.  Hey, its week end here. They go to the mosque.   A good day to ride with less traffic and so I took off at 8.30 to Wad Madani at 188.  That was my plan, nice short 3 hr drive .   No I get there and it was onky 11.30.

Decision was fast, PULL the throttle and go for the next 236 to Gedaref.

Road was ok, enough fuel  and no troubles.  I arrived there at 15.30 hrs.   Search for the “ BEST “ hotel in town and found the El Watemaliki.  Big old east european style block .   Hardly any guests and only chicken to eat again.   Nicely charcoaled so no stomach problems.

The next day Saturday I took of for the 160 km to the border.  70 km was excellent, next 50 km was horrendous and I felt so sorry for the bike everytime I did not see a bloody pothole.   It wears you out also but you cannot get careless.  The bike might break in 2 if you hit a big one at speed.

I arrive at the very busy border not with people crossing but just hanging around, possibly looking for a stupid like me and ripp me off.  But they do not know me and very quickly notice that there’s no chance for that.  Also all my valuables are packed on my body so they should cut me up to get to it.

Another rule is to have , at least, your CC and cash + passport on your body so you can go anywhere if and when neccessary. More important than your underwear , I say.

On the Sudanese side I was directed to a hut for the customs.  They checked chassis nr and engine nr, looked a bit in the luggage and signed the Carnet de Passage.  15 minutes and off to Immigration and security.  No problems , all-in order and 15 min later I had a stamped PP and off to the Ethiopian side.

Directed first to immigration.  Also in a shed you do not want to keep your pigs in and just as dirty.

2 young chaps helped me and stamped the PP within 5 minutes. Holland and football always works.    Van Basten and Gullit for the elderly and Robin van P.and Robbe for the yoiung ones .  Off to the other side of the road with even more gruelling accommodations for customs.  Nice young lady helped me to fill the Carnet while she said that it is not really required in ETH.  I checked that later in the list of countries and she was right.  Now I have to have it stamped again at the exit in Moyale.

She checked all bike numbers, luggage and after 15 minites I took off into Ethipia.  I can tell you I was happy that  the border s… t. as at Wadi Halfa was over.   Both sides within an hour.   Super !!

Had planned to go to Gondar since there is no hotel before that.  Was rather worn out , because of some border stress and the road to G seemed endless.  But the riding was great, nice mountain roads like in the heart of Spain.   The winding roads and with good tarmac.   Hardly any traffic but many fuel lorries.  I saw six fuel combinations, that is lorry + trailer completely burned out and not long ago.

Wonder wich side they carry the fuel, to or from Sudan or just for the border town. 

Approaching the town you get the usual increase of people on the road but more than that are the animals roaming on the road.  You must be very carefull not to hit a cow, goat, dog or sheep.  The people seem to live all along such road.  Going to Addis this might be confirmed.  You just ride all the way through towns.  In fact in Belgium is the same .  Houses are built there all  along a Steenweg.

I had booked a lodge that, I thought , was on the entrance to town.  Could not find it, traffic was horrible with all those tuk tuks that jump like flies.  I asked a student for a good hotel with wifi.  He directed me up a hill to the Goha hotel and I put me up there.  Good choice but wifi mediocre .   Beautifull  view over the city.

I decided to move to the lodge that I had booked for 1st Feb and drove to the road back to the border.  Google Maps showed as if it was there.  Went for 30 km on that beautifull road and did not find it.  Rode back to the junction south of Gondar and asked a police woman who directed me nicely on the parallel road to the airport and 2 km further found  the lodge.  Less impressive than they show it on the site.

Wifi was off since there was no power.  They asked for 90 dollars while B. com indicated 45 dollars for a standard room.

They called the woman owner in Addis and she agreed for me to have a luxury room for 70 and I agreed.  Wifi is back now so I can enjoy myself with the laptop.

Tomorrow I go for an insurance card, so called yellow card like our green card for all the coming countries up to SA.   Handy but no value since an accident is a matter of cash. But I must have an Insurance to avoid hassle at a police roadblock.

Also needed a local SIM card and biscuits cause the ones from AH are finished.   Stll a pot of Calve but the Kanjer stroopwafels ended today.   Pity, I love them and give plenty energy together with a real coca cola.

Plan is to ride on as from Tuesday for the 750 km to Addis in 3 days, maybe.

To be continued.

One other thing that has really struck me all along from Cairo to the Sudanese border  with Ethiopia is the plastics everywhere , hanging in huge quantities on anything it can cling to.   Every bush, tree, fence, pole, grass is litered with plastic hanging on it.   Most towns dumb their refuse outside the town somewhere in the desert and put it on fire.  That smell you meet at every town and city depending on the wind and I hate it.

Wonder what the future will bring because this is not going to stop.  It will get worse.

Let’s see how Ethiopia deals with this refuse and the other countries to follow.

It is 16.05 hrs, its  nice and warm and my mouth is dry like sandpaper.  High time for a Wahlia.

Cheers.

28-01-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Hi everybody,

It’s now Thursday 25th Jan and I am in Khartoum since yesterday.  In my earlier blog I had stated that I would be staying in Atbarah for an extra day but in the evening of  Tuesday I looked around and got the creeps of that hotel and dirty room with another horrible bathroom smelling after all that goes through.

it.   Told myself , if I can get holsd of petrol wednesdaymorning I am off to Shendi = hafway to Khartoum.

Indeed, I found petrol before 9 and took off to Shendi.  The road was no comparison to the desert roads, much more traffic, mainly lorries and long disatnce busses and therefore a much more bumpy one with the occasional bad stretches and dangerous potholes.   However I flew through since with a bike one can avoid a pothole while with a car you avoid one on the left side but hit one on the right side.

The lorries did behave reasonably correct sine they are heavily loaded and can’t go fast and manouvre quickly.  On the contrary those busses you must watch out for.  They drive like mad and do not see any other road user.  As a bike I try to stay away from them since I am no match except for speed.

They are just ludicrous as many bus drivers around the world, even those from “ De Lijn”  in Belgium drive like mad with , often, no passengers inside so why the hurry ?

I arrived at Shendi at 11 AM already and felt good so I pulled the throttle and continued to Khartoum that I reached by 14.00 hrs.   It was 30 C and the bike did not like the slow traffic.while my underworld was also cooked or fired.   Quicly went to the area where i had seen hotels on a map and found The Regency, an old English heritage where , since that time, not much has changed or was maintained.

I do not disloke such old hotels provided its clean and not smelling after wet and rotten carpets and  leaking bathrooms.   Not the case, quite acceptable so I dove in.  Rather tired from those  4 days of suffering.     I ate like a dockworker , nice  veggie sprigrolls, lambcutlets and fruitsalad.   Was nicely filled up.  Went to bed by 10 Pm but had problems to catch sleep since my room was next to the disco of the neighbours.   Noise till 1 Am and after that I slept irregularly.  Could also be from the withdrawelsymptoms of no alc in Sudan.  Who knows ?

Khartoum is the usual big, dusty, hectic city with traffic jams all day through so I have the bike parked in front of the hotel entrance because the manager wants to show it off and I will not move it until I leave on a nice cool morning which is good for the bike.  The town reminds me of Kaduna in Nigeria.

I was told in Wadi Hakfa, only on my 2nd visit for the lost paper,  that In Khartoum I had to register again at the  airport.  So this morning I took off with a completely rotten taxi to the airport.   Once there I found some officials and asked about the registration.  They brought me to an office with a man in uniform with lots of gold stars on it.  He and also the others looked as if I was from outer space and as if I was the first one to do this while I know that all overlanders do this.  Strange feeling and agian I was told there was a problem.  I belivee its the word they know best or is  their  only Engllish one.  My reply was for them to solve it since I KNOW NOTHING,  QUE ?!!

I had to go to other offices at another airport and an office in town. Told them I would not do this without somebody from them to come with me.  It is their  cooked up nonsens, right ?

And yes a big guy in uniform without stras or stripes went with me to a building at about 100 meters .  Witioin 15 minutes all was done, I paid 535 SDG = 40 dollars and I had another stamp and sticker in my PP.   But before that they had produced again 5 papers and 4 copies of , God knows what, before the sticker was issued.  Fortunately I did not get all those papers to carry again.   Where did they learn this absolute useless way of administration.   I think its to keep people at work otherwise they roam the streets.

Now back in the hotel I do this blog and look out for lunch ( without a nice cold beer ).

For the rest I chill, make coipies of the papers I need for the Sudan / Ethipian border and enjoy my crackers with pindakaas, yes , all still from Belgium same as my dutch stroopwafels.  Trick is to take enough to your liking and not eat them all at once.

I  had  the plan to stay till Monday but I am now already down to leaving Saturday but to cut the km’s to the border in 3 piececs of approx 250 each.   Hope the hotels are not of the sort that I had before geting here.

One thing that has struck me since the border with Egypt and that is the high number of cow skeletons along the road in various stages of decay, from fresh to real skeleton.  This is because Egypt has almost a continues supply through  Wadi Halfa from within Sudan.  I met a cattle trader in Abu Simbel who had just struck a deal for a 1000 cows in one go.   That is approx 25 full trailers with 40 cows each on it , standing loose so they fight, fall over and die on the long journey in the scoring heat.  Quite a number do not survive and they are thrown out of the lorries on the raod side so one gets a constant  rotten smel and  death aroma in the mouth.  Do not eat your lunch along the road side cause the flieis will also come for you.

The cows are not allowed to enter Egypt alive so they are slaughtered  on arrival in Abu Simbel.  I have seen many ways of slautering cows, sheep and horses in Africa and one must have a steel stomage to watch that.  I would not like to see that place of carnage in Abu Simbel.  Not one of those cows want to die while they smell the blood of those already gone.   They have never felt a rope so will fight like hell and they are big with very dangerous horns that cut you open when they  attack you.  I know the  African solution for this  but will not explain that in this blog.    In fact, I should forget that I have ever seen it.

One more remark to make is that I am surprised about the fact that nobody has asked me for money or bribe since i landed in Cairo till now.  Not at the borders, not on the road , not in towns and even not at roadblocks.  Surprising.  There must be stern  instructions from above.

At the roadblocks they ask often for my PP. However the guys are mostly in civil clothes.  I have now learned not to accept that.  I ask for their ID before showing my PP.  No ID no PP and it works.  I had 2 occasions yesterday that the guy let me go without seeing my PP.

Also I tell them that I am a tourist and not terrorist or criminal sio they should be nice to me.  That also works, ceatinly for the elderly ones amongst them.

It’s now 13.00 hrs and I go for lunch.

Than a nappy , if I can and  off to the copier for my document copies.

Bye.

25-01-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

It is now Tuesday 23rd but I had no wifi for 2 days so I have to go back to Sunday 21st since a lot happened on that day.  I had forseen to reach Dongola at 400 km and one never knows how good the road is and possible other conditions. 

But in the night I suddenly remembered  that something must have gone wrong with my Alenis Registration form that I filled in on the Sudanese side and folded up in my passport.  After that I went to immigration to have the pp stamped.  Now, in the night I remembered that the form was not there anymore on returning the pp.  At that moment I did not realise this.   I checked all pockets but did not find it .  For that there is only one solution and that’s to return to the border at 25 km to get the form or a new one, if possible.  It was the right decision since I notice now that at every roadblock they only look at that paper and not the PP.   It’s a sort of travel  permit that indicates my route through Sudan.

I was at the border at 9 but it only opened at  10.  I called the fixer and he said he was on his way.

Before he arrived there was a young customs officer who spoke some English which is helpfull I can tell you.   I explained the loss of the paper in the immigration office.  He asked my name and went off returning after only 5 minutes with my original  paper.   Can tell you I was more than happy and quickly took of to Dongola at 425 km from there.  Nice road , no traffic and the wind in the back.

I had tried to get more fuel in Wadi Halfa since I was not full due to the border trip but In WH they said there is fuel halfway at ABRI and I believed it cause I wanted to go.  I should know now after 50 years Afrca that such message is only to please me.

I arrived in ABRI and , of course, nothing like fuel so I could not make it to Dongola.    Suddenly a man comes up and says that he might find some in town at the market so he calls somebody.  This person showed up and was the guesthouse manager of the only one in town and where you should only go if you do not want to sleep under the bridge.   But the best was he spoke English, sort of but he told me that he had phoned and nowhere fuel to be found.   But he said that the  town security officers have a

Reserve stock for emergencies so we could go there and plea for 10 liters which is what I wanted to be safe.

He drove a car from 1946, a Morris Minor and he took me along in it.  It showed its age and African service and repairs.  No more suspension, other engine and only max 30 km /hr, but it was a bit of fun in my nasty situation.   We arrived at the station and he went in , came back and said only 4 liters.  I said , is not enough , I need 10.   Go in yourself and make a dramatic story to sustain an emergency and ask for 10.

I came intoo a small and dark office with a bed and a desk + chair.   In the chair was the officer in charge with desert fighting costume and 3 big guys lying together on the bed.  Here they have beds evrywhere and like to leay on them for as long as they can. 

I made a story of a relative that I have to go and see urgnetly and need to be quikly in Khartoum.  He murmelled a bit and said it was ok but only with a can and not a car or bike at the petrolstaion since he does not want  to be accused of anything.   We looked for a container but did not find a small one in the market.  Suddenly the guy found one , blew on it and siad it was ok.  I looked into it since the engine does not fancy sand and other rubbish.  But it looked ok.

We filled it at the station and ,of course, it leaked at the seam on the side.  Thus we truned that seem to the top and went quickly to the bike smelling myself as a petrolstaion.

Dumped it in my fueltank , gave the guy 50 sud pounds and went off for the remaining 230 km.

Arrived Dongola but had no accommodation yet.  I had checked the travel guide but nothing inspiring.  I saw two hotels but I cannot describe how dirty and rundown they were.    People lying in beds all over the place with 6 or 10 in a room and I was offered such a bed .  Ran away and I asked  an older man if he did not know something better.  It is funny and understandable that those who speak some english are the elderly and certainly not the youngsters.   So an older man told me where the better one was and told another young chap to take me there.  He took a tuk tuk an I followed it to , I hoped, heaven.

But no, it was a large white building with plenty rooms but unfortunately not claned since time memorial, no bedding, no towels, no toilet paper, no shower and you only see no dirt when the light is off.  This was the best in town so I took it.  They had a restaurant so I ate again a fried half chicken to avoid any thing else to spoil my internal  pipeworks.  Chicken with bread for the second day.

I slept accordingly which was not much and looked at the ceiling as from 3 am to 7 am when I got up to prepare to run away from the place.   Not before an elderly man stopped  at my bike and asked where I was from.  He was a Nubian , tall and with stature.  He asked if I spoke French and since I do he was very happy and offered me a morning tea at a nearby stall, telling he studied in Lyon.

He welcomed me to Sudan and after al that I took off to Karima.  I had planned to stay in Karima and enjoy the super Nubian guesthouse run by Italians and costing only 180 dollars a night without the food.  I could not care less  since i was looking for an extra day rest , good food and all the rest. In Karima I found the place but it was deserted apart from a guard who could make known that they were in Italy.  Shop closed.

Rather diappointed I took my book again and looked for the 2nd best in town.  The Nassr hotel and I found it suddenly when I looked beside  me while driving through town.

First happy but a second later totally disappointed, again dirty as can be, no bedding or towels, stinking after sewers, urine and the sort.  At the reception the manager laid on a bed, the whole day I notice, and was as lazy as can be.  No one cleaning or doing anything.

Again a bad night.  The only postive thing was that he arranged for 5 liters fuel so I could make it to Atbarah with what I had left in the tank.  The total of 18 liters is enough for the 300 km I had to do but I do not feel comfortable.  You never know.  Thus when I took of this morning I went  to the market petrol staion and waited till it opened which it did at 8.30 while a row of cars  had grown into the Streets.

But I was first with my 3 ltr jerrycan and they helped me instantly.  Off to Atbarah, a town at 300 km on the Nile north of Khartoum which is still 300 km away.

It was the last  Long Nubian desert stretch that I had to do and I have known it.   All 300 km a strong headwind and sand all over  wth the last 100 km sandstrom straight in the face.  Am I happy with my screen and new helmet that I can close completely.  It also has an internal sunscreen so you do not need all of  these horrble sunglasses  that pain your head under a helmet and I loose them liberally, even at 150 euros each.

I, finally, arrived in Atbarah and looked for the hotel, classified as best in town, for what it’s worth.

But I saw suddenly a new hotel and dove in.  They gave me water and greeted friendly so I thought this si it.

No sorry, we are full for to day and tomorrow.  Sh.. !!

Off to the original best and it is worth its ranking.  Best in town so no bedding again, no restaurant, no towels, toilet does not flush, no windows in the room, dirty all over, naked electrics right under the shower etc.  It reminded me of our first times we stayed in the newly bought brewery in Bedele, Ethiopia.  Some of us even got ill after staying in their accommodation centre.  It was unbelieveable and now again.

I have not washed myself now since Sunday , eaten only chicken , well fried to avoid the tommy palaver,

Not slept more than 5 hrs a night so I wonder when it will bounce back on me.

I need a good rest for a few days in a good hotel and hope Khartoum can offer me that.  I will stay here another day also because wifi is good .   Hope i will sleep properly.

Thursday off to Khartoum and  the HOTEL with bedding, towels, shower, wifi etc = all the normal basic things one need from a hotel.

This evening I went to the market on foot and in the dark and ate a half fried chicken.   I almost dream chicken but the intestins do not complain which for me is essential.  Tommy palaver breaks you down and would force me to stay put in such hotel. 

I aslo eat bananas, apples, oranges.   Eat only what is fried, cooked or pealed or leave it = Rule nr 1.

Bye for now, I fall over.

23-01-2018 om 19:31 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

To day was Saturday 20th Jan and again a day I will not lightly forget.  Got up by 5 AM and after the usual  cleaning ritual I loaded the bike up and drank some tea.  Coffee  might be too strong for the intestins and I do not fancy an Egyptian  ferry boat toilet . 

Kamal, my fixer for the Egyptain side waited for me at the bank close by and yes, he was there.  Off to the ferry and we got loaded immediately including 55 cyclists from allover who do a 102 days run to Capetown.  They do 100 km a day and camp in the bush or desert.  Not my piece of cake but nice people to talk to.

I was still with the Irishman Brian and we parked the bikes upfront next to eachother.  After us the lorries came on board and made the ferry tilt suddenly.  I was at 30 meters from the bikes but saw them falling over.  What happened is  that Brian’s bike stands rather straight on its stand and the lorries made it fell over on to mine and so they went both.  Of course we got many hands to put them up and saw not much damage.  My side stand has a lip on it so I can pick it up with my foot easily.  Now its flattened and the picking up does not go well.  I will see when and where I will bring it back to normal.

The ferry took off and after 1,5 hrs it docked on the other side.  We were quiclkly of the boat and followed Kamal to the border post.  I will sustain from telling in detail the uselesness of all that’s being done to get people out of Egypt.   Just incredible.    It took 4 hours of plain waiting till Kamal had done his thing.  I paid him the cost and   $ 50 for him and we could leave the gate.

On to the Sudanese side that is way easier but still takes 2 hours at least.

Finally I drove to Wadi Halfa, an ugly desert bordertown with some hotels but they are far from that.  I asked for the Ritz but am in the Alharen without shower or bath, no towels but the toilet does not smell.

Brian will camp with the bikers in the desert.  Must be fun but I have stopped camping.

No restaurant and I had no urge to explore the town.  I feel rather tired from hanging around and too much sun on my bold head.  Bit of a headache too.

I ate a good fried chicken that was collected from the market with rice and water.  Will survive.

2 pieces of bread were with it but I keep those for tomorrow since there is neither breakfast here.

Still have my Calve peanutbutter so I’ll enjoy  this somewhere on the way.

Next is Dongola at 400 kn along the  Nile .  The road looks good and I hope it remains like that.

Surprisingly I have good wifi wich is nice when you are alone and nobody to talk to.   I talk to myself yes but am now a bit fed up with my own stories, worries and thoughts.

Bye for now.

20-01-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Now in Abu Simbel which is not an ugly town.  Reasonably maintained but they are on the shore of huge Lake Nasser so have plenty water.

Went to see the Ramses temples that were saved from the lake before filling.

Tomorrow the masterpiece and that’s leaving Egypt with a load of bureaucracy for nothing , just employment creation.    Most unpleasant to say the least but I will never forget this.

To day I flew to Abu Simbel over 290 km with a strong wind in the back and it felt like riding in a vacuum at times at 120 km/hr.  Total time 3 hrs but 25 % more fuel consumption.  All the way a fantastic road but still you must be vigilant on holes and other iregularities otherwise you can really fly.

Here at the Tuya hotel I met an Irishman who I knew of already in Cairo that he was also on the way but did not see him there .   He also goes to SA but must be home again in April so he has a set target.

Tomorrow I sleep across the border , I hope, in Wadi Halfa and set of on Sunday for a 400 km stretch to Dongola.   This is  the first town with "Hotels" .  The Irishman camps so will go into the desert to sleep.

I stopped camping this year for obvious reasons that I , already. explained earlier.  

It’s said it is a good road.  Only few years old and no rains here. 

Cherio,  Paul.

19-01-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Hello,

Now Thursdayevening 18th Jan I prepare to go to Abu Simble tomorrow morning.

But first what transpired since Luxor.

The owner of the Memnon hotel in Luxor, mr Sayed had warned me against the police escort and advised to go early to avoid them. Also , in case I would be stopped and questioned just to say that I go to the Christian Church.  Do not know why but I did all this and it worked.  Was , in fact,  hardly asked anything at the many roadblocks and flew through. 

Mr. Sayed was really a nice man and very helpfull.   I had the problem that in Sonag at the Nile boat they charged my visa card but later said it did not work so I paid 50 dollars to the boss.  No invoice nor receipt. Stupid of me cause the following day in Luxor I check the Visa account and it was debited so double pay.  I say this to mr. Sayed who got very angry and said he would get my money back.  He phoned the culprits and did as if he was a policeman.  In no time they were prepared to return the money but did not know how.  In the meantime Sayed also informed the tourist police who also phoned them and put pressure on.  At the end they send the money to Sayed who will keep it for me till a next time and I am happy we taught them a lesson.

So now in Aswan.  When I arrived here I went to my booked Nubian Holiday house who indicated to have parking.   It was way out of Aswan and had no parking . It also looked a bit very local to my liking so I said that they had cheated me to pretend to have parking.  I said they should not try to take cancellation fees.    Wonder only what I could do in case they would do but so far no debits. 

In the meantime I was in touch over the phone with Kamal Muawad who is a fixer to get me over the border.  For him this holiday house was also to far from Aswan to see me.  Hence I took off again and after another hour over all the motabs I arrived in Aswan and phoned Kamal for a hotel.  I stopped a taxi driver to use as Tom Tom.   Kamal told him where to go over my phone and off we went.  This way I crossed Aswan completely to 4 hotels that also had no parking.  Than I made it clear my way and they understood.  That’s why I am now in the Basma hotel with a separate parking next to the front door for my HD.  

I took an extra day in Aswan to go to the Traffic court to get a Certifcate of no fines in Egypt .  Without this one is sent back from the border  to get it .  Another 2 to 3 days delay.

So this morning I went with him and upon arrival we jumped all the cues and headed straight for the ones who issue the certificate.  But soon it became clear that something was wrong with my Egyptian bike license.   We went from office to offce and finally it became clear that I had a taxi license .   Sorry but in Cairo they gave me that and I cannot even read it. All-in Arabic.   They told me to get back to Cairo.

Of course my adrenalin level went way high bit I kept quiet.  Kamal did all the talking etc.  At the final end after visiting 6 offices ate least 4 times each I paid 550 LE = 26 euros and all was done.  Yes, with receipt.   Was not such a nice start of this beautiful Sunny day.

Kamal  brought me back to the hotel and said we will meet in Abu Simbel on Saturday morning at 06.30 hrs to go to the ferry and cross Lake Nasser to go to the border.

He also guides 36 cyclists from all sort of nationalities through the border.  Actually they are peddaling to Abu to cross to Sudan possibly also on their way to South Africa.

The hotel is an old bit British rundown place but the food is good and the beer is excellent so what the heck for the rest.

I checked the tiewraps underneath the bike and they are still fine.  Bit looser but I pushed them a bit tighter again.

Checked the clutch cable beacause its a new one and it might loosen up a bit and need adjustment for the freeplay but the recommended  gap is not too large so I leave it for the moment.  If it becomes too loose the gearshifting will tell also by becoming more difficult and noisy.  Clunk, clunk, etc.

Tomorrow I want to go early to avoid the heat after 12 noon and to have the time to see Ramses that was saved by a Dutch consortium from Lake Nasser and put higher up the lake shore. Otherwise it would have gone under water.

Also I want to see where the ferry leaves and what state the ferry is in.  Do I need swimsuit or not as underwear.  No worry mate,  the moment you hit the water you become croc finger food.

Ok, fine for now and may be tomorrow more.

In Sudan you might consider me on Holidays cause there will not be much Internet/ Wifi  available.

May be we have to wait till !st Feb when I intend to hit Gonder in Northern Ethiopia.   I was there in 2015 and had a hotel with wifi and cold beer , the Essentials.

Till than I will keep record of all my mistakes and other people’ s.

Cheers.

18-01-2018 om 20:37 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

16-01-2018 om 00:00 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

13-01-2018 om 18:30 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Hello ,

I arrived on Sundaymorning  7th Jan. at 02.30 AM and went straight for the hotel. The rest of the day was for resting.

All the fun started on Mondaymorning around the corner of the hotel at Cargo Village. 

I wrote this all down in the afternoon but lost the contents when ,during uploading, there was weak wifi.

Now I just copy what I wrote to the shiipper of the bike.

The bike is out now after 3,5 days.

Incredible what bureacracy must be done while no one really knows the ever changing rules.

Bikes through the airport is max 7 per year so they do not have the hang of it.

I cannot make a list of what the sequence is since it was all done for me but I have ended up with a pile of papers mostly in Arabic and with at least a hundred signatures and stamps.

We even had to go into downtown yesterday to validate the Carnet by the Egyptian Automobile club before customs was prepared to fill it in.

There is no one who knows the entire process.  Sure CFS does not even know but there are guys in the different deparrtments that can be used and that’s what we did, or my brewery man did .  He works already 25 years at the airport for all brewery imports and knows everybody.  That helps but upon asking he does not know who can do the entire process.

I have not seen the other biker but they told me he is struggling to go through.

I will make a trip to the pyramids to morrow and the Harley shop and Saturday I go on my way to El Minya at 300 kms  along the Nile. 

By the way they roughly handled  the bike at decrating at carcustoms and parked it , not on the sidestand, but against a concrete pole and thereby denting the fueltank.  Fortunately no hole in it.

So far for the nervewrecking clearance process.  I really have to get back to my senses and I hope that happens quick.

The things I left in the bike panniers and topbox suffered also since all  I put in when I delivered the bike was wet due to the heavy rains  between Dover and London.  The boots and gloves are green . Rest of tools , raingear, fueltanks, are ok.

Fortunately he started immediately.   I , of course, worried he would not but I have a new battery, new starter relay and all  elctrical systems checked.

I did not take any photos since we were in restricted areas.  Did not want to loose my camera or go into detention for a day .

Tomorrow I will make pictures at the pyramids , I hope , and upload these.

Cheers,  Paul.

11-01-2018 om 19:07 geschreven door Paul Kemp  

Bijlagen:
IMG_2688.jpg (1.5 MB)   
IMG_2691.JPG (2.3 MB)   
IMG_2695.JPG (2.6 MB)   

WAT IS CONCREET DE BEDOELING??
De bedoeling is dat u op regelmatige basis een bericht toevoegt op uw blog. U kan hierin zetten wat u zelf wenst.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u heeft een blog gemaakt voor gedichten. Dan kan u bvb. elke dag een gedicht toevoegen op uw blog. U geeft de titel in van het gedicht en daaronder in het bericht het gedicht zelf. Zo kunnen uw bezoekers dagelijks terugkomen om uw laatste nieuw gedicht te lezen. Indien u meerdere gedichten wenst toe te voegen op eenzelfde dag, voegt u deze toe als afzonderlijke berichten, dus niet in één bericht.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken over de actualiteit. Dan kan u bvb. dagelijks een bericht plaatsen met uw mening over iets uit de actualiteit. Bvb. over een bepaalde ramp, ongeval, uitspraak, voorval,... U geeft bvb. in de titel het onderwerp waarover u het gaat hebben en in het bericht plaatst u uw mening over dat onderwerp. Zo kan u bvb. meedelen dat de media voor de zoveelste keer het fout heeft, of waarom ze nu dat weer in de actualiteit brengen,... Of u kan ook meer diepgaande artikels plaatsen en meer informatie over een bepaald onderwerp opzoeken en dit op uw blog plaatsen. Indien u over meerdere zaken iets wil zeggen op die dag, plaatst u deze als afzonderlijke berichten, zo is dit het meest duidelijk voor uw bezoekers.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken als dagboek. Dagelijks maakt u een bericht aan met wat u er wenst in te plaatsen, zoals u anders in een dagboek zou plaatsen. Dit kan zijn over wat u vandaag hebt gedaan, wat u vandaag heeft gehoord, wat u van plan bent, enz. Maak een titel en typ het bericht. Zo kunnen bezoekers dagelijks naar uw blog komen om uw laatste nieuwe bericht te lezen en mee uw dagboek te lezen.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken met plaatselijk nieuws. Met uw eigen blog kan u zo zelfs journalist zijn. U kan op uw blog het plaatselijk nieuws vertellen. Telkens u iets nieuw hebt, plaats u een bericht: u geeft een titel op en typt wat u weet over het nieuws. Dit kan zijn over een feest in de buurt, een verkeersongeval in de streek, een nieuwe baan die men gaat aanleggen, een nieuwe regeling, verkiezingen, een staking, een nieuwe winkel, enz. Afhankelijk van het nieuws plaatst u iedere keer een nieuw bericht. Indien u veel nieuws heeft, kan u zo dagelijks vele berichten plaatsen met wat u te weten bent gekomen over uw regio. Zorg ervoor dat u telkens een nieuw bericht ingeeft per onderwerp, en niet zaken samen plaatst. Indien u wat minder nieuws kan bijeen sprokkelen is uiteraard 1 bericht per dag of 2 berichten per week ook goed. Probeer op een regelmatige basis een berichtje te plaatsen, zo komen uw bezoekers telkens terug.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken met een reisverslag. U kan een bericht aanmaken per dag van uw reis. Zo kan u in de titel opgeven over welke dag u het gaat hebben, en in het bericht plaatst u dan het verslag van die dag. Zo komen alle berichten onder elkaar te staan, netjes gescheiden per dag. U kan dus op éénzelfde dag meerdere berichten ingeven van uw reisverslag.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken met tips op. Dan maakt u telkens u een tip heeft een nieuw bericht aan. In de titel zet u waarover uw tip zal gaan. In het bericht geeft u dan de hele tip in. Probeer zo op regelmatige basis nieuwe tips toe te voegen, zodat bezoekers telkens terug komen naar uw blog. Probeer bvb. 1 keer per dag, of 2 keer per week een nieuwe tip zo toe te voegen. Indien u heel enthousiast bent, kan u natuurlijk ook meerdere tips op een dag ingeven. Let er dan op dat het meest duidelijk is indien u pér tip een nieuw bericht aanmaakt. Zo kan u dus bvb. wel 20 berichten aanmaken op een dag indien u 20 tips heeft voor uw bezoekers.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken dat uw activiteiten weerspiegelt. U bent bvb. actief in een bedrijf, vereniging of organisatie en maakt elke dag wel eens iets mee. Dan kan je al deze belevenissen op uw blog plaatsen. Het komt dan neer op een soort van dagboek. Dan kan u dagelijks, of eventueel meerdere keren per dag, een bericht plaatsen op uw blog om uw belevenissen te vertellen. Geef een titel op dat zeer kort uw belevenis beschrijft en typ daarna alles in wat u maar wenst in het bericht. Zo kunnen bezoekers dagelijks of meermaals per dag terugkomen naar uw blog om uw laatste belevenissen te lezen.
- Bijvoorbeeld: u wil een blog maken uw hobby. U kan dan op regelmatige basis, bvb. dagelijks, een bericht toevoegen op uw blog over uw hobby. Dit kan gaan dat u vandaag een nieuwe postzegel bij uw verzameling heeft, een nieuwe bierkaart, een grote vis heeft gevangen, enz. Vertel erover en misschien kan je er zelfs een foto bij plaatsen. Zo kunnen anderen die ook dezelfde hobby hebben dagelijks mee lezen. Als u bvb. zeer actief bent in uw hobby, kan u dagelijks uiteraard meerdere berichtjes plaatsen, met bvb. de laatste nieuwtjes. Zo trek je veel bezoekers aan.

WAT ZIJN DIE "REACTIES"?
Een bezoeker kan op een bericht van u een reactie plaatsen. Een bezoeker kan dus zelf géén bericht plaatsen op uw blog zelf, wel een reactie. Het verschil is dat de reactie niet komt op de beginpagina, maar enkel bij een bericht hoort. Het is dus zo dat een reactie enkel gaat over een reactie bij een bericht. Indien u bvb. een gedicht heeft geschreven, kan een reactie van een bezoeker zijn dat deze het heel mooi vond. Of bvb. indien u plaatselijk nieuws brengt, kan een reactie van een bezoeker zijn dat deze nog iets meer over de feiten weet (bvb. exacte uur van het ongeval, het juiste locatie van het evenement,...). Of bvb. indien uw blog een dagboek is, kan men reageren op het bericht van die dag, zo kan men meeleven met u, u een vraag stellen, enz. Deze functie kan u uitschakelen via "Instellingen" indien u dit niet graag heeft.

WAT IS DE "WAARDERING"?
Een bezoeker kan een bepaald bericht een waardering geven. Dit is om aan te geven of men dit bericht goed vindt of niet. Het kan bvb. gaan over een bericht, hoe goed men dat vond. Het kan ook gaan over een ander bericht, bvb. een tip, die men wel of niet bruikbaar vond. Deze functie kan u uitschakelen via "Instellingen" indien u dit niet graag heeft.


Het Bloggen.be-team wenst u veel succes met uw gloednieuwe blog!

Met vriendelijke groeten,
Bloggen.be-team

24-11-2017 om 18:34 geschreven door