It is now Tuesday 23rd but I had no wifi for 2 days so I have to go back to Sunday 21st since a lot happened on that day.  I had forseen to reach Dongola at 400 km and one never knows how good the road is and possible other conditions. 

But in the night I suddenly remembered  that something must have gone wrong with my Alenis Registration form that I filled in on the Sudanese side and folded up in my passport.  After that I went to immigration to have the pp stamped.  Now, in the night I remembered that the form was not there anymore on returning the pp.  At that moment I did not realise this.   I checked all pockets but did not find it .  For that there is only one solution and that’s to return to the border at 25 km to get the form or a new one, if possible.  It was the right decision since I notice now that at every roadblock they only look at that paper and not the PP.   It’s a sort of travel  permit that indicates my route through Sudan.

I was at the border at 9 but it only opened at  10.  I called the fixer and he said he was on his way.

Before he arrived there was a young customs officer who spoke some English which is helpfull I can tell you.   I explained the loss of the paper in the immigration office.  He asked my name and went off returning after only 5 minutes with my original  paper.   Can tell you I was more than happy and quickly took of to Dongola at 425 km from there.  Nice road , no traffic and the wind in the back.

I had tried to get more fuel in Wadi Halfa since I was not full due to the border trip but In WH they said there is fuel halfway at ABRI and I believed it cause I wanted to go.  I should know now after 50 years Afrca that such message is only to please me.

I arrived in ABRI and , of course, nothing like fuel so I could not make it to Dongola.    Suddenly a man comes up and says that he might find some in town at the market so he calls somebody.  This person showed up and was the guesthouse manager of the only one in town and where you should only go if you do not want to sleep under the bridge.   But the best was he spoke English, sort of but he told me that he had phoned and nowhere fuel to be found.   But he said that the  town security officers have a

Reserve stock for emergencies so we could go there and plea for 10 liters which is what I wanted to be safe.

He drove a car from 1946, a Morris Minor and he took me along in it.  It showed its age and African service and repairs.  No more suspension, other engine and only max 30 km /hr, but it was a bit of fun in my nasty situation.   We arrived at the station and he went in , came back and said only 4 liters.  I said , is not enough , I need 10.   Go in yourself and make a dramatic story to sustain an emergency and ask for 10.

I came intoo a small and dark office with a bed and a desk + chair.   In the chair was the officer in charge with desert fighting costume and 3 big guys lying together on the bed.  Here they have beds evrywhere and like to leay on them for as long as they can. 

I made a story of a relative that I have to go and see urgnetly and need to be quikly in Khartoum.  He murmelled a bit and said it was ok but only with a can and not a car or bike at the petrolstaion since he does not want  to be accused of anything.   We looked for a container but did not find a small one in the market.  Suddenly the guy found one , blew on it and siad it was ok.  I looked into it since the engine does not fancy sand and other rubbish.  But it looked ok.

We filled it at the station and ,of course, it leaked at the seam on the side.  Thus we truned that seem to the top and went quickly to the bike smelling myself as a petrolstaion.

Dumped it in my fueltank , gave the guy 50 sud pounds and went off for the remaining 230 km.

Arrived Dongola but had no accommodation yet.  I had checked the travel guide but nothing inspiring.  I saw two hotels but I cannot describe how dirty and rundown they were.    People lying in beds all over the place with 6 or 10 in a room and I was offered such a bed .  Ran away and I asked  an older man if he did not know something better.  It is funny and understandable that those who speak some english are the elderly and certainly not the youngsters.   So an older man told me where the better one was and told another young chap to take me there.  He took a tuk tuk an I followed it to , I hoped, heaven.

But no, it was a large white building with plenty rooms but unfortunately not claned since time memorial, no bedding, no towels, no toilet paper, no shower and you only see no dirt when the light is off.  This was the best in town so I took it.  They had a restaurant so I ate again a fried half chicken to avoid any thing else to spoil my internal  pipeworks.  Chicken with bread for the second day.

I slept accordingly which was not much and looked at the ceiling as from 3 am to 7 am when I got up to prepare to run away from the place.   Not before an elderly man stopped  at my bike and asked where I was from.  He was a Nubian , tall and with stature.  He asked if I spoke French and since I do he was very happy and offered me a morning tea at a nearby stall, telling he studied in Lyon.

He welcomed me to Sudan and after al that I took off to Karima.  I had planned to stay in Karima and enjoy the super Nubian guesthouse run by Italians and costing only 180 dollars a night without the food.  I could not care less  since i was looking for an extra day rest , good food and all the rest. In Karima I found the place but it was deserted apart from a guard who could make known that they were in Italy.  Shop closed.

Rather diappointed I took my book again and looked for the 2nd best in town.  The Nassr hotel and I found it suddenly when I looked beside  me while driving through town.

First happy but a second later totally disappointed, again dirty as can be, no bedding or towels, stinking after sewers, urine and the sort.  At the reception the manager laid on a bed, the whole day I notice, and was as lazy as can be.  No one cleaning or doing anything.

Again a bad night.  The only postive thing was that he arranged for 5 liters fuel so I could make it to Atbarah with what I had left in the tank.  The total of 18 liters is enough for the 300 km I had to do but I do not feel comfortable.  You never know.  Thus when I took of this morning I went  to the market petrol staion and waited till it opened which it did at 8.30 while a row of cars  had grown into the Streets.

But I was first with my 3 ltr jerrycan and they helped me instantly.  Off to Atbarah, a town at 300 km on the Nile north of Khartoum which is still 300 km away.

It was the last  Long Nubian desert stretch that I had to do and I have known it.   All 300 km a strong headwind and sand all over  wth the last 100 km sandstrom straight in the face.  Am I happy with my screen and new helmet that I can close completely.  It also has an internal sunscreen so you do not need all of  these horrble sunglasses  that pain your head under a helmet and I loose them liberally, even at 150 euros each.

I, finally, arrived in Atbarah and looked for the hotel, classified as best in town, for what it’s worth.

But I saw suddenly a new hotel and dove in.  They gave me water and greeted friendly so I thought this si it.

No sorry, we are full for to day and tomorrow.  Sh.. !!

Off to the original best and it is worth its ranking.  Best in town so no bedding again, no restaurant, no towels, toilet does not flush, no windows in the room, dirty all over, naked electrics right under the shower etc.  It reminded me of our first times we stayed in the newly bought brewery in Bedele, Ethiopia.  Some of us even got ill after staying in their accommodation centre.  It was unbelieveable and now again.

I have not washed myself now since Sunday , eaten only chicken , well fried to avoid the tommy palaver,

Not slept more than 5 hrs a night so I wonder when it will bounce back on me.

I need a good rest for a few days in a good hotel and hope Khartoum can offer me that.  I will stay here another day also because wifi is good .   Hope i will sleep properly.

Thursday off to Khartoum and  the HOTEL with bedding, towels, shower, wifi etc = all the normal basic things one need from a hotel.

This evening I went to the market on foot and in the dark and ate a half fried chicken.   I almost dream chicken but the intestins do not complain which for me is essential.  Tommy palaver breaks you down and would force me to stay put in such hotel. 

I aslo eat bananas, apples, oranges.   Eat only what is fried, cooked or pealed or leave it = Rule nr 1.

Bye for now, I fall over.