Here we notice the views in the streets and the beautiful Cathedral that is the cover of the biscuit cardboard box that you receive on an interior flight with Lan. There is also a picture of the street where Lien Merre lives. Lady with typical hat on in the streets of Cajamarca.
In the morning we all went for a walk on the beach and walked to the town centre. It was great. We discovered all kinds of things that we do not see at our beaches in Belgium. It was low tide and we saw all kind of activity: people looking and collecting edible shells comparable with kind of clams. Then there were a couple of guys specialized in catching pulpo with their bare hands. Quite a thing to watch. There was also a diver who came out of the sea and who had caught a big one. Quite spectacular. We also saw seahorse although not alive on the beach. That is something we will never had seen before at the beach. It was a great walk that brought us to the center of town. There we went shopping at the local crafts market. But then we ran out of cash and went to the distributor. Unfortunately Palmyre did fall in the gutter. I never heard it and it was only when I was looking back where she was that I noticed that she hurt herself. We rinced her elbow as good we could. After all the adventures we had and the walking we did,this was really a bummer. And then we ran into James again. You know the guy that we met at the Corto Maltese lodge in the jungle. He told us that he had a great time in Cusco and that the Machu Pichu was "interesting'.
We went all for a lunch and we had one on a terrace overlooking the beach and seaside. Then we went back to the hotel to prepare for our departure. The car to pick us up was going to come at 15h30 and then it was goodbye time to all our lovely co-travelers: Luc and Annie, Genevieve and Guido, Chris and William, Berna and Marc, Nelly and Michel, Mieke and Nicky, Annie, Isabel and Lieselotte, Rik and Frans and our guide Dirk. So off we went to Pumbes to take our flight to Lima. There Palmyre had to let her bad packed with cellophane because there was a whole in the corner and it was getting bigger. So far for her brandnew bag ! Once we got to Lima, we were picked up and brought to our hotel where we asked for the nearest restaurant. We had the choice between a Chines and Italian and went for the Italian food. The food in resturant Donatelli was just delicious and we were really happy although it was our last night in Peru.
The next morning we were going to take the regular bus line
Chiclayo to Mancora. We were looking at a 6h00 trip along the coast. We walked
over to the bus station and checked in our bags. Dirk had told us to be sure to
have some food with us. The bus company should normally foresee something but
he wasnt sure what it would look like.
So we all ordered sandwiches at the hotel before leaving.
The bus was really comfortable but the views outside were really desert only.
At some stage you could think that you were in Africa because it was really
looking at savannah.
I took the occasion to do a major update and preparation on
the blog which I hadnt been able to update due to several reasons: a lack of Wi-Fi
connection and also some lack of time ;-))
Well during the ride we had a very nice surprise. We all were
served an excellent meal with rice and chicken, drinks and a dessert. That was a
good intermezzo
Finally we arrived at around 16h30 in Mancora. At the bus
station it was packed with kind of tuftufs and all their drivers were trying to
get some business. We started talking and told them that our guide had ordered
a bus. But we had to wait for it.
Well when it finally arrived it was very clear that we were
not going to be able to be all in it with our luggage. So I was one of the
volunteers to go by tuftuf. So Nicky and me went with Jorge. There were 3 other
tuftufs and they all entered a racing competition to get first at the hotel !
It was great fun and Nicky and me had to scrabble all our coins together to be
able to pay Jorge. The hotel was a bit outside the town center and at the beach.
Our hotel was really lovely, at the seaside and with a great
swimming pool. Most of us had a dive and Rik and Isabel went swimming in the
sea. They informed us that there wasnt too much undertow but that there were
rocks and we could notice this when we saw Riks knees that were bruised and
scratched!
It was decided that we were going for dinner to town to the restaurant
Cesar. Before we went, Luc gave the presents to Dirk for his daughter and he
made a small speech to wish him and his family all the best of luck and also to
thank him for his guidance and support in our travels. So everyone could admire
the nice girlie clothes that Palmyre and myself had bought in Chiclayo.
Guido had ordered 7 tuftufs but they were not at the
appointment. So we went with 3: Rik, Dirk and myself to town. First Dirk got
out to order the amount of tuftufs necessary to go and pick up the rest of the
group at the hotel while Rik and me went to the restaurant. It was what you
call : BASIC.
There was a big table that had been prepared for 20 people.
The girl of the owners was doing her homework in the restaurant whilst she
was looking at the Television that was having a soap on an the volume very high
! The lights were neon lamps but one wasnt really working. So we decided that
we needed a drink and ordered pisco sour to start.
It took a while before the rest of the group arrived in
their carriages ! Then when we all ordered the owner realized that she didnt
had glasses enough en went to the neighboursto get some.
The wine was also another story: there were 2 bottles of
white and 2 or red wine available(all in the fridge). One of the white wines
was liquorified (year 1998) and the red wine was gone off.
I had already seen enough and had wisely decided that I
would drink beer that evening. Then we started to receive our food that was
really delicious ! But the first ones had long time finished before the last
served got a bite ! We all had great fun
and then went for a walk
In the meantime Lieselotte had met her friend who was also
in Mancora. A very nice young lady who is at age 26 already an experienced traveler
and she was going to stay for a year in Bolivia after her trip in Peru. So
Lieselotte was going to have a drink with her friend before coming home. We
dropped her off at the hostel and went then back with the tuftufs to the hotel.
The next day was going to be our last one with
the whole group: Palmyre and myself were leaving this Thursday for Lima.
We arrived all in a deplorable retched state in Chiclayo
after our long night trip and the exertion of our walk on the day before. At
the hotel we were very lucky because they did not only served breakfast at this
ungodly hour but they were even so nice to provide us with immediate access to
the hotel room. We all went for a hot shower or bath and a couple of hours of
comfortable sleep before we started our visit at 9 to the museum of The Lord of
Sipan.
We were picked up at the hotel by the bus and our guide.
It was a short drive to the museum. There we had to leave our cameras and
mobile phones in the bus since none were allowed inside the museum. The guide
explained us that there were 3 burial chambers in the burial ground, one on top
of the other. The top one was of the Lord of Sipan. He must have been around 40
to 45 when he died. He was buried with 5 other people: his wife, his concubine,
his chief of the army, a watcher (whos feet were cut off so that he couldnt
run away and had to wake for eternity), a child (probably his own) and also his
dog. He was also buried with all his goods and symbols of his status. So we
could admire the crowns, the scepters, the necklaces and all the other jewels
and status symbols, all in gold and silver and decorated with precious stones such
as lapis lazuli and turquoises, that were displayed in a beautiful fashion in
the museum. Some of the necklaces were made of beads of coral and were really
superbly refined. The manufactures must have been great artists and very
skilled.
Underneath the Lord of Sipan, there was the high priest
buried. His skeleton was better preserved and also he was buried with all the
status symbols due to this high status. With him 3 people were buried.
The bottom burial chamber was the one from the Old Lord
of Sipan. He must have been about 60 to 65 years old when he passed away and
had been in charge at an earlier period then the Lord of Sipan.
Also he we were able to admire all the beauty of his
treasures that were buried with him and were at the level of his high position.
Our guide gave a lot of information but due to the fact
that there were a lot of other people and noise in the museum we were not
always able to follow all what was being told. But we made up for it by buying
the book on the Lord of Sipan at the museum shop afterwards.
Then we went back to the hotel and then further on to
discover the city of Chiclayo. Well I must admit that it is a very dirty and
noisy place, without any grace. We went to a local restaurant where we had a
lovely lunch for a very good price. Then we went to the Mercado Modelo and were
looking more specifically for the Mercado de Brujas (witch market) which is in
fact a market on herbs, charms and other items that are offered by shamans and
witches.
The Modelo market is a regular daily market where you can
find about everything: fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, clothes, pots, etc . But
the smells were certainly not very appetizing ! On the contrary. We went
through it and then we went on a little errand. We were going to buy a present
AYLA.She is Dirks (our travel guide
who went everywhere with us) new born daughter. So we took a taxi to the local
shopping centre and were able to purchase 2 very nice dresses and some t-shirts
for Ayla.
We were going to give the presents the next evening. That
was the last evening that our group of 19 would be all together, since Palmyre
and myself were leaving for Lima on the Thursday afternoon.
I must say that I will gladly forget the City of Chiclayo
that had (apart from the museum) nothing appealing to offer....
At breakfast we we looking at the Belgian newspapers to
have the necessary info on he results of the communal elections that took place
on the Sunday 14th of October in Belgium. After that we were all prepared for a
walk to view one of the worlds's top 10 waterfalls. We were told that the walk
was going to be approximately 4.5 hours. Well it was a day that we will never
forget. We started at the village of San Pablo at approximately 1900m of
altitude and had to climb up to 2500m to view to highest part of the waterfall.
This was quite a steep climb and we rested at several view points. At the
mirador for the lowest part where the was already a beautiful view it was still
another 2km up for the higher part. There the group splitted up and the people
that were taking a slower pace started their descend to the next village of
Cocachimba.Our group continued going up. It was tedious but we were
rewarded with the most breathtaking view one can imagine ! The mighty power of
the water falling down with an incredible force was awesome. We were having a
welcome shower just by the mist of the water falling down. After that we had to
come down to the mirador and from there it was another 5.6km to the village of
Cocachimba! The descent was really steep (equivalent of a black slope in ski)
with very slippery stones covered by rotting leaves. Sometimes there were steps
and the descend asked quite a lot from our legs! Then we had to climb again and
had to cross hanging bridges that I had only seen in movies up till now. After
a while we had to climb up again and met Chris who had trouble following the
pace of the others. We took her along and arrived at a point where 5 horses had
been ordered to bring down those who were really tired. There were 2 additional
horses but I hd to continue to walk. I had bought some chocolate and coca-cola.
It was thanks to their additional energy that I was able to make it, because we
were all getting exhausted and every step up was agony for our legs and we were
getting breathless faster and had to take rest sooner and more frequently. Both
Lieve and myself had a dip but Marc and Berna accompanied us and gaveus
courage. There were again climbs and descends. One was so steep that we were
sure that the people on the horsebacks were really going to be scared.
We finally made it to the village of Cocachimba at 3h45,
this is 6h30 after we started! We were all exhausted. At the restaurant we were
able to take a cold shower. Since we didn't had a towel, Palmyre suggested an
excellent solution: we had trousers were we could unzip the legs to make
shorts. So we unzipped this lower part and used these as towel! After a meal
and a beer we were brought to Chachapoya where we had to take the night bus to
Chiclayo.We were facing a 12 hour bus
ride after our walk. First we had a small stroll in Chachapoyas and a beer in
the local bus and off we were.
We were driving through the night to Chiclayo, were we
arrived at 4h30 in the morning.
Quiocta Caves and the Watchers of Karajia Sunday 14th of Oct
When we got up, at breakfast we were all wondering about
the result of the communal elections in Belgium. But then the beauty of our
surroundings captured our attention again. We first went tothe caves of Quiocta. We were given wellington boots because it was going to be quite a muddy affair ! These are really old. The caves had a lot of stalagmites and stalagtites. And the floor was full of mud. So the walk in the dark, lit by the strong lamps fromt the portable batteries that Dirk and our guide were carying, through the 6 different cavfes was quite slippery to say the least. At times we got stuck with our boots in the mud and have to be helped out ! Then we went to the Lamud village for lunch and from there we drove for an hour to Karajia. The ride was quite spectacular and we were constantly shaken as we drove on the unpaved roads. After the shaker-ride we had to walk towards the place were the watchers were to be seen. When we arrived on the market place in Karajia, we were immediately surrounded by lots of small childrend who were offering us to rent a walking stick. The walk was only 1 km long but with a 200M level difference. So the walkingstick came quite handy. Once there, we noticed the watchers high in the rocks. There were quite a sight and I was wondering how they were put there in the first place. There were several of groups of watchers and their setting spectacular. Going there we descended but coming back was a steep walk up. The good thing was that I was accompanied by 2 young guides who were helping me to get back up to the village. Their names were Leiner and Jefferson. Leiner carried my bottle of water and gave me his hand. They were chatting to each other in their local dialect which I couldn't understand. They were also singing songs and we got all back quite happily.Especially after I promessed that I would give them 2 soles so they could go the circus that was going to come to their village in a couple of days. In the village itselve, we visited the "museum" or should I say a hut that was serving as museum. There was a mummie, some pottery and some beautiful carves faces from the watchers in stone. After buying some souvenirs in the local "shop" with just earth on the ground, we went back to our beautifully situated hotel, Case Andina in Chachapoyas. We had cocktails on the patio in the garden and the chef prepared us a delicious BBQ with too much meat! We had beef, chicken, lam and pork all in one plate and some good wine to help us enjoy it even more.
The next day our group was divided in 2 because we had to
travel with 2 small minibuses to go to Kuelap and our hotel casa Andina
Chachapoyas that was in fact located 20 minutes drive from Chachapoyas. We
drove on narrow paths with steep slopes to Kuelap. The views were spectacular
and we asked several times to our driver to make a stop so that we could take
pictures. We did stop for a moment to order our lunch for later on in the small
village of Tingo. Then we arrived at the impressive site of Kuelap. We met our
guideAbraham, who had already taken
part in the excavations for more than 20 years. There was a construction going
on at the start of the path up to the fort. Our guide told us that a cable car
was being constructed to bring tourists up so that they did not had to do the
steep climb up. Kuelap is also called the Matchu Pitchu of the north and big
hotel chains are buying terrain around the site. We think that this will
bethe Tourist spot to be in a couple of
years from now.
But our group walked up to the 3000m altitude to the fort
that was constructed by theChachapoyas
from 600 AD. It is believed that more than 3000 people lived here. This fort
was very important. All the constructions are circular but some rectangular.
These are from the Incas. The circular houses and temples were decorated with
the zigzag patterns and with symbols of snakes and dear eyes. The walls are at
some places 20 m high and on the North site the was a tower that was higher than
the rest and was used to keep watch. There wasalso a burial ground but. This was closed now for visits but we had an
idea. Further our guide explained the inside of the round houses. There was
space for a heart to prepare food. They also kept guinea pigs and there were
holes in the ground where the bones of their ancestors were buried. When they
moved theytook these with them. There
were also spaces where the put the wooden beams for the second floor. We saw
reconstruction of one house with the roof of palm. When the Spanish
conquistadors came, they burned these down. At several occasions we had noticed
the sadness and rage against the conquistadors who destroyed so much culture
and knowledge in their greedy quest for gold. Our guide was no exception and he
told us indeed that the rules of that time, the Incas, as well as the
Chachapoyas became slaves of the Spanish. They were also decimated by the
diseases that the Spanish brought with them. After more than 2 hours of visit
we exited via 1of the 3 entrances. The made in unforgettable impression on me. Then
we went back to Tingo where we had lunch. We did have a choice between chicken
and trout. I tasted the trout and it was just succulent!I must admit that besides the coast where
people serve cheviche and fresh fish, the food was not having a lot of variety:
either pollo (chicken), saltado de lomo (small pieces of beef), steak and
sometimes cuy (guinea pig) or trout, always served with rice and fried frites
and some salad and tomato. But this lunch in a simple restaurant was excellent.
We then drove to our hotel. This was n unbelievable
sight! An hacienda like structure at the border of the river in a valley and
surrounded by mountains. There was swimming pool and beautiful gardens. Only
Rik tried the pool.
We had some drinks and a lovely dinner to conclude this
fantastic day.
We arrived all in a deplorable retched state in Chiclayo
after our long night trip and the exertion of our walk on the day before. At
the hotel we were very lucky because they did not only served breakfast at this
ungodly hour but they were even so nice to provide us with immediate access to
the hotel room. We all went for a hot shower or bath and a couple of hours of
comfortable sleep before we started our visit at 9 to the museum of The Lord of
Sipan. This is the most beautiful museum on the south american continent !
We were picked up at the hotel by the bus and our guide. It
was a short drive to the museum. There we had to leave our cameras and mobile
phones in the bus since none were allowed inside the museum. The guide explained
us that there were 3 burial chambers in the burial ground one on top of the
other. The top one was of the Lord of Sipan. He must have been around 40 to 45
when he died. He was buried with 5 other people: his wife, his concubine, his
chief of the army, a watcher (whos feet were cut off so that he couldnt run
away and had to wake for eternity), a child (probably his own) and also his
dog. He was also buried with all his goods and symbols of his status. So we
could admire the crowns, the scepters, the necklaces and all the other jewels
and status symbols, all in gold and silver and decorated with precious stones
as lapis lazuli and turquoises, that were displayed in a beautiful fashion in
the museum. Some of the necklaces were made of beads of coral and were really
superbly refined. The manufactures must have been great artists and very
skilled.
Underneath the Lord of Sipan, there was the highpriest
buried. His skeleton was better preserved and also he was buried with all the
status symbols due to this high status. With him 3 people were buried.
The bottom burial chamber was the one from the Old Lord of
Sipan. He must have been about 60 to 65 years old when he passed away and had
been in charge at an earlier period then the Lord of Sipan.
Also he we were able to admire all the beauty of his
treasures that were buried with him and were at the level of his high position.
Our guide gave a lot of information but due to the fact that
there were a lot of other people and noise in the museum we were not always
able to follow all what was being told. But we made up for it by buying the
book on the Lord of Sipan at the museum shop afterwards.
Then we went back to the hotel and then further on to
discover the city of Chiclayo. Well I must admit that it is a very dirty and
noisy place, without any grace. We went to a local restaurant where we had a
lovely lunch for a very good price. Then we went to the Mercado Modelo and were
looking more specifically for the Mercado de Brujas (witch market) which is in
fact a market on herbs, charms and other items that are offered by shamans and
witches.
The Modelo market is a regular daily market where you can
find about everything: fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, clothes, pots, etc . But
the smells were certainly not very appetizing ! On the contrary. We went
through it and then we went on a little errand. We were going to buy a present AYLA. She is Dirks (our travelguide who went everywhere with us) new born
daughter. So we took a taxi to the local shopping centre and were able to
purchase 2 very nice dresses and some t-shirts for Ayla.
We were going to give the presents the next evening. That was the last
evening that our group of 19 would be all together, since Palmyre and myself
were leaving for Lima on the Thursday afternoon.
I must say that I will gladly forget the City of Chiclayo that had (apart
from the museum) nothing appealing to offer....
On Friday we were going for a day of walking in the
beautifulneighbourhood of Leymabamba.
First we wanted to visit the museum where most of the mummies from the Laguna
de Los Condores. There we met Peter Lerche, a German anthropologist and
archeologist. He was key in the discovery, salvation and conservation of the
mummies. But since the Museo didn't open until 10 o'clock we first went for
coffee.Peter explained that the coffee
was grown by the locals who received a good price in return to conserve the
trees and plants and thus helping against erosion. So we all had an ecological
coffee. There were also a lot of colibris (pica Flores in Spanish).
We tried to take pictures but this wasn't an easy task
because their wings are constantly fluttering . Then we all went to visit the
lovely museum that contained all the info and artefacts as well as more than
200 mummies. Peter was guiding us and since he was part of the team that
excavated the mummies at the Laguna de Los Condores. All the mummies belonged
originally to the Chachapoya culture and when the Incas came they were also
keeping the burial site. There was also a display of what I first thought was a
necklace but in fact this was an ingenious system (qui lap) to calculate, do
accounting and make calendars. After our very interesting visit we continued
our walk and the group splitted up. The experienced walkers went with Omer and
the others, women only came with Peter. So Genevieve, Annie, Chris, Nelly,
Mieke, Nicky, Lieve and myself had a beautiful day, walking up along the river.
We pick nicked along the river on a beautiful spot where we could see the
bromelias growing on the trees. We also saw the eyebrows of the jungle! These
are the white cloudformations in the blue sky above the green of the jungle.
Wegot back to the village late in the
afternoon and went for a stroll on the marketplace where we bought water. I
have to mention the showers in the hostal. We had a normal one but some were
working on electricity ! Quite special that was.
Before dinner we had drinks to celebrate Lieslotte's 23rd
birthday. We all song Happy Birthday in English but then also Feliz compleanos
in Spanish. We did sing a lot of songs and Omer got his guitar out and he and
he son, Omer Jr.performed different songs for us. It was a lovely evening and
we had the birthday cake for dessert offered by Dirk and Southamericaplanet.
After a lot of more singing, we went happily to bed.
It was Fridayevening and some of us lay a long time awake
because there was a fiesta that lasted until 3 in the morning.
Cajamarca 10 Oct and trip to Leymebamba on the 11th Oct
Today we are going to Cumbo Mayo. Michel is having
trouble with the altitude (2750m in Cajamarca) and preferred to take a break.
We meet with out guide Ander.Heis a
very nice and goodlooking young man of 26 years and in no time he and
Lieselotte, our youngest member of the group whos 23rd BD we celebrated on
Friday the 12th Oct, were befended. After a climb with spectacular views on the
city of Cajamarca we arrived at Cumbe Mayo, a rock formation at 3500 m
altitude, where we admired the skilfully built canal. The was constructed at
approximately 1200 years before the Incas and was used for irritation. There
are 90degree angles. Ander informed us that this was believed to slow down the
water stream so that there wouldn't be too much erosion. We did a beautiful
walk and admired the 3000 year old petrogliefs. During our walk we also had to
squeeze ourselves through a crack in the rock formation and had to do a couple
of steps in a completely dark world. When we got to the other side of the
formation, a farmers wife in her traditional clothes with a high hat was posing
with a little lamb. We could take pictures for 1 sol. Then our guide suggested
a group photo and he took pictures with each of our cameras. Thenwe went back to Cajamarca to have lunch. We
were served delicious maracuja fruit juice! We were very lucky because during
our lunch the rain poured down but it stopped by the time we got out to
continue our visit to the Ventanillas de Otuzco. This is a per-inca necropolis
that was started in 300 before Christ and were used for chiefs and important
persons. This was extended through the ages. Some of these had several spaces
in the niches and were family tombs. The defuncts were first buried in the
ground and their bones and skeletons were then later put in the
"windows" (ventanillas) with their juwels and riches. All these were
desecrated and robbed by the conquistadors..
Then we went to the Banos de Inca. These have natural
warm water wells of 73c and Atahualpa the Inca leader came here to relax. It's
situated in a beautiful garden. Palmyre and myself went fir a private bath.
This was very deep and we enjoyed the relaxing warm water for about half an
hour. We used our bathing suits to dry ourselves since we didn't have towels.
Then we went back to the town. We had a nice walk where we discovered the
artesania shops where I bought scarves and hats for my daughters, grandson, son
in law and other relatives. Lieselotte went for adrink with Ander our guide.
Oct 11
I had also an errand in Cajamarca. Lien, the daughter of
my friend Annemie, lives in Cajamarca or the next 3 years and I had brought
Belgian chocolate for her. But the only problem was that Lien was travelling
herself and wasn't home while we were there. I went to her house, had my
picture taken at her front door and was planning to give the chocolate in the
tienda (a children's clothe shop) on the corner where she lives. But it was too
early in the morning and the shop was closed. Then I found the solution when we
saw Lieselotte and Ander on the Plaza de Armas saying goodbye. I gave the
chocolate to Ander together with Lien's address and asked him to give it to her
upon her return. With e-mail I informed Lien and so I am sure that the
chocolate will arrive at it's destination.
After the errand we went back to the hotel to start our
journey to Leymabamba, a 12 hour bus ride on mostly unpaved roads! First we
made a stop at the local Metro supermarket to buy drinks and food for the long
trip. Lieselotte, Isabel (Lieselotte's mom) and her uncle Rik were doing big
shopping to have the necessary drinks and nibbles in preparation for the
celebration of her 23rd birthday on Friday the 12th Oct. the reason why we had
to buy this here, was that Leymabamba is so much in the middle of nowhere that
we wouldn't be able to purchase anything. Dirk, our travel leader, bought a big
cake that had to travel with us in a carton box for the next 12 hours. I must
admit that the damage was limited! But we had half an hour delay due to some
trouble with the credit card acceptance at the cashier. We started our journey
and the first 3 hours of the trip were reasonably alright and the road paved.
Then we stopped at Celendinwhere we had
lunch. We all had the same:grilled chicken with rice and fried frites with some
salad which we didn't dare to touch, because the restaurant wasn't looking
clean. On the contrary it seemed rather filthy!
Then we continued our heroic journey on unpaved roads.
Due to our delay, we had to take a different road which meant an hour more
driving, because of road construction some hours of the day a piece of the road
would be entirely closed. The landscape was unbelievably beautiful with valleys
and high mountain ridges. We passed small villages with a couple of houses,
donkeys and dogs. That took our attention away from the fact that we were
constantly shaken (not stirred! As Mr Bond would have said). We had the feeling
that we were constantly in a big shaker and nota moment of rest was given to us. We were then all very grateful when we
stopped for a break t the small village of Balzas. There were lots of little
kids and shops where we bought some water and platanas (bananas). Then back to
the bus for the rest of the ride. This was really tedious now because it was
getting dark and we couldn't enjoy the scenery anymore. We were all getting fed
up with the constant shaking and we were all relieved when we finally arrived
at our destination at the hostal La Laguna de Los Condores, where we met our
Spanish speaking guide Omer. We bought a whole crate of beer and had a drink to
recover. We had been travelling to an altitude of 3200m just after Celendin, to
go down to the rio maranion and then another climb to the barro Negro passage
at 3500 m high after which we went back down to Leymabamba.
A small private bus picked us up at the Cajamarca bus station to transfer us to our hotel. We drove through the very congested traffic and narrow streets to our hotel. Drivers use their hooter at all times thus creating a real cacophony ! I was looking around to find a optics shop since I had broken my reading glasses in the bus. I had put them on my head and bumped into something. So that was the end of them. Palmyre did a very good job at mending them on a temporarily basis but I knew I had to buy a pair of new ones. There were quite some traffic jams in the busy streets of Cajamarca and the bus dropped us of at the hotel. This was in colonial style and really had a lot of appeal.
We flew to Trujillo and met again with the same air hostess that we had the day before on our flight from Puerto Maldonada. It was a short flight and after our replacement bus showed up (our original one had a flat tyre), we were brought to the hostel Huankarute in Huanchaco that was right at the ocean. We had a room with a fantastic view. We could see the waves breaking on the beach and saw masses of pelicans flying in formation just above the waves! It was a magnificent view. Then we went for a walk following the beach and had a lovely Sunday lunch. We saw the fisherboats made of rotan on the beach and there was a lot of people strolling around since it was Sunday. After linch we took a local bus to Trujillo town. These are rather small busses and with a group of 20 we nearly filled entirely the bus. We got off near the centre and walked to Plaza de Armes, a beautiful square where a kind of religious event was taking place. Different stalls that focused on different religious icons, such as Maria or Jesus or the Holy Spirit, were all around the square and were trying to attract the attention of the people passing by. There was different kinds of musics and colours at each stall. Lieselotte and myself were interviewed by youngsters with red T-shirts asking questions like : do you feel free? Do you think that music should be integrated in religion? Quite interesting. After taking pictures of the beautiful church and buildings we went to a coffeehouse that was located in a former cloister. It was charming and the maracuja juice that I had was delicious. We got back by local bus again and all 20 of us squeezed in with the locals in the bus. We were like sardines in a tin but had great fun because the salsa music was great and very loud. The next day we had an early start to visit the different archeological sites in the neighbourhood of Trujillo. First the bus brought us to the Chicama valley where we visited the Huaca del Brujo. During our trip there we noticed the sugar cane plantations. These were brought to Peru by the Spaniards. Our guide Herbert showed us around the Mochica built complex that has a beautiful Museum with all the objects that were found in the tomb of the Lady of Cao. She must have been between 20 and 25 years old when she died and was a very powerful person. The theory is that she was a shaman or healer. Her body was so well preserved that you still could see the tattoos on her arms and legs. Some of the walls had painted reliefs. These were telling the story of human sacrifices. These were selected from their own warriors and it was a great honour. There were also the Huaca cortada and Prieta that was the oldest and looks like a heap of rubbish. The museum was very well guarded with all it's treasures and put also pottery and the clothes of the Lady of Cao. Then we went on with the tour and went to visit the Huaca do Sol and Huaca de la Luna. The Huaca del Sol we could only see from a distance since it is closed for visits but it's beautiful to see from the Huaca de la Luna. This is an ancient complex that was built around 500 A.D. By the Moche.
The next day we were going to take a line bus to Cajamarca. The bus was leaving at noon and we had to be ready by 11h00am at the hotel. This gave us ample time to visit the local market where we did buy fruits to take on our long trip to Cajamarca (6 to 7h of bus). The market had everything that we needed and it was really very colourful with fruits and vegetables that we didn't know. We bought a pepino, a crossing between a melon and a pear and it tasted really good. We bought the pepino and small bananas as well as deliciously smelling mandarins at Julia's stall. We strolled around the market to watch the different meat and fish stalls. On our way back to the hotel we noticed pelicans on the beach. Quite impressive they are! Then we went to the bus terminal to check in for the bus to Cajamarca. At the gate I didn't had to show my passport but had to put my index finger print on the list next to my name! The ride to Cajamarca was a torture for my ears! We were sitting upstairs in the bus at the front row and although we couldn't see the TV, we suffered because the loudspeakers were just above our heads and the driver showed 4adventure films with lots of violence and shooting. I think that for every 3 minutes of conversation we had 15 minutes of shooting and/or fighing. Since some of the passengers complained that they couldn't t hear, the volume was turned up and our ears were even more assaulted. It was a big relief when we arrived at our destination and didn't have to listen to the noice above our heads anymore!
On the Saturday 6th oct, we had again an early rise excuse we had to catch our plane to Lima via Cusco. So we said adios to the Corto Maltese lodge and got back by boat to PuertoMaldonado where we got to the airport after a stop at the office to recuperate our left luggage. Once in Lima we were transferred to our hotel where we met the rest of our group who arrived the same morning from Belgium. We then met Rosa, our guide for the next couple of hours who was going to show us Lima. It's a big city where most of the public transport is by bus. There is no subway. We drove by bus through 2 areas:the Mira Flores where we were staying and that is a touristic and commercial area. Then we saw San Isidro, the residential area, with beautiful residences and embassies. Then we got o the plaza des Armas. This is the main square of Lima with the cathedral and beautiful buildings with woodn balconies. It was marvellous. The cathedral was closed because of the purple fiesta. For this people are wearing a purple dress with a white belt with knots in it. Each knot represents the times one has participated at this religious fiesta. We got very hungry (our breakfast was at 5h30 in the morning and it was now 4 pm). Rosa brought us to a Peruvan brasserie where only locals were coming. We had a sandwich with some tasty ham and then continued the visit and went to the catacombs of the San Francisco church. The priests and notables are berried here to be nearer to heaven. After a while everyone could e buried here. It was funny because while we were visiting the catacombs and seeing skulls and bones, there was a wedding ceremony going on above our heads. When we came out the catacombs we saw the wedding party with the mariachis on the square. Very colourful ! We went back to the hotel and then for dinner that was offered by Southamericaplanet and off course also the welcome cocktail pisco sour. Since we had a very early rise the next morning to catch our flight to Trujillo, everyone had an early night. But we had a bit of a scare. We heard an alarm in the middle of the night in our room. We couldn't locate it and went to look. We unplugged our cameras that were charging, then we unplugged the fridge until we finally found our that it was the safe that was located in the cubbard that was beeping. We didn't really knew how to stop it, but pushing several buttons seemed to dt the trick. So that's why we called it the spooky room hotel.
We had been informed by Erick that he would wake us up at 5 am if it wasn't raining. We were going to walk to the clay lick to watch the papagaios coming to feed on the clay. They need the clay to have the necessary minerals for their body. But they wouldn't show if it was raining. Due to the time zone difference we woke up at 4 am and heard the rain pouring down in a torrential fashion! So we knew no walk and had a lay-in unil 7. After breakfast we were given our wellingtons. We were going later on for a 3 km walk and since it had been raining a lot, the paths were going to be muddy. We set out on the boat to Monkey island. The monkeys there are not indigenous . They were brought there because the customs had a problem keeping them after they had been confiscated as contraband. Since they couldn't keep them in their offices they were bought to the isle with the idee to set them free in the wild later on. This never happened since they got too much used to humans. And this time, even although Erick had brought them lots of bananas, they did a No show! We decided to get back to the boat quickly and as we reached it, the rain came pouring down again! Since the boat is open with only a rooftop, the people on the windy side got soaked. But the shower stopped after 20 minutes and we moored to eat our jungle lunch. This consisted of a banana leaf in which a chicken leg, rice and an egg and lots of spices had been cooked. It was just delicious and we topped it off by fresh bananas and mandarins. then we started our walk to lake Sandoval. This is part of the Tambopata national reserve. It was a very muddy and slippery walk. Due to the heavy rainfall there were a lot of little pools. Together with the fallen leaves it was a rather hazardous walk. After about 1.5km walk we arrived at a little pontoon with canoes. We boarded one by one very carefully to keep our balance. Then our guide took the paddle and off we were to the lake Sandoval where there is an abundance of life. We saw beautifully coloured birds looking like a peacock . The there were a multitude of yellow cappucin monkeys that were showing off the agility by swinging and jumping fom one tree to another. It was thoroughly wonderful. All this was accompanied by the screetches of multiple flights of papagaios from one treetop to another. We also saw the bats no bigger that a small hand on the bark of a tree. They were hanging there like they were a pitch on the tree. We had to quit not to disturb the animals but that was a difficult task since we were all so excited by the animals that we saw and the beauty of all the surrounding. We also saw the brown cappuccin monkey. But then we noticed a whole nest of otters. They were beautiful to watch and were feasting on their catch of fish. When going back to the mooring we were accompanied by the cappuccin monkeys that were leaping from tree to tree even above our head. One even managed to drop something on Williams' shirt! Then we had to hurry up to be back on the boat before it got dark. But I got devored by the Mosquitos. One got me just above the eye with as result a swollen eye and cheek for the next couple of days. In the boat we witnessed the spectacular sunset with magnificent colours. It was just perfect. Back in the lodge we had our first pisco sour, the local brandy with lime and egg white. Really the thing you need after a day in the jungle.
We all got safely to puerto Maldonado where the staff from the Corto Maltese lodge was waiting to pick us up. A little bus brought us to their office where we took just the bare necessities for our next 2 days in the jungle. Then to the "port" where we boarded our "ship"or should I call it an improved canoe, tht was bringing us to our lodge in the jungle via the river the Madre de dios (mother of god). We had to ensure an equilibrium in the boat by dividing our weight on both sides. There are no roads to the jungle. The only way is via the river. we got there after half an hour and were enchanted by our lodge. It had a colonial style to it and after a delicious lunch we were shown our bungalows. Their settings re in a colourful lush garden where not only the flowers had beauty. We also had bright feathered macaus with yellow, red, blue and green colours that welcomed us with their screams and screetches. We then had our first introduction to the jungle. Erick our guide showed us around and made us aware of what was to see. First we saw an agouti, which is a rodent, rather big bit not so big as the capibara. We met a giant ant nearly an inch long. And we were informed on how the Indian population protects themselves against the Mosquitos. We saw a termite nest in a tree and he cut the outer shell and put his hand on it. The termites ran on his hand and when there were enough he rubbed his hands together and put what was left on his face and arms. This is an excellent repellant. we also saw the fungi and a small wild orchid on a tree. We were walking literally under a sky of tree leaves. The whole time we were accompanied by a concert of jungle notices. Birds calling and cicadas whistling. But one noice came above all: we heard a whistle of a train that grew louder and louder until we couldn't hear our guide. When the noice was receding he told ud that this was a little cicade of half an inch tall! After this experience it was up to the next. We were going out be boat to check on the river bank to find animals. But before we got o the boat we paid a visit to Charlotta, the local tarantula. She lives in a tree near the house and is huge! Then we started our journey. I mut say that Erick and the our helmer Ronny really knew where to look. After a few minutes we saw a white cayman. We saw manny more nod one from very nearby. Erick caught a small one with his bear hands! We all touched it but it was rather nervous by this close attention so it was quickly put back in his spot. We were so lucky to see a whole capibara family:mom and 4 youngsters who were feeding on the grass near the river bank. The capibara is the world's largests rodent. It's as big as a pig! After this close encounter with some of mother earth's beautiful creatures, we got back to the lodge for a good dinner and a good night sleep, a commodity that we lacked due to our travels.
It was a long journey to Peru. From Brussels we went to Madrid, where we had our first adventure. In Brussels we hadn't received our bording cards for the Madrid to Lima leg and had to chech in again with LAN. We made the mistake to take immediately the automated train to the other terminal and only realised our mistake at passport control where we had to show a boarding card that we didn't have. Do we did the train ride in reverse direction, checked in and got back to the other terminal and gate just in time to board. then it was a 12 hours flight to Lima and everyone's favourite pastime was to sleep! we arrived rather tired in Lima where we then immediately checked in for our flight to Puerto Malonado via Cusco.
Well today is departure day. UP to the airport and then first we fly to Madrid and then to Lima. We will arrive there on the 4th of Oct at 5h45 AM local time which is 12h45 Brussels time....
3 more days before our departure. The packing was a puzzle, but I managed to get everything with me thatI am sure that I will need, from swimming suit to thermals !!! And I managed to keep the weight down to 15 kg ! The problem will be that I can't buy a lot since: GPM (Gen plekke me) meaning NSL No space left! But we will see. Wednesday when we are leaving we have a littel problem: the unions of the NMBS (National Rail company) have decided to strike (for the 15th time in 2 years time) for 24hours. They really picked their day and I really want to call them some unfriendely names ;- :-
Johan will drive Palmyre to the airport and he is so nice to come and pick me up in Brussels so that I can go with them to the airport.
I will need to be careful when packing. It seems that I will need to dig out my skiing gear with gloves and hat and thermals but have to bring my swimming suit as well. Usually I make a list of what is needed, then take is out, next I put 50% back and pact the rest .
In just one month our trip to Peru will start. I will be travelling with Palmyre, my travel compagnon and room mate dure our biking trip through Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangkok last year. I am really looking forward to this. Our first 3 days we will spend in the jungle, with a boattrip on the river Madre de Dios, junglewalks and a canoo trip on the Sandoval lake. I hope to spot some caimans.
There is still a lot of reading to be done in preparation but the date is getting near ! to be continues
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WAT IS CONCREET DE BEDOELING??
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u wil een blog maken over de actualiteit. Dan kan u bvb. dagelijks een bericht plaatsen met uw mening over iets uit de actualiteit. Bvb. over een bepaalde ramp, ongeval, uitspraak, voorval,... U geeft bvb. in de titel het onderwerp waarover u het gaat hebben en in het bericht plaatst u uw mening over dat onderwerp. Zo kan u bvb. meedelen dat de media voor de zoveelste keer het fout heeft, of waarom ze nu dat weer in de actualiteit brengen,... Of u kan ook meer diepgaande artikels plaatsen en meer informatie over een bepaald onderwerp opzoeken en dit op uw blog plaatsen. Indien u over meerdere zaken iets wil zeggen op die dag, plaatst u deze als afzonderlijke berichten, zo is dit het meest duidelijk voor uw bezoekers.
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u wil een blog maken met tips op. Dan maakt u telkens u een tip heeft een nieuw bericht aan. In de titel zet u waarover uw tip zal gaan. In het bericht geeft u dan de hele tip in. Probeer zo op regelmatige basis nieuwe tips toe te voegen, zodat bezoekers telkens terug komen naar uw blog. Probeer bvb. 1 keer per dag, of 2 keer per week een nieuwe tip zo toe te voegen. Indien u heel enthousiast bent, kan u natuurlijk ook meerdere tips op een dag ingeven. Let er dan op dat het meest duidelijk is indien u pér tip een nieuw bericht aanmaakt. Zo kan u dus bvb. wel 20 berichten aanmaken op een dag indien u 20 tips heeft voor uw bezoekers.
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u wil een blog maken dat uw activiteiten weerspiegelt. U bent bvb. actief in een bedrijf, vereniging of organisatie en maakt elke dag wel eens iets mee. Dan kan je al deze belevenissen op uw blog plaatsen. Het komt dan neer op een soort van dagboek. Dan kan u dagelijks, of eventueel meerdere keren per dag, een bericht plaatsen op uw blog om uw belevenissen te vertellen. Geef een titel op dat zeer kort uw belevenis beschrijft en typ daarna alles in wat u maar wenst in het bericht. Zo kunnen bezoekers dagelijks of meermaals per dag terugkomen naar uw blog om uw laatste belevenissen te lezen.
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