Hi there everybody. I'm sorry for my absence! I realy need to finish my story and blog. But i have to go after my heart first and oganise my life a little bit. I promise to finish my story. If i can remember what happend.... It's all a little vague at the moment.
After my swimday i spent still one more night in Turkey in a city 40km from the Bulgarian border. I wanted to get as early as possible at the border to avoid lond waiting lines at the Turkish costumes, police,......
The whole rubbish of running around with pasports, documents and speedingticket starts again. This time it was worse. Only 1 bureau for the incoming and outcomming persons and cars. At the Bulgarian side: no problems. The guy even spoke to me in French: Tout est en ordre, bon voyage monsieur!!! I reply'd: Merci d'etre bienvenu dans la civilisation.......... (that is until you see the gipsycamps)
I wanted to go back to the black sea as soon as possible: and a "acneroad" very curvy too me to the little town Primorsko. The sea was here at his most beautiful. No rubbish on the beach, but the town was absolutly DEAD! No more tourism since 15 september. Only a few hotels supermarkets and restaurants where open.
The next day i too the road next to coastline, or as close as posible. Trough the city of Bourgas i got to Varna. Nobody knows why i took a road that was a dead end, about 18km north of Varna. I came to a nice and quiet beach with a pub and 1 restaurant still open. I found a hotel with a private beach, bar, restaurant,.... all in luxury for only 20 euro's a night. And not so far from ''golden sands" What was gonna be a big part in my 4 day vacation there........
I've been here, i saw it, i don't want to be here, so now it's time to get the bloody hell out of this country. It's just the way they drive here! I'm always keeping me on the speed limits, and than there comes a unpatient Turk hinging right behind you, flash there lights, or horn to make you go faster of to get you out of the way. It's pretty irritating because you can't enjoy the ride or the view. Even make a stop on the side of the road to take a picture has his risks...... A car overtakes another slower moving car, on the right, with his 2 wheels in the grint centimeters away from me and my bike. And for what? He had to turn left on the next intersection, desturbing all the cars behind him who wanted to ride straight. You see? You would be hungy for civilistation for less.... But once they step out off there cars and lock the door, they treat you like family. And there is tea for everybody.
A little bit later there was a sign: max 70km/h. So i slow down from 90km/h. And in my rearviewmirror i see fast moving cars comin up again. So i speed up a little, and there it was; on the side of the road a policecar with camera filming me doein 85km/h. I tought: nothing going on because a Turk was even overtaking me.......but 400m further there was another policecar with 2 policemen making signs to get me stopped. (not the Turk, ME) Result: I don't speak Turkish and they no English. It took about 15 minutes for me to understand that he wanted my drivers licence. (or i didn't want to understand). Finaly after one hour the form was filled in, and i got my ticket! (i even had to write my fathers name on the form) 130 Turkish lira's. (68 euro) But if i payed in 2 days it was -30%. So i did. It had to be payed in a PTT bank. At the bank a line of more than 30 people for me. It was hot and the line did not seem to be moving. Right before it was my turn, a friendly man comes up: "traffic ticket sir?" Had bad luck sir?. He told me to pay it in another office, where he translated everything, i payed and was out in no time!!! The guys name was Arsin and he invited me for tea with his boss.....(in my country you would be asked to leave). The boss was nice and friendly and generous with the tea. I told him the story and we made a good laugh about it. The town looks very nice and touristic and with all the timeloss i decided to stay another day here. In no time the boss starts to call around and sudenly i have a nice hotel with privat motorcycle parking right at the beach.
One day longer in Turkey; i didn't seem to mind anmore....... (and i got my swim)
My deer friends and family: My blog is not up to date anymore, but that doesn't mean i tryed..... In Turkey they have weird keybords for the computer, and it takes some time to get started. (something with the letter i and I) And when i finaly was finished, somehow the internet got cut down so i can restart the whole proces. It just took time and nerves, i don't care about the money!!! I happend so many times that i decided to leave it alone till i was in Bulgaria. But in Bulgaria i always pick a hotel whitout computer. (and i had other things on my mint too). Same in Romania.
So i'm gonna write a few short story's or about the country i've been in. No matter how many days i was there.
At a nescafe i say goodbye to this nice and symphatic family. According to Babis i should go to Serres for a coffee. Everybody does it there, Greek traditıon. And it's only 30 minutes away. I park the GS first to a little pole, clumsy of me.... :-S and later on the square. I was lucky, they serve ''pita'' the Greek word for pie, puff paste wıth: Spinage, chıcken, muchroom,....everything you want. I was a little scared of Turkey, so i stayed ın Greece as long as posible. In the north of Greece there not so many mountains and passes. The best they can do is road nr: 14 from Drama over Stauroupoli to Xianthi. It should give you enough motorcycle pleasure if you want to lay off Turkey a little bit. It was inevitable. the last straight line to Turkey on the motorway. Riding out of Greece is easy. But into Turkey is something else. Both borders are strong protected by the Greek and Turkish army. I pull up to the first of the many controles: Pasport, vehicle registration. Than to the Police: Pasport, vehicle registration and incurance. Than buy a vısa. Back to the police for a stamp on the visa. Than costums: Pasport, incurance and registration, across the lane for another stamp on your visa. Ride for 100 meters and the whole controle starts again.... After 1 hour i was clear. Agents and staff where nice and friendly, everybody shakes your hand and i even got menthol candy from the visa guy.
Turkey here i was than: Lets see what happens............ At the border i've met another Belgian guy with his wife. He told me not to worry about a place to sleep. Hotels and pensions genoeg. It was already late and the only thing i saw where roadhotels. Do i realy have to leave my bike outside here? Out of my reach??? I take my chance, and the hotel manager conforts me not to worry about the bıke. There is a constant eye on. (i know, but i better ask)
Last nıght i got to much money out the cash machine ın Ohrıd. 10 000 of there money is about 170 euro's. I thought i wıll need it for roadmaps food tomorrow, petrol,....... I had a compleet meal down the restaurant and ıt was only 750 Macedonian money, so i went for ice cream. only 20 of there money. (0,30 eurocent for a bıg ice cream????) What am i gonna do wıth all that money? So i decided to stay another day ın this magnıfıcent country, wıth very frıendly and helpfull people, Not to forget that woman are absolutly pretty here,..... But so unreachable... I bought a roadmap, and there was a mountain pas trough a national park, I had to try that one. It has become a sport to do a pass in every country i go to. The road up gıves view to the complete shore of the lake of Ohrıd, and over the hıll ıt gives view to another lake. On the map there ıs another road marked that looks a bıt curvy. Its the old road to Bitola, That has not been used for over 10 year i thınk. Complete wildernes. For the fırst time i am happy to have a ''dual sport'' bike. It leeds me to a town completly isolated from modern times. I don't realy know ıf they like me hanging around here. And some of the buıldıngs mark bulletholes at chestheıght..... Scary!! Enough wıth the touring, I set the GPS for a town right before the Greek border, Somewhere on the way i see a cople of motorbikes by a roaddıner, at the terras some blokes where waving at me and there thumbs where high up in the air. If you travel alone you get a down feeling sometimes. I feld a little bit sad and ın need of a good conversation, maybe it was time to stop for some soup or salat..... I am introduced to: Adrian, Geoff and Pavlo. 3 Bikers from Camebridge England, Who where doeıng the same tour as me, but ın the other direction. Came ın handy for the both of us! After the good coversation and dıner, i made a left turn and they a right! I does not have to more than that. THE ROAD GİVES AND THE ROAD TAKES. I arrıve at the Macedonian bordertown where i hoped to fınd accomodation as fast as the night before. But no! Only a fancy hotel and casıno. Ok to Thessaloniki 83km, In Thessaloniki İ found out that there's no boat to Turkey anymore. It was already 17u00 and i had no place to sleep. It seems like all the luck i had before turned against me. I don't know why i set sail for a north-east direction. Desteny? I just pick a exıt on the motorway randomly ın the middle of nowhere. Everybody speaks Greek here, not a bit Englısh. Some locals poınt me to a hotel 25km away. Sudenly i see a sıght: Welcome to white village, western ranch. I was saved!!! How lucky can a man be? Just after nightfall i made aquantance with the owners, who where amazed by the way ı got there, and they showed lost of interest for the bıke and journey i make. I'ts already late when we talked about: ranches, horses, motorbikes, food,..... Agaın a perfect closing for a perfect day.
Oef the bike ıs still there. I'm already up early, Today i was gonna see the black sea. But fırst i had to pass Istanbul and survive the Turkish traffic. And you think that Albania was a nightmare........! I can't count how many times i almost got run'd over. If you are tyred with life? I advice you to take a motorbike and ride it trough Turkey. They just don't care about bıkers here! Istanbul was close, appartment buildings and houses on hills where the only thing i saw. I look between them and the horizon ın search for the Aya Sofıa, but i don't see it. Just like passing by Dubrovnik i feld a little disappointed. About 100km after the massive bridge that connects Europe with Asia i was in need for petrol and there was a Burger king. I deserved a good menu after my achievement. And if i was gonna die, i can better do it wellfeeded...... I park the GS next to a few Turkish GS riders, but they didn't talk to me, showed any interesse or even said hallo to me! Even bikers do not care about bikers here.
Then i left the motorway i drove straight to the nearest black sea town. I was constantly looking at the distance on the GPS. 20km,15,10, and than... there it was. My fırst glimp at 10km from Karasai, I drove to Karasai but it took some time to actualy was close by the water. A lıttle bit later on the bıg road i turned left to a bar. And parked e few meters from the beach.
The black sea: the thing that was on my mind and where i talked about for the last year. And in a way what i promised you all a bit. And now that i'm here i don't realy want to be here. Again it feld a little disapionting. Now what? All the way to Trabzon? And than the same way back? I shure do not have the days to go to Görerme and Pamukkale. I'm already tyred dealing with the Turkish drivers. I just go a little further till i am in the mountains (hills) fınd a hotel, see if i can get my swimm. And that i get the hell out of here.... I kept on riding on the big connection roads between towns. And so i didn't see all the nice towns. Pensions and hotels enough, now i know!
I arrive at Zonguldak, and the first sign ''hotel'' i jump in to ask. It's still ın renovation and i get a room on the 4th floor with the look out on the sun setting down on the sea. This was the last thing (accept for a swim) i wanted here, Tomorrow i was gonna run for the border.
There is a change of the original plan that i posted before. (like you don't know that already)
Probably i will make it to Turkey, but it will only be the black sea, the ultimate goal of this trip. I will not make it to Armenia, Georgia (beter), and the Ukraine..
15/09/2010 Starigrd palenica (HR) - Montenegro (MNE) 425km
I made up my sleep and i was shure gonna make up for the kilometers. I set the GS on the motoway again, and a little bit further than Spitt i took the nice and curvy roads back down to the D8-E65 on the coast again. The flanks of the mountains brought me to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina, only for 10km or so. If you want to go to Dobrovnik you have to cross...
Dubrovnik: A city that i always wantet to visit, and now i'm and i cant stay.. (( I was not let it pass by me like it was nothing and i made a ride trough the oldtown in a 29 degree heat. A few last foto's of walled village and i set the GPS for the border with Montenegro. Just outside the center was a biker cafe, I had to check that out and a cold cold beer brought refrechment.
Montenegro: What am i gonna get now it's another black hole i have to jump into...The face of the policija at the border prodicted not much good. He was lookimg cold at me and said with a russian accent: Paasport, Document machina..... I tryed to get a smile out of him when i left, but nothing helped.... :-S I had the satnev set for Kotor, and made direct aquentence with the smal towns at the coastline and the ridestyle of the Montenegran people, now i'm convinced why there should be ABS on a motorbike, pffffw In Kotor i have a choise; the ferry to Kotor, or the road around the lagune. Lagune was the best choise. By advice of a friend who has been there before i took the mountain roads to Cetinje (Old Capital) And man was i in for a surprise, Hairpinturns with burned down rubbish and roadsings with bulletholes took me about 900meters above sealevel, to a alptown witch the name escapes me for the moment. I try not to think what happens if you miss a turn or those holes between the big concrete blocks. Everybody there was trying to sell there home made products (ham, cheese, wine,...) and i was in for a try... After a few Rijkeja's idecided to inform for the price of a room you find here everywhere. 15 euro' for a chalet with toilet,shower,everything... I could not let that turn down!!! Later that evening i've met a bunch of students of the Cetinje art academy. They where singing and dancing to traditional folkmusic. And i got ivited.....
I knew i had to get going early this mornimg. The first stop was Cetinje ofcourse (i promised that to one of the students last night....i think) Down in the center lots of buildings, one of them had to be the Art academy! Next up was a ride trough the national park not so far Cetinje and it should take me to the border with Albania. Again the small road on the flank of a mountain gave me what i wanted to see. +/- 30 km took me to the next town. Before the road upthere there was a sign, 7,5 tons and no mobile homes..... And yes it had to be a Dutchman again!!!!
5km before the border with Albania i made a final petrolstop (gasstop if you're a yank) now that i still can pay with euro's. Albania: Not so much problems and timelost at the border, But immediately you know you're in a moslim county. Old and rusty bleu and black smoke Mercedes's and Ford transit van's with the whole family in, all the way hanged down on there suspention, where trying to overtake in the most impossible ways on the wide lanes with no markings on..... The satnav pointed me to a city, i knew it was gonna be hell, not only from heat but from traffic. Nobody stopped for the redlights. I had to make my own way trough otherwise you don't move a inch! I decided not to make stops anymore ad make my way into Macedonia as fast as possible. Bye Bye Albania, see you never again in my life!!!!
Macedonia: A whole world different. I actualy like to be here. Nice people. It was already 18u00 and was looking for a place to sleep and eat. with no Macedonian money. Immediatly when i arrived in Ohrid people where jumping on you to rent you a room. I just picked one out and when i was following him at least 4 others from the competition ride after me. Giving me cheaper prices,.... And some where actualy almost fighting just to rent me there room. I thought a room was just a bed, but it's a whole appartment for the price of a campsite... I just hope my bike will be right where i left it next morning...
Greets Joeri
Tomorrow touring Macedonia and take the ride into Greece or Bulgaria, I don't know yet!
Last night a strong wind came up, No No not from the onion and beans last evening. But from the mountains. It left me sleepless and i decided to stay another day. Against my will, but safety above all... It's a bit of a lost day today. But what will happen if i cross the border with Montenergo tomorrow.......?
That's all for now, Unless you want to know howmany undertrousers i used till now... (or didn't use) I already told you everything...
Slovenia is a very nice countra to motorbike in, but if i want to make Turkey and the black sea i have to make progress. No time to visit things here, but there's one thing i need to see with my owm eyes. The lake of Bled, You know: the most famous picture of Slovenia. A lake with a island and the mariachurch on a mountainisch background. A few last pictures of the church and castle and i put the GS in first gear to the motorway... On the motorway it wasn't very clear if i had to pay toll or not, I just get in lane and drive trough. Lucky?
Soon i crossed the border with Croatia, i was thinking: do i realy have to be here, what am i doeing here actualy,...... A little bit further than Rijeka i left the motorway, I found myself on a caroussel of roads that took me from the mountains all the way to the coastroad D8-E65. Mountains rise directly from the sea here, what you get is again 500km of perfection all the way down to Dubrovnik. I do shurly take those words: what am i doeing here back. You can easy leave the bike in 4th gear ride 80km/u stear in and a little trottle when you stear out... A plesure for machine and rider. I try to remember when the last time was i toucht my brakes. That MUST be 30km ago.
12/09/2010: Prato allo stelvio (I) - Bovec (SLO) +/- 350km
I got up early in the morning and left Stelvio at 08u00, It wa going to be a long day over all the passes in the Italian alps. I can't count any more howmany i did. But the countrysite always got better and better. I took about 1 million pictures. I'ts absolutly not possible to make bad pictures here.The only problem here are slow moving Italain cars.
Slovenia, finaly!! First time i'm here and it's quite good. Roads and scenery look promissing.....
The next morning i had to make a heartbreaking choice. Say goodbye to my friends and ride the stelvio's pass on my own and probably not see them again this trip, Or ride the Stelvio limited and make ma way to Ancona on 600km of motorway for a boat to Turkey.
It was sad to see my friends go and knowing i will be alone again, But sorry guys this is not the way i travel. I will shurly miss the conversations, jokes, sfeer,... And Casey seems such a nice bloke, I hope to see him again.
The Stelvio's pass was pure fun and beauty. About 60km of hairpinturns all the way op to the top, not to forget in Italian mountain scenery. So much fun that i spent the whole day going up and down again. This you should do as a motorbiker once in your life....
Strombeek-Bever (B) - Heidelberg (D): 450km. The firt ride took me up to Heidelberg, where John's bike is and Casey have to ride with. I left home precicely at 10u00, Becaus than the rain stopped for a moment and the usual traffic on the Brussels ring was a bit less! Leaving without a rainsuite was no option, and yes about 25km before Koblenz (D) hard rain so i could not see 100m in front of me. Arriving at Heidelberg at 14u00 i got dry and at the same time the rain cleared out.... (you know the story). I only had to wait a copple of beers for Casey who arrived at about 18u00. We did a small ride to get some petrol (gas) for about 10min.
Heidelberg (D) - Schwangau (D): 400km. Next dag i got up at 08u00 and was ready to go by 09u00. After making Casey's bike ready we finaly got on the road by 12u00... We set our navigation for Schwangau in the German alps of Bayeren, where i absolutly wanted to visit the castle of Ludwig II. Arriving late at the campsite we quickly put up the tent, schower and get someting to eat at the restaurant that was about to close... Just in time.
Schwangau (D) - Prato allo Stelvio (I)
Believe it or not but i got Casey out of his tent by 07u00, and wat was more amazimg we where off the campground by 08u30. Casey's "esspresso alarm" went off , we got quickly something to eat, amd we where on our way to the castle. At the castle we found out that the next tour was at 11u40. So 1 u 40 min wait. Esspresso time.... We wait for the bus upthere and came to late, but that friemdly lady did let us in with the next group. Waiting for the bus down and finaly at 14u00 we where ready to take the 175km down to Italy. (My mistake i'm sorry)
What we saw was beautiful, Green water lake's between mountains with some snowy ones in the back. I expected to see and hear more Italian here, but everybody speaks German, We went over to the campsite where we had reservations and where we supposed to wait for John. But that Italian owner decided to close the site a few days early and out we went. We found one 12 back down on the stelvio's pass and waited for John, Who came off an 11 hour flight and cleared German costums at 15u00. He arrived at 01u40 in the night.
This year I will not take this trip alone. . The riders: -John & Ida, Texas USA With a BMW R1150GS adventure -Casey, California USA BMW R1150GS adventure -And me. Joeri, Belgium BMW F800GS
The plan: -08/09: Leave home for Heidelberg Germany at Stefan Knopf 's place. Also First aquaintance with John nephew Casey.
-09/09: Leaving Heidelberg for Trafoi campsite in Italy. Right at Passo di Stelvio. With Casey.
-10/09: Meet up with John & Ida in the evening.
-11/09: Leave for Ancona Italy. Ferry to Cesme Turkey 22u30.
-14/09: Arrival Cesme Turkey 06u30.
-14/09 till 25/09: Turkey, Armenia and Georgia. 11 days to cover 3520km or 2200 miles.
-25/09: Ferry Poty Georgia at 22u00.
-29/09: Arrival Ukraïne at 14u00.
-29/09 till 04/10: Ukraïne, Moldavia and Roemenia.
-04/10: say goodbye John & Ida.
-04/10 till 11/10: Way home, Probably kickin back in Hungary.
Joetrips is a blog with story's about my trips & journeys i make, mostly by motorbike. For everybody who wants to know where i've been or going to. Specialy for friends & family at the homefront.
Coming soon: the trip around the black sea. Country's: Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Ukraine, Moldavia, Romania, Hungary,...... Start: September 08. 2010
Belangrijke data in mijn agenda
-09,10,11/07 International motorbike rally @ Hoeselt (B). Everybody welcome to join me. All info @: www.mchoeselt.be/DemeRRock
-27,28,29/08: International motorbike rally @ St-pieters-leeuw. Everybody welcome to join me. All info @: www.phantomsmc.be
-08/09: Leave home for the annual big trip. This year: Around the Black Sea.
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