Departed at lunch after packing in Milano.
Forgot to look at my gps so ended up in the wrong direction...
But good thing was that i found a very Nice cycling road from naviglie grande till Pavia, pasing the Rice fields of the Po valey.
As from the Duomo in Pavia, started the via Francigena. God already tortured me for all my sins: he send me trough a field of pins and had to repair tree flat tires. We will never become friends I guess.
Ho pasato nel un villaggio Belgioioso! Che contrasto con Italiantasticoso!
Finaly arrived at Santa Cristina where i sleep with other pelegrinos in the pastory where Maria will watch over me.
90km done and went down in meters. Luckily mostly flat so my muscles can get stronger for the upcoming apenini: as from Pavia you can see the mountains near the coast already. Try to get over them tomorow
Tempo per una birra adesso,
Ciao
B.
Started the day early this morning. On the road at 7 and enjoyed a relative fresh morning with a few drops of rain.
Arrived just in time for the transfer over the river PO by boat. Some other pelgrims from Portugal, Spain and Roma.
Arrived for brunch at the market of the splendid city Piacenza with fresh ricotta.
At 1, the heat killed me so took a siesta and afterward fresh to arrive in Fidenza where I have the whole pelgrim house for me alone.
Finished my 100km without real problems this time, although, my skin on the saddle starts looking like the mozzarella di buffalo in a melanzana coming out of the oven.
And yes, also my Big Friend Is still playing jokes with me: yesterday my clothes were locked in the washing machine, today, all the water came out over the floor.
No pictures: problems to upload then from the phone.
Cheers,
B.
Today, the flat landscape of the Po valley has been replaced by the first hills of Tuscany. Today, I arrived at the passo della Cisa, 1000m high at the border of Emilia Romagna and Toscana. Leaving Fidenza, I had immediately a few sharp climbs but bringing me not really higher since always a descent afterwards. The landscape changed and the tomato-, soya- and mais fields get replaced by the first olive trees and some grapes. Only as from Fornovo towards Casio the real steep climbing work started and by lunch all my strengths were gone. By luck, a powerbar got me back on top. Also the compeed are doing good work. Like last year they saved me on the TOur the Mont Blanc, they will do this year as well and now I know they are not only to be useful on your heels!
Quite a lot of African refugees all around and some being used in agriturismo to water the grass and apparently also the lady of the house. Seems we are back 2000 year ago, when Spartacus was here. In the end, I did 70km today and 1600m of climbing. My gears have all been tested. Happy I can still do it! This evening, I hope they serve in this refuge the local wild Mushrooms with polenta and salsiccia. Ciao, B
After yesterday's climbing, today was the day of descent. Sometimes too sharp so after two salto's, I decided to save my legs and stay on the asfalt road. With all the luggage too hard to keep control over the bycicle. Since all unknown roads for me, it's hard to predict what is doable and what not.
Second event of the day happened when entering the walled medieval village of Pontremoli. The bridge was not designed for bikes and so my chain broke, or my legs became on normal strength. By luck, after crossing the whole village I found a helpful man who still had a new chain for me. When cycling down to the sea, my chain was still jumping over the gear so in the end I had to replace those too. Feels again like new now and gives me confidence to reach Brindisi (everyone said I need to go to Lecce at least)
Landscape here in Tuscany is fascinating: great view on the mountains ( lower parts have been ruined by the marble mines of Carrara). A pitty but still like the white marble blades of the Italian kitchen tables.
130 km done today and I feel my condition is still improving.
Tonight, I sleep in a pelegrini house opened by voluntary people where I am the only pelgrim
Looking forward to tomorow to cycle on the city walls of Luca and to end up in San Gimignano.
Buona notte,
B
Today, I could start and continue my trip safe and without problems after the praying and blessing I received from the would be priest from the local village of Valpromaro. A student biology at the university of Pisa. His is organizing all things for the village, including the pelgrim house.
And indeed, after 10km I arrived in one of the pearls of Tuscany: Luca. What an amazing beautiful city this is. I arrived there while the city was stil waking up. Some joggers on the city walls, early morning sunlight touching the statues, Italians having their breakfast before going to work and empty terrasses with all turists still in bed.
After having had my own cappuccio e con brioche alla crema, I moved on. First part out of Luca was less interesting but after a while, I could take ancient roads where only horses feel comfortable. I entered the hills of Chianti and I was waving over the Tuscan hills. This waving went in the end less fluent and I started to get realy tired. In the end, I was trying not to sink. More then 70 km off-road is getting in the legs. I took a siesta to recover. I was woken up by two young Hungarian ladies who encountered their first real live peligrino!
The decent that was promised from Gambassi terme to San Gimignano was in the end only 3 km steep down and 7km again up. The last hills were fighting against the sun, burning in on me and finally, after 12 hrs and 100km, I was knocking on the door of the convento di San Gimignano. By luck the let me in. I entered in the this sacred place where the silence is taking away all noice from the tourists outside.
Now time to recover,absorb liquid, and look for a big fiorentino (Gracie amore, buon idea)
Tomorow, I take it easier. Only to Sienna and play tourist.
Buon appetito
B
Yesterday, I congratulated my body and selected probably one of the best resto' of San Gimignano : Ristorante San Martino 26, Via S. Martino, 26, 53037 San Gimignano SI, Italia . Do not miss this wonderful experience when you are close by. I come back soon with Rosalba!
The silence in the convento was bit less during the night. I experienced the sounds of a sleeping priest: the walls of the cells urgently need a renovation. I thought to take some extra sleep in the morning to compensate but at 5 to 7, the clocks were singing and 5 minutes later, also all the priests.
Let's jump on the bike then! 8 am, tourists were replaced by the cleaning staff and the first Japanese were already entering the gates.
Today, changed my strategy to recover: walking up the hills and sliding down on the back of the bycicle. Finally, I found out that the pain in the Achilles I have since a few days is probably not tendinitis but just an injury after the salto's I made a few days ago - based on the big bubble appearing just above. My leg was locked in between the frame and the steering when I was laying upside down in the berry's. So I do not have to be afraid of that.
More problematic are the compeeds, or even more, the things they try to cure: sitting on a saddle becomes difficult and the heat is coming back: forecast predicting again +35 degrees. I start trying now a new more scientific treatment based on the back office guidance from my medical staff here in Italy ( molto Gracie Pinu).
During the trip, I have been tortured by all the Tuscan aszienda and vila's with pools. I almost turned back to jump into one when I saw the owners driving away for shopping. Maybe something for tomorow!
Finding a sleeping place in Siena was less easy and friendly. The first one, on a fantastic location, just under the duomo, did not allow bikes and the second was a place where mother non closed the door at 10:30. Something I hardly could accept since a real attack on my freedom the last days. So in the end, I found a b&b with the exotic name : Palazzo Bulgarinni. The ceilings are nicely painted but it's bloody hot inside.
Let's see what this will give tonight,
Cheers,
B
Ps: I did not record my first 30km today so the counter is on 540km. Roma is at 300km
And day seven He relaxed. But I didn't.
Early up this morning together with the sun who's light was going trough the cipreses on top of the hils and making long stripes over the landscape : Tuscany tigrato. This is also the perfect time to spot some pilegrino's: all with backpack, and sticks, ready for a new walk.
I went trough lots of wineyards: Monteroni ( nice landscapes), close to Montepulciano, and passed some nice but touristic villages. This is also the area here of the terme and when I heard a guide taking to his customers, I realized that I was a tourist attraction too. "Ciao ragazzi, prendi un photo da me, un vero pelegrino!"
At 11:30, battery was empty so some prosciutto crudo, pecorino e un pomodoro, and I was ready for a siesta. Although already 2pm and 30km to go, I took the risk and started the final stretch to see if I could resist the burning sun. Some backup plans in case it would be too heavy. But it went well, the sleep did me good and I arrived at the foot of the village Radicofani. If I would have known it was 800meter high , I would never have started but I made it. Why do this last km always take so long? Now that I looked back, I did 80km and 1400m of climbing today, mostly more than. 10%, no wonder I am tired!
I arrived in a place with 12 other pelgrims and now my feet have been washed! Strange people these christians. Anyhow, it's nice to chat with all other pelgrims and its time I go for a beer,
A domani,
B.
Sulla Piazza del Gesu , no 13 a Viterbo con una birra artigianale di Sardegna. Che rilassante!
This morning at 8am I crossed the border and entered Lazio. A lovely deer and scary pheasant waved me out of Tuscany. I have some regret this part is over. The landscape changed: more flat with everywhere a "Pogio". I passed the village and lake of Bolsena and climbed to Montefiascone and then 300 meter down to Viterbo: time to stop! I saluted here the trio with the electric mtb again which I met on the passo della Cisa. I'm happy I can still keep the same pace with them- although I thought I left them behind long time ago. Nevertheless, if you want the real experience, you need walk or cycle this on your own capabilities: it's a much nicer experience and I already learned in this trip that speed doesn't count anymore, there is much more than that on his road.
As you might have noticed, I didn't go to Arezzo after Siena as originally planned to go through my beloved Monti Sibilini. Too hot and the Francigena is also nice and more than challlenging enough. I will comeback for this and take less than half the luggage.
Roma is coming in sight and I might get there tomorow afternoon or Sunday morning.
Now still enjoying the nice piazza's in Viterbo and looking for a typical resto.
Ciao ciao,
B
As from just below San Giminiano till Roma, the via francigena is wrapped arround the via Cassia. As from tomorow, this will change in the via Appia, 2 ancient routes build by the romans , 2000 years ago. The francigena takes mostly sandy routes and when leaving Viterbo, I passed through lots of roads with left and right a wall of rock of 4-5 meter high, very strange. Like they have been cut in the ground.
I thought all hazelnuts for the Nutella are growing In Piemonte but here i have been cycling for more than 40km through hazelnut fields.
Before Rome, the ground becomes also more volcanic and the route is black from the lava stones. I hope my tires resist them. In km, I just swapped the numbers today: from 676 to 767: about 90km I stopped today in the last pelgrim stop, 17km from Roma, this times with the non's. At least , they do not kiss my feet.
Incredible how much nature there is still here, though, the fires have burned a lot here recently. When I felt without water today for an hour, I was immediately unable to swallow. The lady from the shop didn't believe here eyes when I was refilling my body with 2 liter of water in few minutes.
Tomorow, just down to Rome and Vatican (there should be a stone of pietro to visit for the pelgrims), and then I will move on further down to the south, leaving all pelgrims behind. Until now, I am the only one of who I have met who is continuing direction Brindisi.
Let's see what tomorow brings,
B.
Today, a day full of Roman history.
I arrived early at the Vatican, first after having crossed a natural park and then a brand new cycling and running/walking path, a viaduct crossing the whole city and that drops you off at the feet of San Pietro cathedral: fantastic to enter Rome like this. They spend better their eu money than our Belgian, Flemish, Walloon, Brussels, ...politicians in bxl.( oops, need to stop thinking to this mess, I have a fantastic holiday).
After tree attempts, I was clean to enter the place in front of the marvelous square in front of the duomo:My bike and my knife where very suspicious . Rome is like a village in war: police, army everywhere, guns ready to use.
I had a quick visit of piazza Navona ( too early for a tartufo- all bars still closed), Trevi fountain -nobody to kiss-, so tI went on, via the circus massimo up on the Via Appia antica: along the road, most of the times still with original pavement , you find the catacombes, vila's ( ruined from 2000 year ago and also new from the current senators, statues, roman mtb's who try to kick you on the bubbling road - but I am bigger! This way I learn the Italian slang.
Then, I had to choose: back into the mountains and reach the sea tomorow or go further down directly to the sea. I took the first one and added another climbing 1200 meters. Via the lago Albano, another steep climb to an old crater, and where I made an old roman happy to listen to his life story during my lunch, I reached end station Cori. A cute village here in the hills below Roma. I am now chatting on the market square with the pensionates of the village so I get used to it for when I come and live in Italy. I am strongly recommended not to disturb the "capo del hotel "when he is playing cards. So, don't know yet if I have a bed to sleep tonight,
Buona notte,
B
After a having slept in a nice hotel with good diner ( tried Lombata di vitello), I started they day with 2 flat tires.the first already when I jumped on the bike, the second when I was going down a path of 2000 year old that hasn't been used for years I guess. The francigena after Rome becomes more challenging: first of all, the signaling is in the opposite direction to Rome while it should be to Brindisi and then going on to Jerusalem. Second, I already got lost few times because the path didn't continue or was overwhelmed by plants. Probably, I have a flat tire now from the cactus that grow over the road.
I was using my last tires and co2 bombs so I decided to play it safe and leave the mountains to the open plane so I could reach the coast as soon as possible for what was announced as the hottest day of the week(38 in Roma). All flat,( the vegetable garden of Rome and Napoli) and just the hills on my left.
When I stopped at a bar and a shop in the middle of nowhere, where a man was having a napolitan discussion with the local police officer. It becomes more difficult to understand the Napolitan dialect. On the other hand, they ask me now from where in Italy I am coming!
I stopped in Terracina at the sea site, found a bike shop where my horse received oil on all the peeping places, and I had a fantastic fettuccine casserecce ai porcini di Asiago! Never had such good porcini, impossible to find on the market in Milano.
To keep it fresh, I avoided again the mountains and followed the via Pavia along the coast. Not so nice with all the cars, but I got in the end 100km closer to my destination.
I found finally a sleeping place in a church where I sleep under the clock tower.
I hope they don't work all night long.
Tomorow, I am heading in the direction of Caserta, to start my journey from west to east Italy,
B.
Today was the day of the big milestones: I passed the 1000km and the 10.000meter climbing! I also left Lazio and entered in Campania. The last region before I enter Puglia. The most striking difference here is the language: not the beautiful sound of the northern Italian but very short, rough, like they shout at each other. And I hardly can understand a word of it.
Today was almost all flat so I could again make some progress in distance(110km) today. Having a siesta during lunch seems the best strategy. I enjoy the morning fresh, my body can recover and I can still do quite a piece in the afternoon, even when hot.
First I passed through an area , a labyrinth of rocky roads through fields and bushes, by luck I have gps because no signs of Franchigia or GR at all. And the few I saw were even wrong, probably just publicity. Even with gps, I sometimes got out of track so you need to be very attentive.
I passed lots of apple fields, millions of peaches, very tasty grapes and luckily only a small fire. I also passed trough the nice Capua.
I was in good condition so I went on, over Caserta but during the entrance of the valley it started climbing and got a hit of the hammer. I saw a nice place to stay and I tried to sleep there, 10km before my final stage.
Also this was again an napolitan experience. To make it short, I had to talk to the whole family, even in Milano and Napoli but finally I got a room - I am the only guest- and now the aromas of the diner they are preparing for me, are making me high! Local fresh mozzarella ( speciality of the regione)and all the rest you can only dream of. PS : location is recommended to sleep! http://anticacorte-restaurant.com/contattaci.html
I am here in pole position for the climb over the Appeninni tomorow. Already at 300 meter so I should be over the pass and in Puglia tomorow!
Hope I have strong legs tomorow,
B.
Under a roasting sun, I arrived in Faeto, the highest village of Puglia! This morning, after breakfast in Montesarchio, I was presented a few hard climbs. I immedialtly went up to 600 meter on very steep roads.
Instead of meeting pelgrims on the road early morning, I met now lots of Africans, on a bike going to work. Italy seems to do quite a good job to integrate all these refugees.
In the descent, I noticed a problem with my break in the rear: it was not working anymore and going down became very dangerous, and I still had to pass the upcoming hills. Luckily, next town was Buonvento, and according to google, there were some bycicle shops. Now hoping to find one that knows something of hydraulic breaks. The fist shop was a shop for fishing, the second didn 't exist so only option was to stop someone on a race bike. He send me to Gilardi who found that there was air in the oil channel. After 2 hours and a visit of the beautiful center, I could continue my trip safe again. The rest of the road was less hard than expected. The mountains are more gentle than the passo della Cisa so I could enjoy the open landscape, although there were still some fires. quite limited, by luck!
I started to look for a place to sleep. The stop place from the via Franchigena was a dead village without any sign of life. With the help of the local, very well organized and free tourist system - they call it here a bar, half the male village helpt me to find a sleeping place. In the end still 12Km to go but having the forecast of a shower, a beer and a dinner, I got wings again. When I arrived, the new bar community was still trying to send me to the next vilage. In the end , I could convince the bar keeper to open a room in his b&b.
Now I have a room with view over the whole valey of Puglia. The light is wonderful here after the sunset.
Tomorow, I start with the descent and will provably arrive close to Bari. If I can go on like this, I will be able to visit Lecce and Sante Maria di Leuca, the most southern point in the heel of Italy, recommended place by all Italians I met.
Ciao,
B,
Today was a day of big contrasts:
In the morning, a room with a view over whole Puglia, now , a room without Windows under the ground. Mountains from the morning are also left behind and not visible anymore and allong the streets here, full of dirt, burned plastic, broken glass The tranquility of the villages in the mountains versus walking in Cerignola from piazza to piazza is like zapping from RAI1 to RAI2 and RAI3 with volume of TV above the level the speakers can handle: wheel of furtune, would be singers,drumbands, all that can make noice came here together. But don't worry, the food is getting even better, puglians are more helpfull and nice.
Also dogs are not chained here anymore like in North Italy. You always need to keep some extra power to start a sprint when a group of barkling agressors run behind you. I never know if it is just for their fun on a boring day or if they are protecting their land : I always go for the last one and start a race to stay in front of the dog. Usually , they give up after 500meter.
This evening , I had diner with a pre-pensionated couple from Belgium: both with a quite heavy koga - courageous, I would recommend a MTB here -, going in the reverse direction. They already did Belgium - Santiago and some other +2000km trips. Was nice exchanging idea's. Last but not least, my bike was again in repair. After a few days, I localized the enervating peeping was coming from the front break. Since I got nuts from it, I went to another shop and after few hours and a gigantic pasta con Ricciola I could move on. However, for a next similar trip, either I will do a full maintenance of the bike or buy a new one.
Tomorow, I will follow what is said to be the most beautiful coast of Italy,
Promising,
B.
The start of the trip went nice. Olive trees and grapes everywhere. Nice and calm, some off-road where you get lost from time to time but still ok. However, once arrived at the sea, the quite cycling is over. You need to do everything to avoid the SS16, an express way with lots of tragic . The path along the coast is either non existing, disappeared and what is left impossible for a MTB.
Quite a disapppinting contrast with the previous 2 weeks. Also the sea is not what was promised:the farmland stops with a border of stones and plenty of dirt and then the water. Wonder of they ever have waves of more than 1 meter. Nothing can stop it.
20 km before Bari , I wanted to stop but all was full. So, only option was to move on try something in Bari.
Entering Bari was another battle against the car.
Bari is build in 3 concentric circles. The middle, old historical center - very nice by the way- which is a chaos of small streets in which they build a cathedral and a basilica..
Outside that inner circle is the second layer, build like New York : all horizontal and vertical roads . And then the 3rd layer is designed by an urbanist who probably was frustrated that he could not enter with his car in the historical center. So he build a network of express roads, as chaotic as the old town, but where a bicycle or pedestrian cannot get through. Mission completed!
In the end I found a way through and arrived at a place still offered by the via francigena. These non's close the door at 9pm, this is the time the restaurants start to open here. So I friendly thanked them for their hospitality and booking.com found a nice hotel for me.
An octopus salad and a pasta con seppie made my day and with half a liter of wine, I was ziggyzaggy walking to my bed.
Viva Italia
B.
It's raining! Not a lot but for the first time in my 16 days till now, temperature will go below 30 in the afternoon and also next week. Refreshing good news.
Below Bari, the sea is already showing more of its beauty. Certainly Monopoli and Polignano are probably marked as "Vaux le voyage" in the green Michele guide. This last village is build upon a cliff at the border of the sea and is a excellent place for sky jumping in the cristal blue water.
The express roads are still annoying me and I turned more inside the landside in the olive field of Puglia: magnificent olive trees of a few hundreds of years old I guess in all kind of shapes. Some have a diameter of 2 meters! I even found an marked cycling path through these fields.
Since I am now close to Brindisi, one of my targets and since I still have some days left, I go on to the very south. Tomorow to Lecce and day after to Santa Maria de Leuca.
I plan to take the night train Thursday evening from Lecce to Milano. Just need to find a solution to get my bike on these trains.
Time to visit Ostuni, the "white city of Puglia" and for a beer,
B.
With fresh air, cycling goes already much smoother. Although my legs didn't like to get up this morning, i get an extra portion of endorfines after an hour and then all goes better. I am afraid to get a depression after this trip.
Google maps helped me fantastic today in finding a route to Lecce. Using the option for pedestrians, it dropped me on the via Appia which is also a cycling route, called the Messapia Meridiana . Passing nice vila's and huge olive trees fields - most of them for sale, probably because they are ill. Some are already replaced by solar pannels: clean energy but painful view knowing what was there before.
Some villa's are suddenly interrupting the road and made it private domain. If there is no dog and early in the morning, it's safe - although, people that can do this probably have special illegal privileges here- to quickly jump over the fence and pass. They all sleep anyhow- at least on a Sunday. You need also to be lucky the gate in front is also open!
At lunch time in the small village San Donaci, I met Carmello and his friends. What was supposed to be a short lunch stop, became a 2 hour stop. It felt like I was in the program of Carluccio. They learned me to make Friselle, we talked about the local Italian jazz, Tarantula's (*) and drunk coffee together.
Then I moved on for the last 25km of the day to what Carmello called, the Firenze of Puglia.
Bit overstatement but Lecce is indeed very rich of refined buildings . The piazza duomo in a thunderstorm was a pleasant experience.
Tomorow, I try again some new recommendations along the Adriatic coast and will relax and swim a bit so I start recovering.
Bacio
B.
(*) Tarantula or in Italian Taranta : listen to Taranta Project from Ludovico Einaudi. You can here the local folk and and dance music of Puglia, symbolized by the poisened bite of the Tarantula: full of fever. The evening before, I saw a concert in Ostuni, where the musicians are accompanied by a dancer who is dancing with a white towel. And if you like more, listen to Canzoniere Grecanico Salentino, music from Lecce area.
Note: for those who like to follow my climbing: my app motion x gps stopped counting the height meters since i start using google maps. Here, its quite flat - bit like the "westvlaamse Bergen" max 200 meter height
Litle by litle, i start to slow down. Today only 55km to arrive in Otranto, the most eastern point of Italy. Strange enough, i have got my first cramps in the legs today. I bought my obligatory bike bag to transport my iron horse next Thursday on the night train to Milano.
Here in the very south , nature at the sea is for main parts still untouched. I could cycle on a foot path along the cliffs from Torre del Orso to the south (MTB REQUIRED). Tonight,for change again, I will sleep in a very tastefully restored train station "la casa su rotaie". An innitiative from a local organization to promote the slow traveling. Two gentle young ladies are running this place with much love and entousiasm. A place to remember! http://www.stazioneasudest.it/
Now that most of my saddle injuries are healed, I took a dive in the Adriatic Sea with view on the Albanian mountains.
A domani,
B.
The route stops here in SM de Leuca and turns back to the north along the Ionic sea and so will I. After 1690km, I reached the end of the heel. This place is nothing special, other than the fact that the land stops here, seems to attract tourist. The nicest thing here is the fire tower: standing here proud and full of self confidence. Off course, nice views and cliffs, the route along the coast reminds me a bit to Panteleria but not the most exiting part of the trip. I have also bad luck for sleeping tonight. I was recommended an apartment in Ciolo, friend of the lady at the station so I was expecting a real nice apartment. It turned out to be a baraque that almost falls apart. Sure, spectacular view on the sea but don't look somewhere else! I already had half of the lavabo in my hands and a plumber would be helpful to get water out of the shower. Maybe I closed all the taps in my attempt to get the boyler working. He finally surrended but still no water. I should have done better research before blindly accepting.
Today, no special events that could trigger my inspiration. Probably because the real trip is over and I am filling the time to take the flight home. Tomorow, I stay in Galipoli - also recommended but I don't know if I should still follow all these recommendations. Seems my taste is not the standard one. This will be the last stop before starting the motorized journey back home,
See you soon,
B.
Let's take two days in one:
Yesterday, I went along the east side of Puglia to Gallipoli. A city build on a rock in the sea. Don't compare it with Mt St Michel, it's still normal here. On this side of the pininsula, the disastor of the bacteria Xylella is really visibile: Kilometers long, all olive trees are attacked. Some are half brown instead of green, others, almost 50% are already completely destroyed and dead. Attempts to cut them short do not realy help. On some places, since many of this grounds stand for sale, are already replaced by ugly solar panels. If no remedy is found, olive oil will become history and the last part of income of local people will shrink away and come in the hands of some big energy company's.
Gallipoli is a lively city, both the old and new part. Pallazo Grassi was nice place to stay with super nice people that are restoring this historical house. Also a recommended place to stay here!
After I passed by accident on the black fish market, where fish and gamberi is changing hands in a few seconds, I wanted to try the gamberi rossa. These gamberi are eaten raw and are delicatesse of the very south of Italy. Unfortunately, gamberi al sale in the recommended resto La Puritate was over full so I had to try them in another resto. A reason to come back!
Last day to Lecce:
After having my beard professionally trimmed and cut by in Italian barbiere - his uncle worked in the mines and still lives near Charleroi - I am now also looking like a real Italian now and ready to come back to the regular world.
I had a nice lunch in Lecce where I tried several excellent local wines to celebrate the end of my successful trip.
Now I need to run for my train to Milano!
Arrivederci,
B
On the train back to Milano. First time in 3 weeks that I do not have to use my own muscles to move to another place- strange experience. This train is also an experience on its own but I keep this for later. Who knows what surprises the night still brings.
This 3 weeks travel is realy the way I like to travel and it has always been one of my dreams to do. Similar like trekking in the mountains from hut to hut, it is a fantastic experience where you never know what's next to come. Just a bicycle or pair of mountain shoes, a backpack and a creditcard is just enough. You immediately get detached from all daily stuff and stress from work disappears like it never existed. It gives the feeling of being totally free, only yourself, nature and time. You define yourself what and how to do things based on your own capabilities and the environment you go trough. Time works on both sides: either you get tired the longer you go on or you use it to recover and re-energize yourself. I have had the same feelings 8 years ago when doing the transalp, where you are entering in another level and feel the real beauty of things around you. It is something that comes back every morning, even if you have a small dip.
I liked the start in the valey of the Po in Lombardia and Emilia Romagna, all flat, the channels bringing the water of the alps to the rice fields, not knowing yet what will come in the next 3 weeks. Looking forward going into the mountains, getting used to the new equipment and somehow worried that it was quite heavy. I still cycled fast - the stress of the western world to reach the objective. I met the first pelgrims and I had to sleep in places where I would never have had imagined to sleep, like the house of the priest the first night. It was giving an uncomfortable feeling to enter in that world. In the end, I must say they are very hospital and open to all kind of people, even me. Just the non's gave me a bad aftertaste -mainly they were putting rules, taking away the freedom of this holiday - but on the other hand, I saw them much more active in supporting the poorest people without income. They provided food and other care.
It was hard to get over the passo della Cisa to enter Tuscany but it was more than worth the sweat and suffering. I was meeting fantastic italians and mainly, my behavior of traveling changed from a more competitive - reaching the goal- to a just move on and enjoy which stayed for the rest of the trip. And on the hard parts, I used the lessons from Ferdinand in the transalp, just keep on turning the moulinette and meter by meter, you get there.
The next week was a week full of pain. My sitting place completely open making it sometimes impossible to stay on the saddle but also my leg. In the descent of the Cisa, I made a bad salto and my right leg got locked between my frame and steering ( with luggage), and after 2-3days, just before reaching Rome , I thought I had to stop. I thought my Fibula was broken and the indications of Baukis went into that direction,my lower leg completely thick, one day, I couldn't walk on it and climbing was a hell. By luck, the next day was a bit less painful so I skipped hospital and after 10 days, mostly all pain and thickness is gone and most important: I could finish this trip. A real relief!
Tuscany was a wonderful experience, plenty of strada sterrata, other pelgrims, beautiful city's which I enjoyed much more than in the past- I was already once in Sienna, but I couldn't remember the place was so beautiful. It was with lots of pain I left Tuscany and when I was entering Lazio.
Nevertheless, also the Vatican was like I never saw it before.
Regardless of the hot days, I enjoyed especially getting up at 5:30 and start cycling together with the sunrise : every time a wonderful experience.
After Rome , it was a pitty to leave the other pelgrims behind because it was always nice to meet and chat in the evening with all kind of people. The mytical part was gone - though, the Italians usually did the route for fun while the spiritual enspired pelgrims were more foreigners. I guess Italians know better how to live and don't need this spiritism.
In the passage through campagnia and entrance into Puglia, I was getting much more in contact with the local people. The further you get into Puglia, the more open and contactful they become! People here will still remember for long that Belgian with the bike coming from Milano! Never so many pictures have been taken from me and my bycicle, or people laying on the beach suddenly seeing a bycicle passing in front of them, a new tourist atttraction!
Only the coast line was a 2-3 days dip: the traffic, the tourism, i realy don't like it and it's not Italy at all, or no, it is, but then the only part I like to stay away from. I wonder who was first: Carlo Collodi his Pinokkio who invented the wonderlands and then picked up by some marketeers to create these fake places at the coast, or Collodi who used this reality as a metafore.
And off course, last thing not to forget: the food and wine: the whole trip was a culinary orgasm of delicious food and tasteful products with the fabulous porchini as the absolute topper.
Although it was a slow travel, this trip felt like I went as a rush through Italy. It was a mixture of sportive, cultural, nature, gastronomic, social and even spiritual experiences which continuously change when you move from one region to another. I can only recommend others to do the same or part of it. And traveling alone, like most of the people I met on the road, gives an extra dimension to let you be absorbed by the environment.
Finally, I still like to thank il mio amore più grande,Rosalba. She supported me for 200% during this trip and mainly thanks to her it was a major success. Un grandissimo abbraccio per te!
Anche gracie a Pinu. I tuoi consiglie mi hanno curato. En als laatste ook Baukis voor je analyse en progress van de pijn in mijn been.
And to all supporters of my blog. To be honest, I was also surprised of my writing skills - always discouraged at school- . I hope my level stayed high enough after the first 2-3 days. I know now also what a writers block is.
And from technology point of view, the several bike shops who repaired my horse and also apple, google, booking.com and basecamp: without this, navigation, route finding and places to eat and sleep would be much more difficult.
Till the next travel,
Gracie,
B
Departed at lunch after packing in Milano.
Forgot to look at my gps so ended up in the wrong direction...
But good thing was that i found a very Nice cycling road from naviglie grande till Pavia, pasing the Rice fields of the Po valey.
As from the Duomo in Pavia, started the via Francigena. God already tortured me for all my sins: he send me trough a field of pins and had to repair tree flat tires. We will never become friends I guess.
Ho pasato nel un villaggio Belgioioso! Che contrasto con Italiantasticoso!
Finaly arrived at Santa Cristina where i sleep with other pelegrinos in the pastory where Maria will watch over me.
90km done and went down in meters. Luckily mostly flat so my muscles can get stronger for the upcoming apenini: as from Pavia you can see the mountains near the coast already. Try to get over them tomorow
Tempo per una birra adesso,
Ciao
B.
Today, the flat landscape of the Po valley has been replaced by the first hills of Tuscany. Today, I arrived at the passo della Cisa, 1000m high at the border of Emilia Romagna and Toscana. Leaving Fidenza, I had immediately a few sharp climbs but bringing me not really higher since always a descent afterwards. The landscape changed and the tomato-, soya- and mais fields get replaced by the first olive trees and some grapes. Only as from Fornovo towards Casio the real steep climbing work started and by lunch all my strengths were gone. By luck, a powerbar got me back on top. Also the compeed are doing good work. Like last year they saved me on the TOur the Mont Blanc, they will do this year as well and now I know they are not only to be useful on your heels!
Quite a lot of African refugees all around and some being used in agriturismo to water the grass and apparently also the lady of the house. Seems we are back 2000 year ago, when Spartacus was here. In the end, I did 70km today and 1600m of climbing. My gears have all been tested. Happy I can still do it! This evening, I hope they serve in this refuge the local wild Mushrooms with polenta and salsiccia. Ciao, B
After yesterday's climbing, today was the day of descent. Sometimes too sharp so after two salto's, I decided to save my legs and stay on the asfalt road. With all the luggage too hard to keep control over the bycicle. Since all unknown roads for me, it's hard to predict what is doable and what not.
Second event of the day happened when entering the walled medieval village of Pontremoli. The bridge was not designed for bikes and so my chain broke, or my legs became on normal strength. By luck, after crossing the whole village I found a helpful man who still had a new chain for me. When cycling down to the sea, my chain was still jumping over the gear so in the end I had to replace those too. Feels again like new now and gives me confidence to reach Brindisi (everyone said I need to go to Lecce at least)
Landscape here in Tuscany is fascinating: great view on the mountains ( lower parts have been ruined by the marble mines of Carrara). A pitty but still like the white marble blades of the Italian kitchen tables.
130 km done today and I feel my condition is still improving.
Tonight, I sleep in a pelegrini house opened by voluntary people where I am the only pelgrim
Looking forward to tomorow to cycle on the city walls of Luca and to end up in San Gimignano.
Buona notte,
B
Today, I could start and continue my trip safe and without problems after the praying and blessing I received from the would be priest from the local village of Valpromaro. A student biology at the university of Pisa. His is organizing all things for the village, including the pelgrim house.
And indeed, after 10km I arrived in one of the pearls of Tuscany: Luca. What an amazing beautiful city this is. I arrived there while the city was stil waking up. Some joggers on the city walls, early morning sunlight touching the statues, Italians having their breakfast before going to work and empty terrasses with all turists still in bed.
After having had my own cappuccio e con brioche alla crema, I moved on. First part out of Luca was less interesting but after a while, I could take ancient roads where only horses feel comfortable. I entered the hills of Chianti and I was waving over the Tuscan hills. This waving went in the end less fluent and I started to get realy tired. In the end, I was trying not to sink. More then 70 km off-road is getting in the legs. I took a siesta to recover. I was woken up by two young Hungarian ladies who encountered their first real live peligrino!
The decent that was promised from Gambassi terme to San Gimignano was in the end only 3 km steep down and 7km again up. The last hills were fighting against the sun, burning in on me and finally, after 12 hrs and 100km, I was knocking on the door of the convento di San Gimignano. By luck the let me in. I entered in the this sacred place where the silence is taking away all noice from the tourists outside.
Now time to recover,absorb liquid, and look for a big fiorentino (Gracie amore, buon idea)
Tomorow, I take it easier. Only to Sienna and play tourist.
Buon appetito
B
Yesterday, I congratulated my body and selected probably one of the best resto' of San Gimignano : Ristorante San Martino 26, Via S. Martino, 26, 53037 San Gimignano SI, Italia . Do not miss this wonderful experience when you are close by. I come back soon with Rosalba!
The silence in the convento was bit less during the night. I experienced the sounds of a sleeping priest: the walls of the cells urgently need a renovation. I thought to take some extra sleep in the morning to compensate but at 5 to 7, the clocks were singing and 5 minutes later, also all the priests.
Let's jump on the bike then! 8 am, tourists were replaced by the cleaning staff and the first Japanese were already entering the gates.
Today, changed my strategy to recover: walking up the hills and sliding down on the back of the bycicle. Finally, I found out that the pain in the Achilles I have since a few days is probably not tendinitis but just an injury after the salto's I made a few days ago - based on the big bubble appearing just above. My leg was locked in between the frame and the steering when I was laying upside down in the berry's. So I do not have to be afraid of that.
More problematic are the compeeds, or even more, the things they try to cure: sitting on a saddle becomes difficult and the heat is coming back: forecast predicting again +35 degrees. I start trying now a new more scientific treatment based on the back office guidance from my medical staff here in Italy ( molto Gracie Pinu).
During the trip, I have been tortured by all the Tuscan aszienda and vila's with pools. I almost turned back to jump into one when I saw the owners driving away for shopping. Maybe something for tomorow!
Finding a sleeping place in Siena was less easy and friendly. The first one, on a fantastic location, just under the duomo, did not allow bikes and the second was a place where mother non closed the door at 10:30. Something I hardly could accept since a real attack on my freedom the last days. So in the end, I found a b&b with the exotic name : Palazzo Bulgarinni. The ceilings are nicely painted but it's bloody hot inside.
Let's see what this will give tonight,
Cheers,
B
Ps: I did not record my first 30km today so the counter is on 540km. Roma is at 300km
And day seven He relaxed. But I didn't.
Early up this morning together with the sun who's light was going trough the cipreses on top of the hils and making long stripes over the landscape : Tuscany tigrato. This is also the perfect time to spot some pilegrino's: all with backpack, and sticks, ready for a new walk.
I went trough lots of wineyards: Monteroni ( nice landscapes), close to Montepulciano, and passed some nice but touristic villages. This is also the area here of the terme and when I heard a guide taking to his customers, I realized that I was a tourist attraction too. "Ciao ragazzi, prendi un photo da me, un vero pelegrino!"
At 11:30, battery was empty so some prosciutto crudo, pecorino e un pomodoro, and I was ready for a siesta. Although already 2pm and 30km to go, I took the risk and started the final stretch to see if I could resist the burning sun. Some backup plans in case it would be too heavy. But it went well, the sleep did me good and I arrived at the foot of the village Radicofani. If I would have known it was 800meter high , I would never have started but I made it. Why do this last km always take so long? Now that I looked back, I did 80km and 1400m of climbing today, mostly more than. 10%, no wonder I am tired!
I arrived in a place with 12 other pelgrims and now my feet have been washed! Strange people these christians. Anyhow, it's nice to chat with all other pelgrims and its time I go for a beer,
A domani,
B.
Sulla Piazza del Gesu , no 13 a Viterbo con una birra artigianale di Sardegna. Che rilassante!
This morning at 8am I crossed the border and entered Lazio. A lovely deer and scary pheasant waved me out of Tuscany. I have some regret this part is over. The landscape changed: more flat with everywhere a "Pogio". I passed the village and lake of Bolsena and climbed to Montefiascone and then 300 meter down to Viterbo: time to stop! I saluted here the trio with the electric mtb again which I met on the passo della Cisa. I'm happy I can still keep the same pace with them- although I thought I left them behind long time ago. Nevertheless, if you want the real experience, you need walk or cycle this on your own capabilities: it's a much nicer experience and I already learned in this trip that speed doesn't count anymore, there is much more than that on his road.
As you might have noticed, I didn't go to Arezzo after Siena as originally planned to go through my beloved Monti Sibilini. Too hot and the Francigena is also nice and more than challlenging enough. I will comeback for this and take less than half the luggage.
Roma is coming in sight and I might get there tomorow afternoon or Sunday morning.
Now still enjoying the nice piazza's in Viterbo and looking for a typical resto.
Ciao ciao,
B
As from just below San Giminiano till Roma, the via francigena is wrapped arround the via Cassia. As from tomorow, this will change in the via Appia, 2 ancient routes build by the romans , 2000 years ago. The francigena takes mostly sandy routes and when leaving Viterbo, I passed through lots of roads with left and right a wall of rock of 4-5 meter high, very strange. Like they have been cut in the ground.
I thought all hazelnuts for the Nutella are growing In Piemonte but here i have been cycling for more than 40km through hazelnut fields.
Before Rome, the ground becomes also more volcanic and the route is black from the lava stones. I hope my tires resist them. In km, I just swapped the numbers today: from 676 to 767: about 90km I stopped today in the last pelgrim stop, 17km from Roma, this times with the non's. At least , they do not kiss my feet.
Incredible how much nature there is still here, though, the fires have burned a lot here recently. When I felt without water today for an hour, I was immediately unable to swallow. The lady from the shop didn't believe here eyes when I was refilling my body with 2 liter of water in few minutes.
Tomorow, just down to Rome and Vatican (there should be a stone of pietro to visit for the pelgrims), and then I will move on further down to the south, leaving all pelgrims behind. Until now, I am the only one of who I have met who is continuing direction Brindisi.
Let's see what tomorow brings,
B.
Today, a day full of Roman history.
I arrived early at the Vatican, first after having crossed a natural park and then a brand new cycling and running/walking path, a viaduct crossing the whole city and that drops you off at the feet of San Pietro cathedral: fantastic to enter Rome like this. They spend better their eu money than our Belgian, Flemish, Walloon, Brussels, ...politicians in bxl.( oops, need to stop thinking to this mess, I have a fantastic holiday).
After tree attempts, I was clean to enter the place in front of the marvelous square in front of the duomo:My bike and my knife where very suspicious . Rome is like a village in war: police, army everywhere, guns ready to use.
I had a quick visit of piazza Navona ( too early for a tartufo- all bars still closed), Trevi fountain -nobody to kiss-, so tI went on, via the circus massimo up on the Via Appia antica: along the road, most of the times still with original pavement , you find the catacombes, vila's ( ruined from 2000 year ago and also new from the current senators, statues, roman mtb's who try to kick you on the bubbling road - but I am bigger! This way I learn the Italian slang.
Then, I had to choose: back into the mountains and reach the sea tomorow or go further down directly to the sea. I took the first one and added another climbing 1200 meters. Via the lago Albano, another steep climb to an old crater, and where I made an old roman happy to listen to his life story during my lunch, I reached end station Cori. A cute village here in the hills below Roma. I am now chatting on the market square with the pensionates of the village so I get used to it for when I come and live in Italy. I am strongly recommended not to disturb the "capo del hotel "when he is playing cards. So, don't know yet if I have a bed to sleep tonight,
Buona notte,
B
After a having slept in a nice hotel with good diner ( tried Lombata di vitello), I started they day with 2 flat tires.the first already when I jumped on the bike, the second when I was going down a path of 2000 year old that hasn't been used for years I guess. The francigena after Rome becomes more challenging: first of all, the signaling is in the opposite direction to Rome while it should be to Brindisi and then going on to Jerusalem. Second, I already got lost few times because the path didn't continue or was overwhelmed by plants. Probably, I have a flat tire now from the cactus that grow over the road.
I was using my last tires and co2 bombs so I decided to play it safe and leave the mountains to the open plane so I could reach the coast as soon as possible for what was announced as the hottest day of the week(38 in Roma). All flat,( the vegetable garden of Rome and Napoli) and just the hills on my left.
When I stopped at a bar and a shop in the middle of nowhere, where a man was having a napolitan discussion with the local police officer. It becomes more difficult to understand the Napolitan dialect. On the other hand, they ask me now from where in Italy I am coming!
I stopped in Terracina at the sea site, found a bike shop where my horse received oil on all the peeping places, and I had a fantastic fettuccine casserecce ai porcini di Asiago! Never had such good porcini, impossible to find on the market in Milano.
To keep it fresh, I avoided again the mountains and followed the via Pavia along the coast. Not so nice with all the cars, but I got in the end 100km closer to my destination.
I found finally a sleeping place in a church where I sleep under the clock tower.
I hope they don't work all night long.
Tomorow, I am heading in the direction of Caserta, to start my journey from west to east Italy,
B.
Today was the day of the big milestones: I passed the 1000km and the 10.000meter climbing! I also left Lazio and entered in Campania. The last region before I enter Puglia. The most striking difference here is the language: not the beautiful sound of the northern Italian but very short, rough, like they shout at each other. And I hardly can understand a word of it.
Today was almost all flat so I could again make some progress in distance(110km) today. Having a siesta during lunch seems the best strategy. I enjoy the morning fresh, my body can recover and I can still do quite a piece in the afternoon, even when hot.
First I passed through an area , a labyrinth of rocky roads through fields and bushes, by luck I have gps because no signs of Franchigia or GR at all. And the few I saw were even wrong, probably just publicity. Even with gps, I sometimes got out of track so you need to be very attentive.
I passed lots of apple fields, millions of peaches, very tasty grapes and luckily only a small fire. I also passed trough the nice Capua.
I was in good condition so I went on, over Caserta but during the entrance of the valley it started climbing and got a hit of the hammer. I saw a nice place to stay and I tried to sleep there, 10km before my final stage.
Also this was again an napolitan experience. To make it short, I had to talk to the whole family, even in Milano and Napoli but finally I got a room - I am the only guest- and now the aromas of the diner they are preparing for me, are making me high! Local fresh mozzarella ( speciality of the regione)and all the rest you can only dream of. PS : location is recommended to sleep! http://anticacorte-restaurant.com/contattaci.html
I am here in pole position for the climb over the Appeninni tomorow. Already at 300 meter so I should be over the pass and in Puglia tomorow!
Hope I have strong legs tomorow,
B.
Under a roasting sun, I arrived in Faeto, the highest village of Puglia! This morning, after breakfast in Montesarchio, I was presented a few hard climbs. I immedialtly went up to 600 meter on very steep roads.
Instead of meeting pelgrims on the road early morning, I met now lots of Africans, on a bike going to work. Italy seems to do quite a good job to integrate all these refugees.
In the descent, I noticed a problem with my break in the rear: it was not working anymore and going down became very dangerous, and I still had to pass the upcoming hills. Luckily, next town was Buonvento, and according to google, there were some bycicle shops. Now hoping to find one that knows something of hydraulic breaks. The fist shop was a shop for fishing, the second didn 't exist so only option was to stop someone on a race bike. He send me to Gilardi who found that there was air in the oil channel. After 2 hours and a visit of the beautiful center, I could continue my trip safe again. The rest of the road was less hard than expected. The mountains are more gentle than the passo della Cisa so I could enjoy the open landscape, although there were still some fires. quite limited, by luck!
I started to look for a place to sleep. The stop place from the via Franchigena was a dead village without any sign of life. With the help of the local, very well organized and free tourist system - they call it here a bar, half the male village helpt me to find a sleeping place. In the end still 12Km to go but having the forecast of a shower, a beer and a dinner, I got wings again. When I arrived, the new bar community was still trying to send me to the next vilage. In the end , I could convince the bar keeper to open a room in his b&b.
Now I have a room with view over the whole valey of Puglia. The light is wonderful here after the sunset.
Tomorow, I start with the descent and will provably arrive close to Bari. If I can go on like this, I will be able to visit Lecce and Sante Maria di Leuca, the most southern point in the heel of Italy, recommended place by all Italians I met.
Ciao,
B,
Today was a day of big contrasts:
In the morning, a room with a view over whole Puglia, now , a room without Windows under the ground. Mountains from the morning are also left behind and not visible anymore and allong the streets here, full of dirt, burned plastic, broken glass The tranquility of the villages in the mountains versus walking in Cerignola from piazza to piazza is like zapping from RAI1 to RAI2 and RAI3 with volume of TV above the level the speakers can handle: wheel of furtune, would be singers,drumbands, all that can make noice came here together. But don't worry, the food is getting even better, puglians are more helpfull and nice.
Also dogs are not chained here anymore like in North Italy. You always need to keep some extra power to start a sprint when a group of barkling agressors run behind you. I never know if it is just for their fun on a boring day or if they are protecting their land : I always go for the last one and start a race to stay in front of the dog. Usually , they give up after 500meter.
This evening , I had diner with a pre-pensionated couple from Belgium: both with a quite heavy koga - courageous, I would recommend a MTB here -, going in the reverse direction. They already did Belgium - Santiago and some other +2000km trips. Was nice exchanging idea's. Last but not least, my bike was again in repair. After a few days, I localized the enervating peeping was coming from the front break. Since I got nuts from it, I went to another shop and after few hours and a gigantic pasta con Ricciola I could move on. However, for a next similar trip, either I will do a full maintenance of the bike or buy a new one.
Tomorow, I will follow what is said to be the most beautiful coast of Italy,
Promising,
B.
The start of the trip went nice. Olive trees and grapes everywhere. Nice and calm, some off-road where you get lost from time to time but still ok. However, once arrived at the sea, the quite cycling is over. You need to do everything to avoid the SS16, an express way with lots of tragic . The path along the coast is either non existing, disappeared and what is left impossible for a MTB.
Quite a disapppinting contrast with the previous 2 weeks. Also the sea is not what was promised:the farmland stops with a border of stones and plenty of dirt and then the water. Wonder of they ever have waves of more than 1 meter. Nothing can stop it.
20 km before Bari , I wanted to stop but all was full. So, only option was to move on try something in Bari.
Entering Bari was another battle against the car.
Bari is build in 3 concentric circles. The middle, old historical center - very nice by the way- which is a chaos of small streets in which they build a cathedral and a basilica..
Outside that inner circle is the second layer, build like New York : all horizontal and vertical roads . And then the 3rd layer is designed by an urbanist who probably was frustrated that he could not enter with his car in the historical center. So he build a network of express roads, as chaotic as the old town, but where a bicycle or pedestrian cannot get through. Mission completed!
In the end I found a way through and arrived at a place still offered by the via francigena. These non's close the door at 9pm, this is the time the restaurants start to open here. So I friendly thanked them for their hospitality and booking.com found a nice hotel for me.
An octopus salad and a pasta con seppie made my day and with half a liter of wine, I was ziggyzaggy walking to my bed.
Viva Italia
B.
It's raining! Not a lot but for the first time in my 16 days till now, temperature will go below 30 in the afternoon and also next week. Refreshing good news.
Below Bari, the sea is already showing more of its beauty. Certainly Monopoli and Polignano are probably marked as "Vaux le voyage" in the green Michele guide. This last village is build upon a cliff at the border of the sea and is a excellent place for sky jumping in the cristal blue water.
The express roads are still annoying me and I turned more inside the landside in the olive field of Puglia: magnificent olive trees of a few hundreds of years old I guess in all kind of shapes. Some have a diameter of 2 meters! I even found an marked cycling path through these fields.
Since I am now close to Brindisi, one of my targets and since I still have some days left, I go on to the very south. Tomorow to Lecce and day after to Santa Maria de Leuca.
I plan to take the night train Thursday evening from Lecce to Milano. Just need to find a solution to get my bike on these trains.
Time to visit Ostuni, the "white city of Puglia" and for a beer,
B.
